Bean's 300 Gallon AGE Build
- Thread starter BeanMachine
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I am building a 300 (eventually) and I will be running two returns for redundancy. Having two returns isn't the issue with a quiet overflow, it is running a manifold from one of the returns. Each time you adjust the flow to an item on the manifold, the pressure in the manifold changes and then more or less water is being delivered to the tank, and therefore the drain that was adjusted is now out of adjustment.
Think about it as if you were regularly adjusting your return pump, you would have to regularly adjust your drains, well, with a manifold, when you tweak something on the manifold, you tweak the return flow.
Still, it may not be a big issue, because you dont change the manifold items that often (changing reactor media for example). I was just saying I like the idea better of dedicated return pump(s) and a dedicated manifold pump for that reason.
When my L1 died, it made me even more certain that I want two return pumps so that the system will never be "down" due to the malfunction of one.
Personally, I'd get an couple of L1s. The price is WAY better than RD or Abyzz, and the service is great, and if one of them craps out, you have that redundancy. If you were dead set on a SINGLE return pump, then I'd get an RD3 and ball-out.
I cant wait to see your build come to life!
Think about it as if you were regularly adjusting your return pump, you would have to regularly adjust your drains, well, with a manifold, when you tweak something on the manifold, you tweak the return flow.
Still, it may not be a big issue, because you dont change the manifold items that often (changing reactor media for example). I was just saying I like the idea better of dedicated return pump(s) and a dedicated manifold pump for that reason.
When my L1 died, it made me even more certain that I want two return pumps so that the system will never be "down" due to the malfunction of one.
Personally, I'd get an couple of L1s. The price is WAY better than RD or Abyzz, and the service is great, and if one of them craps out, you have that redundancy. If you were dead set on a SINGLE return pump, then I'd get an RD3 and ball-out.
I cant wait to see your build come to life!
Thanks. I'd have to go with 3 pumps then in that scenario, 2 for returns and 1 for the manifold? I definitely don't want to do that. I did play around with some of the manifold plumbing... and 1.25" is way too big for my liking. I think I will plumb just the manifold and refugium feed with 1".
I can either use a wye and reduce the manifold leg from 1.25" to 1", or just run the manifold and fuge on the M1... and run the 3 Sea Swirl returns on the L1. I can't freaking decide!
I can either use a wye and reduce the manifold leg from 1.25" to 1", or just run the manifold and fuge on the M1... and run the 3 Sea Swirl returns on the L1. I can't freaking decide!
Most likely yes. For that and a UV, thinking may be best to run separate pumps for those if I do end up using either. UV due to the specific flow rate, and the chiller only because it would only be hooked up a few months out of the year. I guess it depends what ends up on my manifold.
I can run fans over the top of the tank, but can't in the sump area because the sump is completely sealed with lids. Unless I incorporated some kind of blower fan to enter and exit the sump itself... not sure if I've seen anyone do that before or if it would be worth it.
I can run fans over the top of the tank, but can't in the sump area because the sump is completely sealed with lids. Unless I incorporated some kind of blower fan to enter and exit the sump itself... not sure if I've seen anyone do that before or if it would be worth it.
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I'd say plumb the chiller now, rather than later. The manifold is great for keeping the sump looking clean but, typically the items run off the manifold are going to be low flow, none essential equipment. Why bother adding those to a big pump(heat/elec) when you can run them with a little Maxijet or small Mag drive pump?
Sorry, I wasn't clear.
In my experience, I would rather the pumps(L1,M1,RD3) power the returns than tee off. I didn't really find the value in having things tee of the flow from the main tank. Even with a decent pump you are going to lose quite a bit of pressure going off to run the reactors, fuge, cal react, not to mention the 90s or 45 angle turns in plumbing to accommodate all that. I guess if the pump is oversized it should be okay but, I just found it easier to tee off an independent pump like a Maxi or Mag rather than the main return.
I do think it would be a good idea to get the chiller plumbed in now with a main return through it. You dont want to have to add an independent pump to get the right GPH to effectively use the chiller later. Consider where the water returns from the chiller as well. I feel its best if the water from the chiller hits the tank 1st, not the sump. I know this contradicts the previous statement but, I think a chiller should be considered vital equipment. And if you end up not using it well, then it ends up not turning on and your golden.
Hope that makes sense. It did in my head.:a24:
In my experience, I would rather the pumps(L1,M1,RD3) power the returns than tee off. I didn't really find the value in having things tee of the flow from the main tank. Even with a decent pump you are going to lose quite a bit of pressure going off to run the reactors, fuge, cal react, not to mention the 90s or 45 angle turns in plumbing to accommodate all that. I guess if the pump is oversized it should be okay but, I just found it easier to tee off an independent pump like a Maxi or Mag rather than the main return.
I do think it would be a good idea to get the chiller plumbed in now with a main return through it. You dont want to have to add an independent pump to get the right GPH to effectively use the chiller later. Consider where the water returns from the chiller as well. I feel its best if the water from the chiller hits the tank 1st, not the sump. I know this contradicts the previous statement but, I think a chiller should be considered vital equipment. And if you end up not using it well, then it ends up not turning on and your golden.
Hope that makes sense. It did in my head.:a24:
What kind of lighting are you going to be running again? And will it be in a canopy? How far from the water?
Unless you're some kind of masochist and aren't planning to run your AC in the summer, I wouldn't go out of my way to make huge changes to my plumbing just for a chiller you may not even use. I have a T on my manifold for a chiller, don't get me wrong. But if your current plumbing plan works, I wouldn't make huge changes just for a chiller.
I ran an 8 bulb ATI LED Powermodule INSIDE a canopy during the summer with the AC on and the temp never went over 79.
Unless you're some kind of masochist and aren't planning to run your AC in the summer, I wouldn't go out of my way to make huge changes to my plumbing just for a chiller you may not even use. I have a T on my manifold for a chiller, don't get me wrong. But if your current plumbing plan works, I wouldn't make huge changes just for a chiller.
I ran an 8 bulb ATI LED Powermodule INSIDE a canopy during the summer with the AC on and the temp never went over 79.
Something like this?
Oh BTW Nice Build!!! I'm jealous
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I have a 60" ATI LED Powermodule. I want a thin floating canopy... maybe 12" tall... open top otherwise. Not totally sure how high off the water, but say about a foot.
Thanks Kenny. I will put a union at first, as I won't need the chiller for sure by this summer. Then next year, I can replumb just that small portion to resemble my latest plan. It wouldn't be difficult to do.
I have a 60" ATI LED Powermodule. I want a thin floating canopy... maybe 12" tall... open top otherwise. Not totally sure how high off the water, but say about a foot.
Thanks Kenny. I will put a union at first, as I won't need the chiller for sure by this summer. Then next year, I can replumb just that small portion to resemble my latest plan. It wouldn't be difficult to do.
I love that! ^^^ I better get the biggest pump I can fit under the tank.
My tank is sort of in the middle of the room its in. It needs to be pushed back about a foot and a half to its final resting spot.
So I've got a question for you all, would you fill the tank and sump with RODI, run it in its current place, to check for any leaks first? Then empty the tank and sump? Move it, then refill?
Its going to take several guys to move the tank and stand, so I'd rather move it once.
My tank is sort of in the middle of the room its in. It needs to be pushed back about a foot and a half to its final resting spot.
So I've got a question for you all, would you fill the tank and sump with RODI, run it in its current place, to check for any leaks first? Then empty the tank and sump? Move it, then refill?
Its going to take several guys to move the tank and stand, so I'd rather move it once.
Back from the dead!
For those that have used Starboard for the tank bottom (under the rocks and sand), would that be necessary for me given my tank has a PVC bottom?
Would you still install the starboard?
Next for the rock structures- For the rods, I plan to use 3/4" or 1" pvc pipe. Would acrylic rod of the same diameter be better, or would that be overkill? I mean I like overkill but...
I hope to get some water in the tank by Reef-A-Palooza on October 7th and 8th. That way it only took a year to get the tank wet.
For those that have used Starboard for the tank bottom (under the rocks and sand), would that be necessary for me given my tank has a PVC bottom?
Would you still install the starboard?
Next for the rock structures- For the rods, I plan to use 3/4" or 1" pvc pipe. Would acrylic rod of the same diameter be better, or would that be overkill? I mean I like overkill but...
I hope to get some water in the tank by Reef-A-Palooza on October 7th and 8th. That way it only took a year to get the tank wet.
No point unless you want to change the color on the bottom. No sand? But you love wrasses!
Back from the dead!
For those that have used Starboard for the tank bottom (under the rocks and sand), would that be necessary for me given my tank has a PVC bottom?
Would you still install the starboard?
Next for the rock structures- For the rods, I plan to use 3/4" or 1" pvc pipe. Would acrylic rod of the same diameter be better, or would that be overkill? I mean I like overkill but...
I hope to get some water in the tank by Reef-A-Palooza on October 7th and 8th. That way it only took a year to get the tank wet.
For those that have used Starboard for the tank bottom (under the rocks and sand), would that be necessary for me given my tank has a PVC bottom?
Would you still install the starboard?
Next for the rock structures- For the rods, I plan to use 3/4" or 1" pvc pipe. Would acrylic rod of the same diameter be better, or would that be overkill? I mean I like overkill but...
I hope to get some water in the tank by Reef-A-Palooza on October 7th and 8th. That way it only took a year to get the tank wet.
