To UV sterilize, or not?

I've never ran one myself, mostly to keep from killing of my pod population. I'm planning my plumbing out and have been going back and forth as to whether a uv sterilizer would be worth the investment, and cost of up keep.

All fish are getting quarantined prior to going in this system, I'm sick of that biting me in the ***. But I know ich can come in on coral as well. So how affective are they really? When they claim to help with algae blooms, we talking green film algae? Could it help with the dinoflagellet outbreaks I always seem to encounter with a new system?

I run them on my systems and think if properly sized with the right amount of flow they do have benefits, problem is most under size and have too much flow. I can say less algae, clearer water, and ick does not seem to spread as much in my tanks. I still have good pod population and algae does take hold in certain spots, that is what a Clean up Crew is for. I suggest Emperor Aquatics or at least using there size guidelines which you can find on BRS website. I run a 80 watt high output single bulb unit on my 600 and a 25 watt high output on my 90 gallon. My new build for my office I ordered one as well on Black Friday special. The bulbs do have to be changed once a year so they do add cost on top of the electricity. I do not have the best quarantine regimen in fact my quarantine consists of mostly just putting fish in my 90 and watching them for a couple months before I move them into the large system and I have no sign of ick in my tank including my Orange Shoulder Anacanthus Tang. In my opinion my UV does help and is worth the added cost.

Matt,
It is help when bacteria and algae are in free flow. Cant really treat anything that attached to the fish. Quarantee fish is recommended but also improve their immune systems. Most the sickness came from stress and poor immune system and ofcourse water parameter . I do see ich sometime on healthy fish but with good immune, they will heal naturally.

It will help will algae blooms. A while back I was holding all my fish in a temporary tank without a skimmer and heavy feedings. After a week or two water started turning green. After uv was set up, water cleared up within a couple of days.

I bought a Teco chiller from Jesse and I added the UV kit to it. I saw clearer water and the algae didn't grow on the glass as fast.

Thanks guys. I'll add another gate to the manifold so I can add one once I can fund it
Seems like the Emperor Aquatics are the way to go. Great reviews, big price tag compared to others though

first lets see pics of the plumbing! I wanna do a manifold myself to cut down on all types of diff pumps. I run uv and love it. It will kill mostly all free floating anything from algae to parasites as well as keeping your water crystal clear. I have never seen much of a problem with pod population decreaseeither.

I'm still just planning, but I'm also shooting for only one pump in the sump. I plan to run my CaRx, future Turbo ATS, Uv & Carbon reactor off my manifold. Ordered a gate valve for each and I plan to use all sch 80 pvc.

Wow sounds so great, not to mention the reduced heat and energy cost. I always wondered where do you order your manifold from? Also how in the world do you evaluate how big of a pump you need for all the things you will run off it and then know what your tanks overflow can take.

I ordered all my schedule 80 parts from BRS during the sale. I'm not sure if there is a supplier for manifolds. Usually it's a series of pvc "T" fittings plumbed together with a gate or ball valve on the bottom of the "T". From there you just plumb it to your individual unit/device. I'll post a picture of mine later.

Each item I'm plumbing in has a suggested flow rate - minus the calcium reactor but that's very little. So its just a matter of deciding on the displays desired turnover rate in addition to all the other suggested flow rates of the other units. Youll also need to account for your head loss. Then picking a pump that can handle the total gph. I'm hoping the pump I have on hand can handle it.

That's a good idea maybe I'll plug it into my apex and have it run part time.


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Matt,
Turnover and flow rate is important in UV system. Low flow kill bacteria, and high flow for algae per instruction which I don't get it because
I have 80W Emperor Aquatic with low flow rate which bacteria & algae have long contact with light in my 1500 gallon pond and only turn on about 4-6 hr/day in summer to get clear water. I don't think it need to run long period of time for it (energy saver) unless you have huge tank.

Thanks NVTE. Sounds like a slower flow is the way to go then. Good to know in don't need to run it 24/7, might get a little more life from the bulb.

You would best be served plumbing the UV into a bypass, run 2 T's with water pointing strait through for your main return, put a valve in between the same 2 T's that input and output your reactor. If you leave valve open all the flow goes strait through. As you close valve it bypasses the water through the reactor. This is the best way to reduce flows for chillers and UV filters that are plumbed off your return. These items would not be off your manifold. Also try and place the UV reactor in such a way that you will be able to slide the bulb out for service so it clears everything. The beauty of a bypass is you reduce flow for specific items, but still utilize the same flow to your return output. If I confused you, you are welcome to stop by and check out my system and I will show you.

I had my UV front and center, easy to swab, easy to bulb change. It was on its own circuit from the sump, 100-200 gph, then to ozone reactor, then GAC.

Great idea & thank you. Took me a second, but I get the concept. Valve restricts the main drain forcing water to travel through the t before it, bypassing through the uv - back through the second t to meet up with the main return again. That's a great idea for anything free flowing. I'm almost tempted to place my GAC reactor after it, but would rather be able to see if that gets clogged or slows.

That's nice and clean. What type of UV are you running and how do you like it?

I run it on the output of my return after the manifold not on the drain. Hard to explain, but easy once you understand how the Bypass works. From the pump I go through 4 Ts that are the manifold I then have a gate valve on the main return right after manifold as this allows you to build some pressure to push things through manifold so they do not free flow. After this it is heading to my returns and this is where you put the Bypass.

I like to use Street T's for the manifold as they allow you to plumb your valves closer together. supplyhouse.com has quick shipping and carries 4 fittings I like to have on hand when plumbing a tank. They have Street T, Sweep 90's, Street 45, and street 22.5 Spears fittings. They do not offer all these fittings in Grey schedule 80, but schedule 40 is plenty strong and flows more than schedule 80. I got caught up in grey fittings on my first build and realized it is way cheaper to go schedule 40 white fittings and plenty strong. I did just buy some red pipe from BRS to go on my new office build in keeping with the red white bubble king look that the tank has.

Here are links to the fittings that help me keep things clean and efficient when plumbing in all these accessories to run one pump for everything.

Street T awesome for building manifolds!
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-444-015-1-1-2-PVC-Sch-40-Street-Tee-Spigot-x-Socket-x-Socket

Sweep bends, 1/4th the head of a standard 90 fitting added for more efficiency when changing direction.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-406-010S-1-PVC-Sch-40-90-Sweep-Elbow

Street 45 able to make things tight and close when out of room.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-427-010-1-PVC-Sch-40-45-Street-Elbow

Street 22.5 a few of these can jog around a tight spot or get you out of a bind I like the street and standard ones.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-442-010-1-PVC-Sch-40-22-5-Street-Elbow
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-416-010-1-PVC-Sch-40-22-5-Elbow

These are the best quality PVC fittings that I have found and all you will not find in a local plumbing store, Marine Depot and BRS should take note and carry these fittings because they will help you plumb your tank like a pro or like me

I just picked one up , Emperor Aquatics Smart UV LITE 25 Watt. Would it be ok to plumb the output back to return area of sump?