This past weekend I picked up sweet tank that needed some love haha. I have been looking for a while for a big tank at a good price and this was it! 72"L x 32"W x 24"T peninsula, 3/4" acrylic with an external overflow. This tank will be replacing the 135 gallon visio that is currently housing my fishes and some coral/nems that wouldn't fit in frag tank.
My plan for this tank is to be as simple and easy as possible and will be primarily a fowlr with anemones and packed with several types of fast growing and forgiving monti caps and polyps. I basically have all the equipment already from the 135 but would like to get more powerful and importantly efficient powerheads and return pump by going DC, I want this tank to be as cost efficient as possible lol. I'm planning on either the waveline DC6000 or 1000 return pump and two koralia gen3 2450 gph pump at 9.5 watts you cant beat. I will be using the RO prime 200int skimmer since that's what I already have and it's a beast. For lighting, I will take off the 4 kessil 360(low intensity of course) off the one frag tank and use those for the easy reef and go all T5 for the prop system. For sump, Ill probably find some cheap glass (as long as it doesn't leak) or a Rubbermaid stock tank for sump. Since its primarily a fowlr I'll also be plumbing in line to the return manifold a 36w UV and carbon reactor. Going bare bottom as well.
So here some photos: I just finished the stand today. Its made of 2x4 and 2x8. All the tools I used were 2 power drills, miter saw, kreg jig, C clamp, and corner clamp for tight joints. Here's the blueprint I follow http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110&highlight=building+a+stand. I've built several stands using this plan and all of them have been cheap, easy, and rock solid. The idea of the this stand is to not allow any screws bear the weight of the tank rather, use the wood to transfer the weight to the floor; using 3" screws to keep the wood in place. I used a kreg jig to make pocket holes to firmly screw the legs into the frames as this is the best way to attach a stands' legs.
First photo is the 135. Second is the 240.
My plan for this tank is to be as simple and easy as possible and will be primarily a fowlr with anemones and packed with several types of fast growing and forgiving monti caps and polyps. I basically have all the equipment already from the 135 but would like to get more powerful and importantly efficient powerheads and return pump by going DC, I want this tank to be as cost efficient as possible lol. I'm planning on either the waveline DC6000 or 1000 return pump and two koralia gen3 2450 gph pump at 9.5 watts you cant beat. I will be using the RO prime 200int skimmer since that's what I already have and it's a beast. For lighting, I will take off the 4 kessil 360(low intensity of course) off the one frag tank and use those for the easy reef and go all T5 for the prop system. For sump, Ill probably find some cheap glass (as long as it doesn't leak) or a Rubbermaid stock tank for sump. Since its primarily a fowlr I'll also be plumbing in line to the return manifold a 36w UV and carbon reactor. Going bare bottom as well.
So here some photos: I just finished the stand today. Its made of 2x4 and 2x8. All the tools I used were 2 power drills, miter saw, kreg jig, C clamp, and corner clamp for tight joints. Here's the blueprint I follow http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110&highlight=building+a+stand. I've built several stands using this plan and all of them have been cheap, easy, and rock solid. The idea of the this stand is to not allow any screws bear the weight of the tank rather, use the wood to transfer the weight to the floor; using 3" screws to keep the wood in place. I used a kreg jig to make pocket holes to firmly screw the legs into the frames as this is the best way to attach a stands' legs.
First photo is the 135. Second is the 240.
