How to kill bubble algae?
- Thread starter DETANE
- Start date
I just use a 3/8” rigid tube connected to hosing and cut a sharp 45 at the end, then during water changes I stab away as the bubbles get siphoned away. I do this until it’s gone, plus I throw in pitho crabs, which work much better than emeralds. The key is removing as much as you can without leaving much tissue, which is how it spreads (by the connective outer layer of the bubble). Also, one spot foxface are great at controlling it, if you have the space for one.
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That’s great advice above for controlling and eradicating BA. I would look into root cause though - typically due to a spike in nutrients after being low/sterile for awhile? I believe BA will burn themselves out once your nutrients are in balance. I’ve played with nutrients all the time so have seen this come and go.
Ive tried emerald crabs and siphoning and just couldn't completely eradicate it. I think in a larger tank theres just too many nooks and crannies. I did have a fox face at one point that ate a little bit but he died. In the end my 5 tangs keep it at bay but still see clumps of it here and there. I just dont bother with it anymore.
Another option is to use an algaecide like vibrant. But i would use it with caution. I played around with it in a smaller tank along time ago and it did seem to work but didnt trust using it in my display.
Another option is to use an algaecide like vibrant. But i would use it with caution. I played around with it in a smaller tank along time ago and it did seem to work but didnt trust using it in my display.
I prefer pitho crabs, although my ruby emerald crab from Reefcleaners has been surprisingly effective.
Of you can't get a foxface and crabs won't cut it, the only algicide approach I would take is Fluconazole, although it is a long process for bubble algae. You have to use 4x the concentration for bryopsis and run it for 6 weeks. Why I prefer fluconazole as an algicide is because it is not an algicide. It is a fungicide that targets the cell wall. Algae (and macroalgae) have cell walls. Corals don't because they are animals and only have a plasma membrane. On the whole, fluconazole should not affect corals. Dinoflagellates within corals that give them their colors also have cell walls, but theirs seems to be different enough that they don't all die off (consequently, fluconazole likely not affective against nuisance dinos either). At most, I've seen some slight color changes in a few corals and nems rhat was temporary. Other algicides like Algaefix (or Vibrant which is a ripped off clone of Algaefix) seem to have a lot more unintended consequences.
Alternatively, I find an algae scrubber works well in slowing down nuisance algae spread, giving your CUC a better shot at cleaning it.
Of you can't get a foxface and crabs won't cut it, the only algicide approach I would take is Fluconazole, although it is a long process for bubble algae. You have to use 4x the concentration for bryopsis and run it for 6 weeks. Why I prefer fluconazole as an algicide is because it is not an algicide. It is a fungicide that targets the cell wall. Algae (and macroalgae) have cell walls. Corals don't because they are animals and only have a plasma membrane. On the whole, fluconazole should not affect corals. Dinoflagellates within corals that give them their colors also have cell walls, but theirs seems to be different enough that they don't all die off (consequently, fluconazole likely not affective against nuisance dinos either). At most, I've seen some slight color changes in a few corals and nems rhat was temporary. Other algicides like Algaefix (or Vibrant which is a ripped off clone of Algaefix) seem to have a lot more unintended consequences.
Alternatively, I find an algae scrubber works well in slowing down nuisance algae spread, giving your CUC a better shot at cleaning it.
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