Jimbo’s CDA 250

Smite

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#61
That is interesting. you'd think there would be several holes for a closed loop. Maybe just plug it?
 

Jimbo327

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#62
I am so dumb. I had assumed the returns were 1" since drains were 1.5". I bought all the 1" plumbing (piping, fitting, loc-lines, valves and nozzles). Then when I tried to fit into the return bulkheads...I realized the return were 3/4". Damn.
 

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#63
I am so dumb. I had assumed the returns were 1" since drains were 1.5". I bought all the 1" plumbing (piping, fitting, loc-lines, valves and nozzles). Then when I tried to fit into the return bulkheads...I realized the return were 3/4". Damn.
I requested 4x1" holes in my over flow for 3 drains and a return. I didn't specify overflow hole size so I did the same thing. They drilled 3/4" and I had bought everything for 1"!
Having 1" all the way up to the elbow for before the bulk head really helps with flow though. I"m running an m1 at 60% and it's very strong.
 

Jimbo327

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#64
Slow going. I finally moved the sump into the stand, and I picked up John’s used external refugium chamber. Not much room left for anything else. Still have to do the piping next, and clean up the used skimmer and pumps.

CF6C11AF-2EA7-41F6-BECA-91197B9122E9.jpeg
 

Jimbo327

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#65
Just started dry fitting my main drain. I was thinking of putting the gate valve here closer to front of sump so it is easier to reach like in the photo. Not sure if this will be better or worse for noise. Good or bad idea? (I will add the unions later)

I only purchased 1 spears gate valve because it is expensive. Do you think I would need a valve on my 2nd drain pipe on the bean animal setup? This tank is in my living room, so noise needs to be minimal.
82F75F37-D695-4278-B95F-A215738BE96C.jpeg
 

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#66
Looking good Jimbo. Just the one gate on your main line is good. The rest will be open flow. You'll adjust your gate until you barely have water flowing into the secondary line. That's where it gets the quietest for me.

I usually cut my emergency just under the lowest part of the teeth of the overflow. Secondary 1" below that and main 1" below that or in a external box I just leave that stand pipe out. I do that so I can swish any built up detritus easily out of the box.

EDIT: Forgot you're external. Just keep in mind your secondary stand pipe determines the water level inside your external overflow box. If you keep the secondary close to the height of the bulkheads it will keep it nice and quiet.
 
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Jimbo327

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#67
How often do you adjust the gate valve on the main line to keep it quiet? Or is it set it and forget it? I’m debating whether I should set the gate valve in the back or front.
 

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#68
How often do you adjust the gate valve on the main line to keep it quiet? Or is it set it and forget it? I’m debating whether I should set the gate valve in the back or front.
Front would probably be ideal. Once you’re dialed in you shouldn’t have to mess with it if your return line is dedicated. If you’re running a manifold off the return line it can be trickier and need more adjusting to keep it quiet.
 

chowberg

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#69
Front would probably be ideal. Once you’re dialed in you shouldn’t have to mess with it if your return line is dedicated. If you’re running a manifold off the return line it can be trickier and need more adjusting to keep it quiet.
i agree with Matt. Front is optimal but for the most part you don’t touch it. It’s just nice having easy access

the times I adjust mine is if I add new water flow equipment. My return pump or overflow teeth might get dirty/clogged and I can (temporarily) fix it by adjusting the gate valve but best practice would to clean the obstruction.

with all that being said, IMO you can’t really go wrong in any location as long as it doesn’t prevent you from easily accessing another element to you filtration.
 

five.five-six

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#70
How often do you adjust the gate valve on the main line to keep it quiet? Or is it set it and forget it? I’m debating whether I should set the gate valve in the back or front.
You’ll have to spend a little time tuning the gate valve, adjustments made may take several minutes to reach equilibrium.

Don’t forget to shut the power off with tank and sump filled, then power it back up so you know the maximum sump running level that won’t overflow the sump in case of a power outage.
 

Jimbo327

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#71
Thanks guy. I’m going to spend this weekend working on the drain plumbing. I may need to head to the plumbing supply store to get more fittings. My problem is…too much planning, and not enough doing.

In the meantime, I added some gray conduit raceway duct for future cable management. My wife hates loose cords, so this seems like a practical way to do it like the pro IT guys.
6BB4B180-42BD-4B10-86E0-83B2A5905AB3.jpeg
 

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#73
Hard to beat both those for wire management. Its going to look clean.

I looked back and it saw your lighting option is floating. Here is a great option for wire management for the light rack: https://www.amazon.com/D-Line-Spiral-Management-Solution-Organize/dp/B07DQSMVFN/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1TMET56NAQ7W2&keywords=spiral+wrap&qid=1661533373&s=hi&sprefix=spiral+wrap+,tools,132&sr=1-11&th=1

It bundles the 3 cords up but what I really like is it has some hold to it. So if you bend a angle it will hold and that will help your light stay level and also hold it center over the tank.
 
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Jimbo327

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#74
Do you guys recommend putting a gate/ball valve on both sides of the return line? I'm debating if I need them or not. Would you use them to balance out the flow? I'm leaning not using any gate/ball valves on the return line.

I'm planning on using a Ecotech L1 pump for the main returns. There will be no manifolds off this.

I still need more fittings, so return line plumbing has stopped for now.
 
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Jimbo327

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#77
First time working with acrylic solvent weld-on #4, the consistency is very thin like water. But this stuff is incredible with acrylic repair.

I took a chance and bought this broken Dastaco A2 calcium reactor. All of the drains’ ball valves were snapped off the acrylic chamber body.

Applied the weld-on #4 with a needle applicator both inside and outside of crack. Then let cure for 72 hours. The weld looks very strong. Water tested and No leaks!!! :giggle: Thank God this didn’t become an expensive paperweight. (y)
90FD04D4-77DC-48AA-80C2-A61DDE3C9949.jpeg
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Jimbo327

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#79
I heard this calcium reactor is pretty finicky to dial in, but once it does, then it's easy. And the instructions to set it up is pretty bad.

The main problem is that I can't fit the calcium reactor inside my stand. And I don't have room for the 10lb CO2 tank either. I'm thinking of cutting back on the electronics area.
 

Jimbo327

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#80
With the calcium reactor fix out of the way, I started cleaning the nasty old pumps I got used. I hate it when the used stuff is not cleaned. So I got 2 buckets of citric acid going, and scrubbing off old fish poops...it's nasty. And 1 big old smelly Regal Octopus 300-INT skimmer, I might clean it up and sell it, not sure yet.

While the pumps are disassembled and soaking, I'm going to start planning for my electronics board, and try to make it neat and pro looking. The overall space is ~ 30" high and 24" across. Here is what I got drawn out on Excel where I want to put most of the controllers. White part is where I will drill holes. I don't have a hand router, so it's mostly going to be drills and jigsaw.

Any tips, feedback or critiques welcomed as I've never built/done a electronics board before.

1664250962200.png
 
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