Cyano in fairly high flow areas?

Smite · Nov 20, 2016

Ive got this red mat algae that I believe is cyano. Its in areas where zoas and hammers are about maxed out as far as flow. Its pretty thick, but seems to dissapear towards the end of the lighting period. Kinda bubbles away towards night time hours.

I need to get a different test for phosphates, always reads 0 and i think thats off. My nitrates are around 7-10 right now. It appeared once i got detectable nitrates. I dose ME polyp extender daily about 10 ml for 100g system. I've lost polyps off my hammer trying to keep this stuff gone. So, is it cyano?

Edit: i also dose oysterfeast nightly about 10 ml. 4 drops of coral vitalizer a little while after i dose the aminos.

Calreef18 · Nov 20, 2016

Any pics? I had a bunch of the same the first few months, similar scenario with undetectable phosphate, and low nitrates. I ended up feeding more to bring the phosphate/nitrate balance into check and added some microbe lift special blend and that helped it go away.

solitude127 · Nov 20, 2016

I'm not a believer that high flow will prevent cyano

christian7144 · Nov 20, 2016

I agree with solitude. I have an mp40 in a 56g n it's growing on my mp40. I used chemiclean before and it went away. Between the time I first got it n today, I didn't have any with phosphates present in my tank.

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Smite · Nov 20, 2016

Thanks for the confirmation then guys. I just allows read it cant hang in high flow areas so it had me wondering. I've got 2 mp40s and a gyre 150 running almost full blast in a 100g and it just holds strong.
What are you guys testing phosphates with? I've got a Hannah checker but I struggle to get all the powder in the vial so I'm not sure my readings are accurate.

christian7144 · Nov 20, 2016

Smite said:

Honestly I'm using API n I know they aren't accurate. I just added chemiclean to my tank n keep you posted.

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watchguy123 · Nov 21, 2016

Smite said:

There have been many reports of cyano popping up after starting amino acid supplements. I don't think anyone truly knows whether this is cause and effect or simply happenstance.

The Ulr Hanna checker and the testing powder is challenging. I found that if I cut around the foil packet as described and use my scissors in reverse to open the pouch that I have more confidence in adding all the powder as instructed. I have to make two or three attempts to get it all out. Wish it was in pill form!!!

For nitrates I use salifert, but find the color diffferences challenging between 5 through 25, even when looking through the side. For under 5 ppm nitrate, I use Red Sea pro. I get surprised when people report numbers like 7 because I just don't get that. Of course perhaps one of the other test kits give different ranges.

djrice69 · Nov 21, 2016

Did you have any algae(macro or in tank nuisance algae) die off? If so they tend to release no3 back when they die. So higher no3 but zero po4 isn't balanced nutrient but it will also make cyano grow as it will try to out compete and consume that no3 that remains in your system. Siphoned/water changes as much as you can do a black out for a day or 2.

Btw dosing Coral Me aminos will brings up some no3 I'd cut back on that it has vinegar in it that would fuel that cyano bacteria.

reefes pieces · Nov 21, 2016

Do you have room to add more media in the sump? Like Brightwell Xport or Marine Pure? I'd add that and dose some beneficial bacteria like Microbacter Clean, Dr Tims, or Vibrant. I've been reading up a lot on nuisance problems and it seems likes the common issues are that waste is being taken up by bad bacteria and nuisance algaes outcompeting the good bacteria and algaes. So dosing bacteria and giving the bacteria added surface area can be helpful especially with these minimalistic aquascapes that are trending right now. This is just my subjective opinion of course

innerspark · Nov 21, 2016

Ok so when I had a cyano issue I had zero nitrates and high phosphates. Things to check, test your water change and top off water, check to make sure your at a true zero, raise your po4 a little if you are at a true zero. Best thing I found out about cyano I sometimes it comes from a simple imbalance caused by your NO3 and po4 not being at the right levels for each other.

Smite · Nov 22, 2016

watchguy123 said:

That's what I was curious about. I may try cutting back the amount I dose and see if that helps. I'm pretty sure I know what you mean with the scissors in reverse, creating a pour spout and I'll give it a go tonight when I get home.
I use salifert for nitrates also and am guilty of claiming 7-10 in my OP

Smite · Nov 22, 2016

djrice69 said:

Thanks for the input. I was wondering if that might be the case. I've noticed a string vinegar smell to the polyp extender. I didn't notice that with kz amino acids and didn't have the cyano issue. My emeralds are starting to make a dent in my bubble algae so maybe that's furlong it as well.

Smite · Nov 22, 2016

reefes pieces said:

I forgot to mention i dose potassium nitrate as well. I struggled to get detectable nitrates and my corals were paying the price. Between dosing and adding a lot of fish I finally got nitrates in the system. My corals responded very well. I picked up some mac7 from CG on my way home yesterday and plan to start dosing it along side my sponge power when uv and slimmer are off for a few hours.
Thanks for the input!

Smite · Nov 22, 2016

innerspark said:

Thanks Mike. I'll test my po4 level when I get home.

What ratio is everyone shooting for? Are we raising po4 through feedings or dosing? Do the proper levels help coral out compete algae?

innerspark · Nov 22, 2016

Smite said:

That all depends on what you want to do. If you want a ULN then bring your NO3 down lower. I run mine at about .0 to .10 but I also have no PO4. Just got to find that balance that works for you. If you want to keep your NO3 levels then you need some PO4 detectable and you will get more algae. Let me look up some links and I'll post them for you. I know my tanks ran better with .3 PO4 when I had 10 NO3. Think the ratio was 16:1 or something like that but does not have to be exact.

innerspark · Nov 22, 2016

djrice69 said:

From my research vinegar is the one carbon source that red slime does not eat.

innerspark · Nov 22, 2016

Smite said:

That's the problem your putting more nitrates in the system to try and bring your levels up for better color. Sounds like your putting to much in. Instead of dosing stuff to bring up your PO4 to match 2 things you can do are, scale back slowly on the dosing and over feeding the tank NO3 or lower your PO4 extraction methods.(i.e. Less GFO if your running it). Personally it would probably be better to scale back your potassium nitrate to maybe 25% and the same with your amminos. Also not sure about dosing both at the same time. Remember slow changes so that everything has time to adjust and you can find the sweet spot.

All I dose in my 50 is 5ml of acropower a day and then calcium and alk. Others I dose as needed based on tests and or coral colors and health.

When I started using biopellets again a month ago it was because I was tired of cleaning my glass eveyr few days and I don't really have the time right now for my weekly water changes. However with my red slime issue I had that took me months to figure out I decided to start at a dose of 25% of the recommended for my system and I have no t touched it since as its borderline to much for where I want to be.

lowbudget · Nov 22, 2016

high flow doesn't prevent cyan. it just blow it away so it can get to the lower flow area. lol

solitude127 said:

theMerchant · Nov 22, 2016

Saw this product and the feedback looks good. Vibrant Liquid Aquarium Cleaner

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=271428&share_fid=1020&share_type=t
Vibrant Liquid Aquarium Cleaner * Discussion Thread

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solitude127 · Nov 22, 2016

theMerchant said:

I'm trying this now for my temp tank. It has bubble algae. I'm 3 weeks into it so probably too early to tell.

Cyano in fairly high flow areas?

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