Cacdlights 70 Flow and Drain Problem

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#1
So, I recently purchased a Cadlights 70 gallon Artisan II. They actually delivered and installed it for me including the plumbing. It is plumbed with a 1/2" return line and 1 1/2" drain line. It is a durso overflow. So I am having a couple of issues.

It came with a modeaquarium pump per the link below. This is the name, I think, Cadlights is moving towards. So, I am also using an Apex and wanted to take advantage of using the flow sensor so I am using their 1" sensor because it is set up to handle higher flow. So, I have it plumbed with 1/2" tubing off the return pump adapting to 1" plumbing for the sensor and then adapting back to 1/2" tubing up to the standard 1/2" return line the aquarium comes with. I have 1/2" split locline at the tank return. The problem is with the pump at maximum I am only getting 275gph. This pump is rated up to 2000gph. Cadlights came back yesterday and they questioned the flow the apex sensor was actually giving but later after they left I checked it with a 1 gallon container. It took 1/2 of the localine 27 seconds to fill up the container. If you calculate that out each locline is supplying about 133 gallons per hour when added together is 266gph. Pretty close to the apex sensor. The question is why is the flow so low? The 1/2" line should handle around 1200gph. Also they brought me out an even stronger pump(Model 12000) and the flow was still only around 320gph. Maybe the transition from 1/2" to 1" and back is causing a problem. The apex sensor is basically right off the return pump output.

https://www.modeaquariums.com/product/dc-8000-aquarium-pump/

Also what would it take to make the return line bigger? Would I have to drain the aquarium and drill new holes?

The second issue is the drain. As I said before it is plumbed with a 1 1/2" piping. There is a ball valve inline. The issue here is leaking. When I first started up the drain manifold was leaking(dripping) and when I adjusted the ball valve to reduce the drain flow the leaking got worse. So Cadlights came back out yesterday and removed the drain manifold and put a new one in. Now it doesn't leak when you have the ball valve wide open but if you start to restrict the flow it starts leaking. Cadlights says this is because by restricting the flow I am putting pressure on the drain manifold which is causing the leaking but this doesn't sound right. Also I am using a cup rather than a sock and I can't get it to stop overflowing.

Cadlights is saying they are willing to come out and replumb it again but I am not feeling very confident. I am wondering if I should get someone else to come in a tear out the old and replumb.

Sorry to be so long winded and appreciate any feedback.
 
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#2
1/2" return is small and can only put out so much. Also take in to account head pressure. If you only have a single drain then I would leave it wide open. Adjusting a single drain line is just playing with fire. If your drain is leaking only wheb you adjust it means either they over tightened it and made the washer ineffective or the valve itself is faulty. If a company comes up with excuses as to why your brand new equipment isn't working the way it should then that should already red flag you about them.
 

joseserrano

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#3
Going from 1/2 to 1back to 1/2 will slow it down some, but not 1000 plus gallons wise. Pump is most likely generously rated. GREG C would be able to explain this and also inform you that we all are getting ease less flow then we think
 
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1/2" return is small and can only put out so much. Also take in to account head pressure. If you only have a single drain then I would leave it wide open. Adjusting a single drain line is just playing with fire. If your drain is leaking only wheb you adjust it means either they over tightened it and made the washer ineffective or the valve itself is faulty. If a company comes up with excuses as to why your brand new equipment isn't working the way it should then that should already red flag you about them.
It's just the sensor is right above the pump so head pressure shouldn't be an issue at that point. The actual flow at the nozzles is about the same as what is coming out of the pump so I don't think it is a head pressure issue. When I did research on a 1/2" line it shows it can handle up to 1200gph. Also if I open the drain ball valve all the way it is really noisy.
 
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#5
You can always use both of the predilled as a herbie drain. Then do a up and over for the return.

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reefes pieces

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#6
Is it possible to test the flow with the sensor removed? Obviously will have to fill buckets and measure the time it takes to fill like you did before. But at least you can start by process of elimination.
 
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Doesnt matter where the sensor is. If you have 5 of rise from the pump intake to the return line outlet then the entire closed return line has the flow restricted by 5 of head pressure. The actual head pressure within the return line will vary depending on amount & degree of bends in your Loc-line and it will also be less as you travel closer to the outlet but the amount of flow is dependent on the maximum head pressure. Water wont be flowing faster out of the pump than it is out of the end of return line.
 
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Is it possible to test the flow with the sensor removed? Obviously will have to fill buckets and measure the time it takes to fill like you did before. But at least you can start by process of elimination.
That's what I am going to try tonight. I can take vinyl tubing directly from the pump to the return pipe in the stand and bypass the sensor.
 
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#9
Doesnt matter where the sensor is. If you have 5 of rise from the pump intake to the return line outlet then the entire closed return line has the flow restricted by 5 of head pressure. The actual head pressure within the return line will vary depending on amount & degree of bends in your Loc-line and it will also be less as you travel closer to the outlet but the amount of flow is dependent on the maximum head pressure. Water wont be flowing faster out of the pump than it is out of the end of return line.
Here is the pump spec:

Wattage (Power consumption): @1500GPH is 30W, @1750GPH is 40W, @2000GPH is 50W

Hmax (Vertical Head Pressure): @30W is 138 High, @40W is 157 High, @50W is 177 High


Even on the high setting I am only getting 275gph. There is about 2 feet of vinyl tubing to my return pipe which goes straight up into the overflow outlet for the tank. Maybe a 2 to 3 foot rise. No major bends or 90 degree angles. Do you think the head pressure should restrict is from 2000gph to 275gph? I do have a couple of tees off the return line to add reactors but they are both closed.
 
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#10
Look at the pic of the pump. The outlet barb is stepped from 1 down to 1/2. Best flow is going to be with biggest pipe. You are fighting head pressure and frictional resistance of small diameter pipe. Every time someone installs a flow meter on their return line they immediately start a post asking whet coiuld be wrong because they arent getting the #s they had hoped for.
Use the 1/2 bulkhead as a 2nd return line as suggested by [MENTION=5085]newtothis[/MENTION] and drill another hole for larger bulkhead or run a larger return line up &o very the back. You will get much more flow with bigger pipe but even then, dont expect 2000gph. Ive been told by pump manufacturers that those #s are theoretical based on running the #s of the RPM of of the pump and the capacity of the spaces between the impeller and not real world #s!
 

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