Corals slowly dying.. help
- Thread starter prozerran
- Start date
If thats the case, i would listen to @All Delight's advice and run a poly filter for toxic metals or also look into stray current. I once had mysterious coral deaths and it turned out to be a faulty heater.
How about doing 10% weekly WC and change the floss out every 3 days. See if that dose anything? That might just clear everything up… saying you don’t even do Biweekly WC and I am guessing your not dosing… bad news for coral. The fish will be fine.
Also tossing in Chemi-pure elite will go a long way every three months.
Also tossing in Chemi-pure elite will go a long way every three months.
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2007
- Messages
- 248
- Likes
- 107
- Points
- 0
The one benefit of doing a nano reef if that a 5g bucket goes a long way for WC. Which is why most don’t use skimmers including myself with my Biocube. But large reefs almost need them.
Also you didn’t say if you have an ATO or how often you top it off. Which is a negative with a nano. Evap makes huge swings in a short amount of time. Nanos are unforgiving when neglected unlike larger tanks.
I honestly think it’s your maintenance routine is causing the whole problem. Nanos need good maintenance routines or they fail…
Can it be a rusty magnetic whatever in the tank, bad heater etc.. yea. But going off what we do know. First things first, maintenance routine needs to get on point. (Weekly). When you recover you can go to biweekly “if” you don’t forget.
I do weekly, but if I forget and get it biweekly, I do a larger WC and not sweat it. But missing your biweekly might mess things up.
Also you didn’t say if you have an ATO or how often you top it off. Which is a negative with a nano. Evap makes huge swings in a short amount of time. Nanos are unforgiving when neglected unlike larger tanks.
I honestly think it’s your maintenance routine is causing the whole problem. Nanos need good maintenance routines or they fail…
Can it be a rusty magnetic whatever in the tank, bad heater etc.. yea. But going off what we do know. First things first, maintenance routine needs to get on point. (Weekly). When you recover you can go to biweekly “if” you don’t forget.
I do weekly, but if I forget and get it biweekly, I do a larger WC and not sweat it. But missing your biweekly might mess things up.
What should I look for when I inspect the heater to determine if it's faulty or near faulty? For safety measures, I have my heater hooked up to a Ranco and Apex. I'm currently using an Eheim Jager 150 watt heater, it's made of clear glass. What exactly am I supposed to look for? I know it's probably best to replace it once a year, I heard that advice a while back and it makes a lot of sense. Mind if I ask, how often do you replace your heater?
The question was for the other dude, Tangwich, but thanks for replying!
After reading your post and replies, one safe approach I can think of to make things better is to increase your bio filtration/bio media by either adding good quality cured live rock or cured bio media substrates eg. Sera Siporax to your sump and if needed, add an additional small powerhead to make sure the flow is ripping through the rocks and or bio media.
I noticed the filtration process doesn't work well unless there is enough flow ripping through the rocks and or media. Not that it doesn't work but I noticed a difference in coloration and growth; it's so much better to have moderate to high flow with additional bio in the sump rather than low flow with or without additional bio.
It's doesn't hurt if you increase the flow in the display a bit for the same reason but do take a close look to see if the sand is blowing in any direction, you want to avoid sand blowing as it can cause a negative change in the water. Even if its just a little bit, pay close attention because the little sand movement in the beginning can lead to a mount of sand shift the following day.
I had a similar problem I couldn't figure out for a long time a while back then my friend gave me a small basket of cured bio media. I got more live rocks from the LFS and as a result, I saw a big change. I had more problems I needed to figure out but the lack of bio was no longer one of them.
Water changes will help but only to a certain extent if your bio filtration is not up to par.
After reading your post and replies, one safe approach I can think of to make things better is to increase your bio filtration/bio media by either adding good quality cured live rock or cured bio media substrates eg. Sera Siporax to your sump and if needed, add an additional small powerhead to make sure the flow is ripping through the rocks and or bio media.
I noticed the filtration process doesn't work well unless there is enough flow ripping through the rocks and or media. Not that it doesn't work but I noticed a difference in coloration and growth; it's so much better to have moderate to high flow with additional bio in the sump rather than low flow with or without additional bio.
It's doesn't hurt if you increase the flow in the display a bit for the same reason but do take a close look to see if the sand is blowing in any direction, you want to avoid sand blowing as it can cause a negative change in the water. Even if its just a little bit, pay close attention because the little sand movement in the beginning can lead to a mount of sand shift the following day.
I had a similar problem I couldn't figure out for a long time a while back then my friend gave me a small basket of cured bio media. I got more live rocks from the LFS and as a result, I saw a big change. I had more problems I needed to figure out but the lack of bio was no longer one of them.
Water changes will help but only to a certain extent if your bio filtration is not up to par.
