Ozone Reactors, the definitive list?
- Thread starter rayray
- Start date
Hello,
I have only used ozone once years ago on a FOWLR system i had but plan on using with this build. If i may ask what makes these better than the one's we get here in the states? Also what tank size do they do up to or is it one size works for all? What size are they? I am not very up on ozone something i will be learning/relearning for my DT.
Would you use ozone during a tank cycle would it be a plus or minus?
Thank You,
I have only used ozone once years ago on a FOWLR system i had but plan on using with this build. If i may ask what makes these better than the one's we get here in the states? Also what tank size do they do up to or is it one size works for all? What size are they? I am not very up on ozone something i will be learning/relearning for my DT.
Would you use ozone during a tank cycle would it be a plus or minus?
Thank You,
Spinner,
in this thread ive listed every brand of ozone reactor that i could find. I like the reactors that come with biobale and not the bioballs, because I feel that allows for more contact surface and time between the tank water and the ozone (in both both free gas and dissolved gas forms). Essentially, they are all trickle down filters with a little bit of ozone/air pressure. I dont think this brand is any better than the others with biobale. It is the brand favored by Chingchai of Reef Central fame, who has a huge high end SPS setup where no expense was spared, so thats why it caught our attention. Anyhow, in case youre thinking of making your own, an ozone reactor has to withstand the strong oxidating power of O3, the acrylic has to be high quality, and all associated rubber seals, check valves and plastic/PVC tubing. I found it helpful that this brand includes an attached chamber for carbon to scrub O3 from the air vent. But as I stated before, many reefers dont even bother with filtering the gas O3 if the reactor is in the garage or away from people. If the ozone vents into the stand of a tank inside the house, this carbon scrubber is a must for health safety. You will have to use a carbon filter to scrub ozone from the water output of any ozone reactor or the O3 concentration in the DT can get dangerously high.
I think this O3 reactor is 20 inches tall and 4-6 inches in diameter. If its like the others, it requires 400-600 gph pump for input tank water, and a pressurized air pump to drive room air into an air drier -> ozone generator -> reaction chamber. So it should be good for even monster tanks. If the tank is large, the tank water flow rate can be increased and the ozone generator cranked up to increase ozone output. i use the ozotech poseidon which can generate 200mg/hr on my 180g tank, and I only have it cranked up 20-30% at a flow of 300 gph to keep ORP at 400 easily.
now whether or not ozone should be used during the intial nitrogen cycling of a reef tank Im not sure, but im thinking it should not be used for 2 reasons. first, as NH3 --> NO2 --> NO3 nitrogen is getting oxidize. exposure of ammonia & nitrite to O3 would lead to their oxidation by ozone to the next more oxidized species, but we want them to be oxidized by bacteria so the different species of bacteria can progress to build up nitrate. in other words it would be prolonged like when you do water changes during cycling. secondly, stray ozone, or ORP thats too high might directly kill the bacteria or anaerobes? like I said Im not sure, but this is essentially the same reason I dont protein fractionate/skim during initial tank cycling.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ozonefaqs.htm
so... if we can lower the price of shipping on these bad boys, are you in?
in this thread ive listed every brand of ozone reactor that i could find. I like the reactors that come with biobale and not the bioballs, because I feel that allows for more contact surface and time between the tank water and the ozone (in both both free gas and dissolved gas forms). Essentially, they are all trickle down filters with a little bit of ozone/air pressure. I dont think this brand is any better than the others with biobale. It is the brand favored by Chingchai of Reef Central fame, who has a huge high end SPS setup where no expense was spared, so thats why it caught our attention. Anyhow, in case youre thinking of making your own, an ozone reactor has to withstand the strong oxidating power of O3, the acrylic has to be high quality, and all associated rubber seals, check valves and plastic/PVC tubing. I found it helpful that this brand includes an attached chamber for carbon to scrub O3 from the air vent. But as I stated before, many reefers dont even bother with filtering the gas O3 if the reactor is in the garage or away from people. If the ozone vents into the stand of a tank inside the house, this carbon scrubber is a must for health safety. You will have to use a carbon filter to scrub ozone from the water output of any ozone reactor or the O3 concentration in the DT can get dangerously high.
I think this O3 reactor is 20 inches tall and 4-6 inches in diameter. If its like the others, it requires 400-600 gph pump for input tank water, and a pressurized air pump to drive room air into an air drier -> ozone generator -> reaction chamber. So it should be good for even monster tanks. If the tank is large, the tank water flow rate can be increased and the ozone generator cranked up to increase ozone output. i use the ozotech poseidon which can generate 200mg/hr on my 180g tank, and I only have it cranked up 20-30% at a flow of 300 gph to keep ORP at 400 easily.
now whether or not ozone should be used during the intial nitrogen cycling of a reef tank Im not sure, but im thinking it should not be used for 2 reasons. first, as NH3 --> NO2 --> NO3 nitrogen is getting oxidize. exposure of ammonia & nitrite to O3 would lead to their oxidation by ozone to the next more oxidized species, but we want them to be oxidized by bacteria so the different species of bacteria can progress to build up nitrate. in other words it would be prolonged like when you do water changes during cycling. secondly, stray ozone, or ORP thats too high might directly kill the bacteria or anaerobes? like I said Im not sure, but this is essentially the same reason I dont protein fractionate/skim during initial tank cycling.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ozonefaqs.htm
so... if we can lower the price of shipping on these bad boys, are you in?
RayRay,
Why are you wanting to switch? I ask because your 10 year old technology looks the same and the build quality of made in the USA is for sure superior than the units you are researching?
I have the same set up and was just about to put online, why upgrade?
Any tips would be helpful as I have never run ozone before.
Why are you wanting to switch? I ask because your 10 year old technology looks the same and the build quality of made in the USA is for sure superior than the units you are researching?
I have the same set up and was just about to put online, why upgrade?
Any tips would be helpful as I have never run ozone before.
