1. Find out what materials you’ll need for your desired case
First, I had to figure out which type of case and materials I would need. For visibility: I wanted an enclosure that did not obstruct the view of the entire printer, so I needed a case with high visibility. I also have a large delta, and I would like it to match the black finish of the printer. Thus, I needed the acrylic on all sides to have high visibility, and a metal frame to match the printer. I also required a large enough door opening so that I’ll be able to pull the printer out of the case for maintenance.
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2. Order your materials
What do you do when you want to enclose a delta printer? Build a bigger delta of course. I ordered six 1500mm 20×20 V-rail extrusions from OpenBuilds Part Store, two 1500mm 10×10 extrusions and two 80mm 10×10 extrusions from Amazon, five acrylic sheets from Amazon (24×48” x .118”), and six 1×48” acrylic sheets from McMaster-Carr. For the frame I printed out six Kossel top frame pieces in black PLA (you can also purchase these).
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3. Cut the parts to fit your printer
With all of the parts printed and the packages from Amazon delivered, it was time to start building the case. I measured the size of the case that I would need, and it came out to 26” across. I cut the extrusions into the appropriate sizes for the vertical and horizontal rails and then I bolted the enclosure together. I double checked the size and then I moved on to adding the acrylic.
I used a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel to cut the shape of the top and bottom sections of the acrylic into the Delta’s shape. I then attached three 24×48” sheets to the sides and the top and bottom acrylic to the case with Loctite E-40FL epoxy. Since the size of my case was too large for the 24×48” sheets to enclose the sides, I had to attach the 1×48” sections to each acrylic sheet to expand the acrylic enclosure. Once those extensions were attached, I used Loctite seal to attach the acrylic to the vertical rails. I used blue tape to hold it all together until everything was cured. Now, it was time to construct the door.
4. Build a door
For the door I used the last remaining sheet of 24×48” acrylic and framed it with the 10×10 aluminum extrusions. Framing gives the acrylic door rigidity and aids in sealing because it makes the acrylic flat and removes any curvature on the sheet. I glued the extrusions to the acrylic with the Loctite epoxy. For hinges I printed off black hinges that I found online (hinges from Pinshape here), or you can purchase hinges), and I attached them with screws. I drilled the holes and then used a screwdriver to attach the hinge to the frame. After the glue dried, I installed the door onto the box.
Once the box is enclosed you may or may not need a sealing gasket. If you still smell fumes, use a door sealant gasket like the ones found at your local hardware store to completely block out the gaps.
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First, I had to figure out which type of case and materials I would need. For visibility: I wanted an enclosure that did not obstruct the view of the entire printer, so I needed a case with high visibility. I also have a large delta, and I would like it to match the black finish of the printer. Thus, I needed the acrylic on all sides to have high visibility, and a metal frame to match the printer. I also required a large enough door opening so that I’ll be able to pull the printer out of the case for maintenance.
3d printing service in vadodara,ahmedabad,gujarat.
2. Order your materials
What do you do when you want to enclose a delta printer? Build a bigger delta of course. I ordered six 1500mm 20×20 V-rail extrusions from OpenBuilds Part Store, two 1500mm 10×10 extrusions and two 80mm 10×10 extrusions from Amazon, five acrylic sheets from Amazon (24×48” x .118”), and six 1×48” acrylic sheets from McMaster-Carr. For the frame I printed out six Kossel top frame pieces in black PLA (you can also purchase these).
3d printing service in india,uk,usa,garmany,france,canada,singapore.
3. Cut the parts to fit your printer
With all of the parts printed and the packages from Amazon delivered, it was time to start building the case. I measured the size of the case that I would need, and it came out to 26” across. I cut the extrusions into the appropriate sizes for the vertical and horizontal rails and then I bolted the enclosure together. I double checked the size and then I moved on to adding the acrylic.
I used a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel to cut the shape of the top and bottom sections of the acrylic into the Delta’s shape. I then attached three 24×48” sheets to the sides and the top and bottom acrylic to the case with Loctite E-40FL epoxy. Since the size of my case was too large for the 24×48” sheets to enclose the sides, I had to attach the 1×48” sections to each acrylic sheet to expand the acrylic enclosure. Once those extensions were attached, I used Loctite seal to attach the acrylic to the vertical rails. I used blue tape to hold it all together until everything was cured. Now, it was time to construct the door.
4. Build a door
For the door I used the last remaining sheet of 24×48” acrylic and framed it with the 10×10 aluminum extrusions. Framing gives the acrylic door rigidity and aids in sealing because it makes the acrylic flat and removes any curvature on the sheet. I glued the extrusions to the acrylic with the Loctite epoxy. For hinges I printed off black hinges that I found online (hinges from Pinshape here), or you can purchase hinges), and I attached them with screws. I drilled the holes and then used a screwdriver to attach the hinge to the frame. After the glue dried, I installed the door onto the box.
Once the box is enclosed you may or may not need a sealing gasket. If you still smell fumes, use a door sealant gasket like the ones found at your local hardware store to completely block out the gaps.
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