Bean's 300 Gallon AGE Build

Smite

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I have been reading different people's quarantine protocols and am still learning what would be best for me.

I had read @hotrocks on R2R does 14 days of copper... but moves into a sterile tank after the treatment then does GC. He recommended that if I didn't have a fresh tank to move the fish to, that I should do 30 days of copper. I really don't know what the difference would be? I just asked him, my thought is moving to a fresh tank breaks the lifecycle of certain parasites like ich? Similar to TTM?

This last round of anthias, I didn't treat with copper. I just fed and watched them for 3 weeks, then did two rounds of General Cure. I didn't follow the instructions. I did one round, waited a week, then did another for a week.
Yeah I think we share the same goal when it comes to QT. I don't plan to QT coral and inverts for 76 days to rid them of ich so I'm not overly concerned with that getting into my display. My main goal with QT is to eliminate marine velvet and internal/external parasites. I basically got the same information from Humblefish thread over there. He states 10 days but 2 weeks is easier for me to remember when it ends. From what I understand 10 days in the free swimming/feeding stage has been killed off. Any ich that hatches on that day and after will still be hatched in copper and killed, so if transferred to a sterile tank you should be good and ich free. Marine velvet goes through its life stages much faster than ich and is what makes it so devastating, but also should be long gone at that 2 week mark.

So for me also not wanting to set up a whole second QT system I choose to do my parasite treatment first since its shorter and I can pull fish from copper at that 10-14 day mark straight to the display. To me if they are eating, active and appear overall healthy in copper they're going to be fine in a much larger and more stable/natural volume of water.
 
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Yeah I think we share the same goal when it comes to QT. I don't plan to QT coral and inverts for 76 days to rid them of ich so I'm not overly concerned with that getting into my display. My main goal with QT is to eliminate marine velvet and internal/external parasites. I basically got the same information from Humblefish thread over there. He states 10 days but 2 weeks is easier for me to remember when it ends. From what I understand 10 days in the free swimming/feeding stage has been killed off. Any ich that hatches on that day and after will still be hatched in copper and killed, so if transferred to a sterile tank you should be good and ich free. Marine velvet goes through its life stages much faster than ich and is what makes it so devastating, but also should be long gone at that 2 week mark.

So for me also not wanting to set up a whole second QT system I choose to do my parasite treatment first since its shorter and I can pull fish from copper at that 10-14 day mark straight to the display. To me if they are eating, active and appear overall healthy in copper they're going to be fine in a much larger and more stable/natural volume of water.
I may try your method next round just to speed this process up hahaha otherwise this is going to take FOREVER. I've already got all three tanks at 1ppm copper so I'm just going to move forward with it. I guess its recommended this way in the case a fish has velvet for instance... your losing time starting with the GC if there is a problem.
 

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I may try your method next round just to speed this process up hahaha otherwise this is going to take FOREVER. I've already got all three tanks at 1ppm copper so I'm just going to move forward with it. I guess its recommended this way in the case a fish has velvet for instance... your losing time starting with the GC if there is a problem.
That probably is the reasoning for copper first. My QT is 1 system split into mini cubes and a sump. Total volume is 55g so I can do close to 100% water change and be back on track next day in that scenario but I get the reasoning for sure.
 
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I added the Seachem Matrix and the air stones to the quarantine tanks. Copper Power is at about 1ppm plus or minus. Salinity is at 1.019. Temp acclimated the fish and dropped them in. I plan to raise the copper level to 1.75 over the next few days.

Quarantine Tank 1- 9 Anthias
Quarantine Tank 2- Pintail Fairy and Firefish
Quarantine Tank 3- Exquisite Fairy, Firefish, and Royal Gramma.



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I moved the c02 tank to a safer location. I just need to strap it to the leg of the stand. Dials on the reg are facing away from the kid just in case.

I also programmed my lights with the ATI Light Studio. It was pretty easy to do once I got around to it.






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Looking great. How are you liking that ATI so far? What are you planning to light your fuge with now?
It’s pretty cool. Gonna play with the color more when I get time. I’m not sure I like the Lagoon blue and purple plus in the fixture. Too white haha but prob better for growth so I may leave it. I want to dial in the leds a bit more but good for now.

I’d like to get a Kessil h160 and then add one more maybe later. Less spread and closer to the lid of the fuge.


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I usually just confess to Mike Solitude and Greg LOL but thought I'd share. Good and bad right?
So I killed the first round of SPS I added. Luckily two of my buddies gave them to me, so although I'm not out any money I feel really bad about killing them after the generosity. They slowly browned then bleached. Alk was stable at 7.5 or so during that time. Nitrates and phosphates have been and still remain zero. I do have a bunch of Brightwell Aquatics Neo Nitro I'm going to start adding. Even zoas, and other coral don't seem to like the new tank. I've got approx. 20 fish now.
I've been pretty good about QTing new fish going into the tank. Not all have gone through copper. The first two tangs I added initially just went through General Cure. I managed to get the blue tang, anthias, and most of the other fish through Copper and General Cure over the course of about 45 days.
The tank still had no nutrients after adding several fish. So in my haste I added a Scopas Tang and an Ornate Leopard Wrasse.

Fast forward a couple of weeks, and all 4 tangs have both ich and black ich (which I've learned is a worm of some kind). Great right? I know ich can come in with anything, but most likely either the fish I added that didn't go through copper had it lying dormant, or the new tang and wrasse did the job. There has been a little bit of aggression from the transitioning male Bimac so that probably isn't helping things.
After one round of Prazi in the display tank, the black ich is gone, and the two yellow tangs and scopas tang's ich seems to have gone down some. The blue tang is still covered but eating like a pig. I guess its now ich management for me rather than strict QT. I still may put new fish through copper in QT, but not to eliminate ich. Mainly velvet or brook. I'm definitely not going to pull all the fish and re QT.
I do intend on removing the male Bimac Anthias so the tank can be a little more peaceful which I think will help, and continue to feed heavy until I start registering some nutrients. Anyone interested? Its really pretty. Free of course.
So all in all not a good run so far but I'm still enjoying my fish only tank.
Next is a PAR meter and an ICP water test and I will go from there. :beer:
 

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That's sucks! I'm about fed up with fish at the moment.

A couple random dips came out clean today. When you're ready hit me up for some sps or zoas.
 
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