LED color preference

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#1
Hey peeps.

I am curious as to what the DIY guys n gals prefer in terms of LED color. Even those of you who have ready made LED fixtures. What color and nm are important to you?

For me I like a mix of 400nm 420nm 455nm for blues, 6500k for white and a few 620 reds.

I know a lot of you will use green, cyan etc. and I would love to hear your feedback and thoughts.
 

Six2seven

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#3
I have:
Blue
Royal blue
Cyan
Green
Red (only 3)
Uv violet
Violet
Cool white
Warm white.

Building a fixture now I would add more violet, and not add the warm whites.

FYI you only get the disco effect if the LEDs are spaced out. All need to be very compact to get a good color
 
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#4
I have:
Blue
Royal blue
Cyan
Green
Red (only 3)
Uv violet
Violet
Cool white
Warm white.

Building a fixture now I would add more violet, and not add the warm whites.

FYI you only get the disco effect if the LEDs are spaced out. All need to be very compact to get a good color
so when you say UV you mean 390nm and UVviolet you mean like 410 or so?
 

Six2seven

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#5
Don't remember what the nm is. Cree sells the uv violet and Steve's LEDs has the violet. The UVs are dim probably has a different nm that we can't really see and the violet is pretty much a purple light. I like the way it looks not for what it does
 
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#9
My fav setup WITH T5s (that's really important to note that) has been:
Royal blue (445-450nm)
Blue (470-480nm)
5000k
420nm violet.
Never saw any benefit from cyan, green, or red. Not saying they don't work, just didn't see a benefit in my setup. Also u get a higher chance of disco ball affect with cyan/green/red LEDs.

Also those are all Phillips luxeon LEDs from Steve's LEDs. I know different brands and bins from different vendors can look a lot different. Saying royal blue Cree from rapid led might get u a different color then say a royal blue bridgelux from aquastyle LEDs.

Those LEDs mixed with ATI blue + and ATI coral + has gotten me some pretty nice color out of zoos/palys, chalices, favias, euphillias, acans, montis, and acros.
 
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#10
My fav setup WITH T5s (that's really important to note that) has been:
Royal blue (445-450nm)
Blue (470-480nm)
5000k
420nm violet.
Never saw any benefit from cyan, green, or red. Not saying they don't work, just didn't see a benefit in my setup. Also u get a higher chance of disco ball affect with cyan/green/red LEDs.

Also those are all Phillips luxeon LEDs from Steve's LEDs. I know different brands and bins from different vendors can look a lot different. Saying royal blue Cree from rapid led might get u a different color then say a royal blue bridgelux from aquastyle LEDs.

Those LEDs mixed with ATI blue + and ATI coral + has gotten me some pretty nice color out of zoos/palys, chalices, favias, euphillias, acans, montis, and acros.
so you think in conjunction with your T5s you need nothing other than blue and white basically? I am assuming you only run all together for a shorter period of time. Aesthetically you like the look with that combo when the T5s are off and just the LEDs are on?
 
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#13
so you think in conjunction with your T5s you need nothing other than blue and white basically?
. Yep. I did have it setup with just royal blues and whites and did not like the look. After I added the normal blues, it looked a lot crisper, and got rid of that purple hue the royal blues give off. Obviously the violet/420 are unnoticeable in the mix of things. T5s are proven to grow corals and get awesome colors. Why would u need to add reds and greens and cyan if u already have the correct wavelengths from your t5 bulbs??? At least that's my thinking. As long as you are happy with how the tank looks when the t5s turn off, and I accomplish that by cranking the whites up and down as the t5s turn on and off. When t5s are on, turn the whites down/off. when t5s are off, crank the whites back up until the color looks good to your eye. No need to worry about correct wavelengths, the corals just got that from the hours when u were running t5s. I don't know if that's the right way to look at it, but it works for me.


I am assuming you only run all together for a shorter period of time.
Correct. That is, IMO, the perks of t5/led hybrid. U don't need to run t5s all day. Let the more efficient LEDs do the grunt work, and your hotter more expensive t5 bulbs only run at peak hours.
On my current setup, I have 6-80w t5s on 3 separate ballasts. So in the morning and at night, I let the LEDs run by them selves for a few hours. Then kick on 1 ballast at a time in the am and reverse it in the PM. I think on my current setup, I have all t5s and all LEDs on only for 3 hours.

Aesthetically you like the look with that combo when the T5s are off and just the LEDs are on?
Yes. if the LEDs are dimmable, and on a controller (apex, arduino, etc), u can adjust the color when the t5s are on and off. Typically with my setup, when the t5s are on, the tank is whiter. So turn the white LEDs off. But obviously that will be too blue when the t5s kick off.
 
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#15
I ran cool whites and royal blue and was very happy then I switch to Neutral whites and regret it. I prefer Cool Whites, Royal Blue and UV 410nm. You can also throw in a couple blue and go with 660nm red but I didn't see a real benefit with 660 red and cyan
 
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