New Radions, huge hair algae outbreak !!!

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#1
Hey guys I was hoping for a little advice or experience. I purchased a couple of Radions, about six months ago, and I decided to set up the traditional reef aquarium template . I started out at 30% intensity, two months ago and I'm up to 45% . I have a par meter I'm only getting about 250 where my corals are (SPS at 6 inches below the surface my lights are about 18 inches above the surface. Over the last month, I have gotten a huge green and brow algae outbreak. Also a lot of diatoms on the sandbed. I had 2 ebay leds, at white 30% and actinic 100%, and 2 T5 bulbs running before the radions. My parameters are PH 8.3, Mag 1400, Calcium 500, KH 9, Nitrates .5, and phosphate . 2 (very low on both). I have 1 tang, put in 10 turbo snails and 2 long spine urchins, but they can't keep up. I have been told it's because I am ramping up my Leds. I am increasing intensity 5 % a week, and trying to reach 400 par at my SPS, and 100 at bottom of my 92 bowfront, 26 inch deep tank, for my LPS, acans, chalices. I just started a 3 day blackout. I had dinoflaggelitis about 9 months ago and learned that it will get rid of most of the algae, but not hurt corals. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR INPUT MUCH APPRECIATED !

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#6
Phosphates. 25 !!

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Okay, gonna go out on a limb here and HOPE that your Phosphate reading is .25 and not 25... Either way, you are waaaaay to high there. Hair and all nuisance algae are from an overabundance of nutrients, and not a lighting issue. It IS possible however that the improved lighting added to the algae explosion, but not a direct result. The bigger problem is Phosphate and quite possibly silicates.
Check your source water 1st. Even if you make your own RODI. Filters and carbon blocks wear out. Especially so if your city uses chloromine and you have a regular carbon block.
Check your feeding habbits. Overfeeding is probably the biggest cause of nuisance algae.
By getting to the root source of what the hair, and any other nuisance algae is feeding on, is the only real way to to solve the problem.
There are several ways of doing this, but none are an overnight solution. GFO, water changes with pristine source water, to some extent UV sterilization and a realistic feeding strategy are your best bets.
Keep the Radions. They are great lights.
 
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#7
Thanks, my Phosphates are .25 not 25. I have been feeding everyday, because I have 12 fish in my tank, one an anthias and a dwarf lion I have been trying to get te eat frozen. I am going to get a better pump for my phosban reactor, feed less.I know you don't need to feed but every 3 days. My water source is from Culligan, a water store, with a good reputation of having very good Water. Thanks

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#8
Thanks, my Phosphates are .25 not 25. I have been feeding everyday, because I have 12 fish in my tank, one an anthias and a dwarf lion I have been trying to get te eat frozen. I am going to get a better pump for my phosban reactor, feed less.I know you don't need to feed but every 3 days. My water source is from Culligan, a water store, with a good reputation of having very good Water. Thanks

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Not to say Culligan isn't good water, but I'd test it. Drinking water and RODI are not the same thing. Perfectly healthy for us could mean perfectly yummy for hair algae.
In trying to find the root of the problem, check all possible sources of Phosphate and silicates. I'd personally start with the water and work my way down the list..
Cutting back on feeding will DEFINITELY help too.
 
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#9
Yes I will test their water again ! I would get water from the LFS but the one close by, there water is not good, they don't change there Filters often enough

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#10
And for what it's worth, Anthias are cool and pretty, but need to be fed often to thrive. Anthias are one of those fish that can cause problems indirectly like algae outbreaks because of the need to feed them so often.
Dwarf lions are also cool, but it may take a long while, if ever, to get them to eat frozen. Again, a potential problematic fish when trying to maintain low nutrient tanks.
Hope this helps.
 

russ13

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#11
I really like the Hanna checker for testing phosphate. There a bit more money but I think there more accurate and a lot easier to use
 

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