Drilled RSM 130 this morning

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#1
With a little, A LOT of help from Jesus, not Heyzus. I managed to successfully drill a 1/2" return and 3/4" drain in rear compartment. Remove one of the baffles so not to create or leave the so-called "chamber of death". Then drill another 1/2" hole above the factor returns to raise/maintain a higher water level when power is down or return pump is shut off to control draining from display.

Interesting thing I use to do this almost daily without thinking. And of all places a company I first learned the trade, "Marine Glass" which is now long gone. Done it at many other shops as well. Still can't remember if I ever lost a sheet of glass/mirror. Never worried when doing it. Maybe because it wasn't my money nor was I doing it freehand. Used a portable press and just let the weight of the drill do the work. Also had access to quality bits made by reputable glass companies. No EBay 30 years ago.

So, as far as I know, I own the only 130 drilled through the bottom. Seen the back drilled but not the bottom. Been searching for a cheap/free acrylic tank to butcher into a sump to fit underneath. Seen an ATO tank that would work great but I'm a cheapo and they want $60. $60 seems like a lot to me to but something to cut in half and glue back together. But it would create instant baffles for me and fit perfectly. But only 10" tall. Pondered a larger fuge/sump to sit next to it.
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#2
Nice work. I have a 130 that is drilled on the back. How did you remove the baffle? Just cut the silicone? Ive removed most of the silicone and the baffle still wont budge. Gonna try a hammer next.
 
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#3
Nice work. I have a 130 that is drilled on the back. How did you remove the baffle? Just cut the silicone? Ive removed most of the silicone and the baffle still wont budge. Gonna try a hammer next.
Yes, cut silicone. Found one side I was able to get the blade all the way through and kept working it. It was a booger. Used a rubber mallet cautiously and tapped it till it gave. It did break about two thirds the way down. Amazing how strong a small bead of silicone is. But after that I manged to reach the bottom portion to get it all out. Wasn't going to but pictured me reaching in for something forgetting about raw edge and opening up my hand. Also thought about putting a bead of silicone on it to cover the edge if I didn't get it out. NOT using my finger to apply it of course.
I was hoping to save it and use it to put as a baffle closing in the grated area of the stock overflow. Would have fit perfectly along those two upright pieces and on top of the horizontal pieces, forcing water down and under before rising back up to standpipe. I'm hoping not to have to use the restrictor plate and leave the grate wide open. I think the hieght of my standpipe will regulate that. I don't use Durso, just straight piece of pipe and then a valve to control flow.
Cut opening in top of stand today too. Their particle board is some good solid stuff. Not soft at all like most, didn't crumble.
 
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#4
The particleboard of my stock RSM stand burnt up 3 sawzall blades while I was trimming bottom of door and cutting slots on both sides to allow for chiller to be in stand but vent through the side. Youre not joking, Its some serious stuff.
 
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#5
The particleboard of my stock RSM stand burnt up 3 sawzall blades while I was trimming bottom of door and cutting slots on both sides to allow for chiller to be in stand but vent through the side. Youre not joking, Its some serious stuff.
So you drilled the back of yours. Your chiller is in stand? Where is your sump? Next to stand? Because I'm thinking I want to keep a rather large sump/fuge in a cabinet next to tank. It's in garage so space and looks is no biggy.
 
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#6
Bought it drilled but plugged it and ran it with custom media basket, Tunze 9002 skimmer w/InTank collection cup & upgraded return pumps. Might drill smaller holes for chiller as it is currently plumbed through the opening in the back.

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#7
Yeah. That silly little part for adding a chiller is an overpriced piece of plastic. Like those media baskets in my mind. Thought about making something that would fit in rear chamber as not to have a sock in sump but just the skimmer, fuge, return.
 

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