Is it possible to rid a system of ich by doing nothing?

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#1
Hey fellow reef keepers,

I've been having a debate with a fellow reef keeper and it brought this question to mind.

Is it possible to rid your aquarium of ich by essentially doing nothing but maintaining water quality and limiting stress?

About three or four months ago I made the decision to add a large yellow tang without putting it through the quarantine process. Of coarse the yellow developed ich and the tell tale white spots were visible for three days. I feed food soaked in garlic guard and attempted a reef safe product (Kordon Kick Ich). I was skeptical of the rid Ich leading me to be inconsistent with the product only dosing the tank 3-5 times total over the three days.

After 3 days there were no signs of Ich on the yellow tang or any of my live stock I had in the tank prior to the new addition.

So it leads me to wonder if the Ich was defeated by healthy immune systems, water quality and feeding food soaked in garlic guard or if it is possible that the ich is still present in my system although there are no visible signs to support that nor are there any characteristics such as lethargic behavior/excessive scratching to support the possible existence of ich in my system either.

A little info about my tank. It's 240 gallons with a 55 gallon refugium and a eurofil 360 sump.
Inhabitants are a large red sea desjardin tang, two large yellow tanks, a bristle tooth tang, 2 black onyx snowflake clowns, 2 high grade snowflake clowns, a strawberry short cake psuedo (which needs to go lol), a dragon goby, a mystery wrasse, a slippery dick wrasse, a sea grass wrasse and 10 green chromis.
 
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#2
Lol I've never heard of a slippery dick wrasse....

I've had similar experiences with ich. I haven't had any deaths in my display because of ich, but I sometimes see what looks to be an ich spot when stressful situations arise, like when I did a tank transfer. From what I've gathered, ich can indeed be present in a system without showing signs. Some people use uv and stuff to diminish its presence, but without a real treatment or going fishless I think it stays in the tank.
 
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#3
No. Cryptocaryon irritans will remain in your system indefinitely as long as there are fish in your system. If you removed all your fish AND THEN did nothing for say...90 days(I forget the exact minimum number of days...its around 76 I THINK) then you will be rid of "ich".
 
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#4
The life cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans is between 6 days and 11 weeks. As long as the Theronts continue to find hosts ( and they will if fish are present ) the cycle will continue.
 
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#5
Discouraging information, especially considering the fact that my tank has finally been living up to my expectations.

I obviously have a lot of fish and several of them are 5"+ so a quarantine system for all these guys is not impossible but highly improbable for me unless it its an absolute necessity.

Any recommendations on a successful reef safe Ich product?

I am at a loss as none of my fish are showing any signs of sickness and I am concerned about transporting them to a new tank causing more stress and an out break...

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#7
Yeah dont move them or add products that could destroy your tank, just live with it like everyone else. Ive seen documentaries with fish covered in all sorts of parasites, its kinda natural and not the end of the world. Just keep them healthy like you have been doing
 
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#9
Hey fellow reef keepers,

I've been having a debate with a fellow reef keeper and it brought this question to mind.

Is it possible to rid your aquarium of ich by essentially doing nothing but maintaining water quality and limiting stress?

About three or four months ago I made the decision to add a large yellow tang without putting it through the quarantine process. Of coarse the yellow developed ich and the tell tale white spots were visible for three days. I feed food soaked in garlic guard and attempted a reef safe product (Kordon Kick Ich). I was skeptical of the rid Ich leading me to be inconsistent with the product only dosing the tank 3-5 times total over the three days.

After 3 days there were no signs of Ich on the yellow tang or any of my live stock I had in the tank prior to the new addition.

So it leads me to wonder if the Ich was defeated by healthy immune systems, water quality and feeding food soaked in garlic guard or if it is possible that the ich is still present in my system although there are no visible signs to support that nor are there any characteristics such as lethargic behavior/excessive scratching to support the possible existence of ich in my system either.

A little info about my tank. It's 240 gallons with a 55 gallon refugium and a eurofil 360 sump.
Inhabitants are a large red sea desjardin tang, two large yellow tanks, a bristle tooth tang, 2 black onyx snowflake clowns, 2 high grade snowflake clowns, a strawberry short cake psuedo (which needs to go lol), a dragon goby, a mystery wrasse, a slippery dick wrasse, a sea grass wrasse and 10 green chromis.
the first place ich attacks is in the gills you will not see it, just because you do not see on the outside of the fish doesn't means the fish is not infected, the only way to tell would be to take a gill clipping (small clipping on the edge of the gills) and look at it under a microscope all the things you mention just enable the fish to fight it off naturally and is good practice for husbandry i like to use Metronidazole and a product made by seachem called focus ( its a antibacterial polymer) i mix them up and add them into the food i soak with vit and amino acids (i have recipe and will post) ich has been documented to be encapsulated for 10 plus yrs in fresh and also salt water . Since salt water fish drink salt water constantly to stay hydrated and ich does not like fresh water due to cellular rupture from osmosis i like to soak my food in RODI/RO as it soaks in the food and the fish gulp it down the excess water passes over gill plate and will irritate the ich hopefully getting it to release and into the water column and my be filtered out or zapped by a uv sterilizer if applicable , i also found fresh water dips (fresh water being the same temp and PH) to be very successful so basically attack the ich on multiple fronts so you are partially right there is just more to it
 
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#10
ok here is the recipe:
get a small container ad ro water to it (enough to thaw frozen food covered by the Ro water)
add .5 of a ml of Brightwell AQ vitamarin c to the ro water
add 2.5 ml of the reef plus to the water
add a few drops of the garlic xtreme to the ro water
add one scoop of the focus and metronidazole per frozen cube of fish food and or dry food
let food soak and stir to mix well , food should soak for 10 min
the focus will then adhere the metronidazole to the food
feed for 40 days to sick fish , this is a reef safe remedy and will not harm any sps lps softies or inverts so there my secrete recipe is out for all you to use I wish you all success with you Aquarium Issues & problems
please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have
thank you
 
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#11
Thanks for the replies.

Adrock, does your recipe cure the Ich? Or just help the fish deal with it?

I'm looking at buying a 6' qt this weekend and may just go fallow to be safe.

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FijiZoo

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#12
Thanks for the replies.

Adrock, does your recipe cure the Ich? Or just help the fish deal with it?

I'm looking at buying a 6' qt this weekend and may just go fallow to be safe.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
It does cure Ich.
 

theMerchant

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#13
ok here is the recipe:
get a small container ad ro water to it (enough to thaw frozen food covered by the Ro water)
add .5 of a ml of Brightwell AQ vitamarin c to the ro water
add 2.5 ml of the reef plus to the water
add a few drops of the garlic xtreme to the ro water
add one scoop of the focus and metronidazole per frozen cube of fish food and or dry food
let food soak and stir to mix well , food should soak for 10 min
the focus will then adhere the metronidazole to the food
feed for 40 days to sick fish , this is a reef safe remedy and will not harm any sps lps softies or inverts so there my secrete recipe is out for all you to use I wish you all success with you Aquarium Issues & problems
please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have
thank you
thank you Adrock

Im going to make this cocktail .. my Chevron I recently acquired is showing signs
 
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#14
ok here is the recipe:
get a small container ad ro water to it (enough to thaw frozen food covered by the Ro water)
add .5 of a ml of Brightwell AQ vitamarin c to the ro water
add 2.5 ml of the reef plus to the water
add a few drops of the garlic xtreme to the ro water
add one scoop of the focus and metronidazole per frozen cube of fish food and or dry food
let food soak and stir to mix well , food should soak for 10 min
the focus will then adhere the metronidazole to the food
feed for 40 days to sick fish , this is a reef safe remedy and will not harm any sps lps softies or inverts so there my secrete recipe is out for all you to use I wish you all success with you Aquarium Issues & problems
please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have
thank you
**** worked for me and have used it on friends tanks with success. But if the fish is weak it will most likely die to its illness.
 

russ13

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#15
I've tried ruby reef and a few other reef safe ich killers but never had any success. I've tried fresh water dip but if never did much. Turns out that the ich is under there slime coat so that doesn't effect them much. I use the feeding method and a cleaner shrimp.
 
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#16
After 3 days there were no signs of Ich on the yellow tang or any of my live stock I had in the tank prior to the new addition.

So it leads me to wonder if the Ich was defeated by healthy immune systems, water quality and feeding food soaked in garlic guard or if it is possible that the ich is still present in my system although there are no visible signs to support that nor are there any characteristics such as lethargic behavior/excessive scratching to support the possible existence of ich in my system either.

A little info about my tank. It's 240 gallons with a 55 gallon refugium and a eurofil 360 sump.
Inhabitants are a large red sea desjardin tang, two large yellow tanks, a bristle tooth tang, 2 black onyx snowflake clowns, 2 high grade snowflake clowns, a strawberry short cake psuedo (which needs to go lol), a dragon goby, a mystery wrasse, a slippery dick wrasse, a sea grass wrasse and 10 green chromis.
If the fish look good leave them alone but yeah I was able to get rid of ick with the help of UV, cleaner wrasse and cleaner shrimps.
 
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#17
using antibiotics in the food is the way to go. and can be added to the food and fed to the fish with no ill affect. you can pm me with any questions you have
 
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#18
ok here is the recipe:
get a small container ad ro water to it (enough to thaw frozen food covered by the Ro water)
add .5 of a ml of Brightwell AQ vitamarin c to the ro water
add 2.5 ml of the reef plus to the water
add a few drops of the garlic xtreme to the ro water
add one scoop of the focus and metronidazole per frozen cube of fish food and or dry food
let food soak and stir to mix well , food should soak for 10 min
the focus will then adhere the metronidazole to the food
feed for 40 days to sick fish , this is a reef safe remedy and will not harm any sps lps softies or inverts so there my secrete recipe is out for all you to use I wish you all success with you Aquarium Issues & problems
please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have
thank you
This recipe has saved my fish 2 times so it does work but like said keep feeding , I would feed 3 times a day


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mralg79

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#19
I used this stuff when my fish got ich.I added a new redsea sail fin tang and he got it and give it to everyone.This stuff cleared it right up and it has not came back sincehttp://www.drgsmarineaquaculture.com/anti-parasitic-caviar-detail.cfm
Dr.G's Anti-Parasitic Caviar
 

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