Is 1/2" plumbing too small for a missing station?

Zoarder · Mar 2, 2016

Jhuneke said:

so kinda what I said

lol

Jhuneke · Mar 2, 2016

Lmao.. I knew you'd chime right in at this!...

exactly .. Except I'll drill mine lower for Gravity fill jugs ..

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Zoarder · Mar 2, 2016

Jhuneke said:

Glad I can be of service I might be a noob but I know a thing or two haha jk but yeah still a noob hehe

805reef · Mar 3, 2016

so, what did you do? let's see it

Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

I had a conniption fit..

.. honestly I had a conniption fit

Long story short the guy I bought the barrels from showed up with one of the barrels being defective and having a bit of a weak spot, he said he would come back with another barrel the following day and also drill both of them and install bulkheads. Well dude never showed back up after two days quit returning calls or texts and that was a week ago. So rather than jump through hoops , I found a guy here in town who has the white foodgrade barrels that aren't rounded at the bottom. So anyway I will be picking up and plumbing the white barrels tonight . Going with 1 inch plumbing since I already have all the pieces , except the uniseals, which are due this afternoon. If they don't show up I will go ahead and use the three-quarter inch plumbing that he provides and usually sells the barrels with and just go exchange my 1 inch junk.

So here is the final mock up.. And a diagram ( lmao.. Ok it's chicken scratch.. I'm impatient lol) of what I will add later when I join the barrels w an external pump ..

I decided to go with the Tee right off the barrel to save space in front, since it's in kinda a cramped spot in the garage. By doing it like this ( instead of a straight line Union/ Tee/Ball valve/ elbow ) I was able to cut the forward encroachment by half, from 15 to only 7"..

Any input???

aside from "DO IT!!!' ?...

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805reef · Mar 3, 2016

Looks like a good plan to me!

I did similar, with the tee's right off the container to save space in the front. I thought I had a better pic of the plumbing but I don't on me.

805reef · Mar 3, 2016

Instead of plumbing the caps, why don't you just plumb with the ball valves instead and the tee that will eventually go to the pump. that way when you get a pump all you have to do is connect to the pump and your all set.

Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

Cool

thanks! On your pic I wondered if the weight of plumbing bows the barrel? Any issue w that? I'm kinda nervous about that since I am using a uniseal instead of bulkhead.
Plus I hafta really man handle the ball valves! They are stupid stiff! I have sch 40 since I can't get the 80 at my lowes or hd etc :/

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Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

805reef said:

Good thought.. I prob will .. But I only bought 2 when I went to lowes.. I'll see if I can squeeze in a FOURTH trip there .. Its ridiculous how I fly by the seat of my pants!

Truer words were never spoken! Also true of mixing stations IME lol

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805reef · Mar 3, 2016

Jhuneke said:

It seemed sturdy with the weight, but in the picture you can see the white string that I tied to the 2x4 which is my attempt to help relive the strain on the bulkheads.

When I setup my first tank, home depot was like 4 miles away. not bad but when you have to take 3-4 trips in a day it sucks. since then they opened a lowes that is less than a mile away! still make the 3-4 trips in a day for some projects but its not as bad as before.

edit: also, I used to return pvc fittings that I didn't use. I don't do that anymore. just keep them all somewhere together and eventually you will need it.

Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

I'll prob hafta do something similar , maybe from below w a 2x4 and to prop it up. I just hope messing with the ball valves isn't gonna put too much torque on it for the uniseal . Never used them before .

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805reef · Mar 3, 2016

Jhuneke said:

on my old water station I used 3/4" with a uniseal on a brute trash can. never had any problems. You can also just put one hand under the ball valve to hold it still while the other hand turns the handle.

Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

On a side question..

Is there any reason I can't go from 1" outer plumbing ( the stuff I have done ) and switch to 3/4" for the stuff coming up from pump into barrels ( to transfer from one barrel to other?
I ask because I only got two 1" uniseals on hand.. But the barrel guy has a bunch of 3/4" and can add those up top for me tonight . It just means I'd hafta switch to 3/4" somewhere after the middle front .either before or after the pump..

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Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

805reef said:

I might have defective valves.. They are like twice as difficult to turn as any I've ever used. I guess I could go test drive some at HD in case mine are cheaper quality or something. They're American Valve.. All lowes had in stock .

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Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

Guess I'd only need a uniseal on the top off the salt barrel , right? Not needed on the rodi side .. Assuming I just open up the correct valves to pull from rodi tank into the external pump up into sw barrel .. Am I close? Lol

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805reef · Mar 3, 2016

Jhuneke said:

No reason at all. Just get a a bushing or a reducing coupling and you'll be all set. Do you know which pump you are going to use? Most pumps have larger inlets and smaller outlets.

Jhuneke said:

The hd/lowes valves can be pretty stiff at first. Just keep playing with them and eventually they'll get easier.

Jhuneke said:

I use a uniseal at the top. You honestly don't even need that, it could just be a hole since it doesn't need to be water tight, but a uniseal looks cleaner

Jhuneke · Mar 3, 2016

Thank you

.. I'm not sure what pump I will end up with. I'm sure I'll pick something up here on the forum. Is there one u would suggest .. Considering I'll be moving the water maybe 50 ft to my tank from the garage?

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Is 1/2" plumbing too small for a missing station?

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