eMac’s 187g Lee-Mar tank rebuild
- Thread starter Emac909
- Start date
I placed an order for 4 of these
Edit, after writing all that^ I went to BRS to get you a link and it seems it’s the same stuff
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquarium-silicone-adhesive-clear-10oz.html
One of the tricks is you need to get just the right gap. Two little silicone gap and there won’t be enough give for the unavoidable variances in your stand surface, too much silicon gap and the joints will be too thick and weak. I’m not trying to scare you but just make you aware of some pitfalls so you can research and avoid them.
Yea. I’ve been reading that about a 1/16” is where you wanna be. So when I’m making the tank for the masking tape I’m also going to be putting makes on the out side that will make a 1/16” gap for the silicone bead. So as I’m holding the 2 pains of glass together I’ll take a square and make a mark at the 2 15/16” so when I put the bead of silicone that mark will then be at the 3” make. Then I’ll know I’m at a 1/16 of an inch.
I feel like the acrylic is too think on the exterior box. The slightest leverage on your plumbing and it will bow. There also weren't any instructions so know the top if template is water line, not top of glass. I removed the teeth to lower my water line and allow more flow. I cant imagine running it on a larger system like that. mines 75g.
Has anyone attempted to polish glass? After getting the silicone off the front panel I’ve came across calcium etching
I had new Leemar 180 that seperated at the back left seam from top down. Crystal Dynamics had bought Leemar so I don't know if it was a Leemar built or Crystal Dynamics. I'm lucky my wife saw it and saved a disaster.
That being said I believe that it was a bad batch of silicone used at that time. I'm no tank builder and am not blaming anyone. Maybe it was bad luck.
I'm just sharing my experience and if there is a bad silicone job in one part I would not trust any of the other panels holding long term. I would just trash the tank and buy something brand new. It's cheaper than losing all your corals and fish and potentially damaging your house.
Also buy a cheap water sensor and put under the stand.
I bought a couple of these and they are excellent and will wake the dead if they sense water.
https://amzn.to/2VoKKmB
That being said I believe that it was a bad batch of silicone used at that time. I'm no tank builder and am not blaming anyone. Maybe it was bad luck.
I'm just sharing my experience and if there is a bad silicone job in one part I would not trust any of the other panels holding long term. I would just trash the tank and buy something brand new. It's cheaper than losing all your corals and fish and potentially damaging your house.
Also buy a cheap water sensor and put under the stand.
I bought a couple of these and they are excellent and will wake the dead if they sense water.
https://amzn.to/2VoKKmB
So here’s the plan.
-Tear down tank
-Clean off all silicone
-Clean off any silicone residue with acetone
-Sand and polish glass
-Pre-assemble tank a mark where to lay masking tape and lines for the 1/16” gap of silicone
-Dissemble tank and lay masking tape for where I don’t want silicone to touch.
-Clean glass one final time with 99% alcohol
-Lay silicone beads and get my family to help setup all the pains of glass.
-Spread silicone
-Remove masking tape and clean any blemishes
-Wait 14 days allowing silicone to cure.
-Clean glass
-Lay masking tape for Eurobrace
-Clean glass and prep for silicone
-Lay silicone for Eurobrace
-Apply Eurobrace and remove excess silicone
-Remove masking tape and clean off any blemishes
-Then let tank sit for another 18 days allowing silicone to cure
-Then fill tank all the way to the top and let sit for 1 month, while checking for any signs of flawed silicone beads.
-Then after the tank has passed the month leak test I’ll be drilling the back wall and installing the external overflow kit.
-Tear down tank
-Clean off all silicone
-Clean off any silicone residue with acetone
-Sand and polish glass
-Pre-assemble tank a mark where to lay masking tape and lines for the 1/16” gap of silicone
-Dissemble tank and lay masking tape for where I don’t want silicone to touch.
-Clean glass one final time with 99% alcohol
-Lay silicone beads and get my family to help setup all the pains of glass.
-Spread silicone
-Remove masking tape and clean any blemishes
-Wait 14 days allowing silicone to cure.
-Clean glass
-Lay masking tape for Eurobrace
-Clean glass and prep for silicone
-Lay silicone for Eurobrace
-Apply Eurobrace and remove excess silicone
-Remove masking tape and clean off any blemishes
-Then let tank sit for another 18 days allowing silicone to cure
-Then fill tank all the way to the top and let sit for 1 month, while checking for any signs of flawed silicone beads.
-Then after the tank has passed the month leak test I’ll be drilling the back wall and installing the external overflow kit.
Well I ordered the glass for a new Eurobrace today. I’m doing 2.5” slim Eurobrace. I going to us the old Eurobrace as a re-enforced bottom.
Also the sander and sanding discs arrived this morning and I spent about 20 min sanding a 1’X2’ section of the front pain with 3000 grit paper. I noticed that the etching had reduced by at least half and the glass wasn’t getting foggy. I’m thinking I’m going to order some 1000 & 1500 grit discs to see if it will make the process go I little quicker.
Also the sander and sanding discs arrived this morning and I spent about 20 min sanding a 1’X2’ section of the front pain with 3000 grit paper. I noticed that the etching had reduced by at least half and the glass wasn’t getting foggy. I’m thinking I’m going to order some 1000 & 1500 grit discs to see if it will make the process go I little quicker.
