Shooting Raw, looking for tips. First time using Adobe lightroom

Smite

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#21
too bad you shoot nikon I got ton of canon gear I’m selling
It's the only DSLR I've ever had, eventually I'll upgrade once I prove to myself I can learn to use its functions. Something with video would be awesome
 

five.five-six

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#22
Gotcha. Very nice picture.

I've tried to set my white balance off new plugs, white acrylic and even schedule 80 PVC but it always seems to over correct. Like there is no blue in the pictures. I'll check out the cards and give that a go too.

I'm gonna look I to finding a used macro lense, good to know different macros do better with x frame. I have no idea how many clicks this thing has it's pretty old so hopefully I can find a decent macro used around 200, otherwise I'll be dropping more than the camera is worth.

Thanks everyone for the input.
Thanks! That photo was just an example of shallow DOF

This link is a pretty quick read


Try an actual calibrated gray card. Also, have the camera out of focus when you sample the card for evaluation.

https://www.ebay.com/p/1400398598?iid=142866468275
 
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#23
I like Tuttle Camera. They have nice stuff and aren't to stuffy. Pro Photo in Costa Mesa is also very good.

Nikons, Canon, Sony, they are all great. The differences between them are not something the average user will notice. IMO the best investment is in the glass.

Are you using the PVC or frag plug to correct in in post, or are you setting up a custom white balance in camera, and then shooting to that white balance, and then fine tuning in post?

Where do you find out about the contests? I need something to do LOL. Since I moved down from Portland I have only met 2 other people in the club. Would be fun to be more involved.
 

Smite

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#24
I like Tuttle Camera. They have nice stuff and aren't to stuffy. Pro Photo in Costa Mesa is also very good.

Nikons, Canon, Sony, they are all great. The differences between them are not something the average user will notice. IMO the best investment is in the glass.

Are you using the PVC or frag plug to correct in in post, or are you setting up a custom white balance in camera, and then shooting to that white balance, and then fine tuning in post?

Where do you find out about the contests? I need something to do LOL. Since I moved down from Portland I have only met 2 other people in the club. Would be fun to be more involved.
I didnt in these but when I have tried using those it was to set a custom WB to shoot in on my camera. They basically came out like I was shooting in sunlight, so eliminated all blue from the picture.


Here is the current grow out. I think you could still join, entry ends on 10/17 I believe:
http://www.socalireefs.com/index.ph...-out-part-dux-official-contest-thread.102557/

And current color up, there may be 1 spot left. This is why I'm trying to hone in my reef pics under royal blue

http://www.socalireefs.com/index.ph...awler-contest-official-contest-thread.102555/

You can find them both under "general reef talk" or something like that
 

djrice69

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#26
If your shooting on a raw grey card doesn’t matter too much it’s ment to balance normal light that doesn’t have blue and only needed if you shot in jpeg to tell the camera what it thinks is grey. In raw it doesn’t matter.
Since camera are built for skin tone and tungsten and day light kelvin I would manual just set your camera kelvin to the higher number usually max for blue shots. And pop on a warm filter to remove certain wave spectrum from the light source, but still introduce the color you want to show up.

Longer focal lengths may also appear to have a shallower depth of field because they enlarge the background relative to the foreground (due to their narrower angle of view). This can make an out of focus background look even more out of focus because its blur has become enlarged. However, this is another concept entirely, since depth of field only describes the sharp region of a photo — not the blurred regions.
 

Smite

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#27
If your shooting on a raw grey card doesn’t matter too much it’s ment to balance normal light that doesn’t have blue and only needed if you shot in jpeg to tell the camera what it thinks is grey. In raw it doesn’t matter.
Since camera are built for skin tone and tungsten and day light kelvin I would manual just set your camera kelvin to the higher number usually max for blue shots. And pop on a warm filter to remove certain wave spectrum from the light source, but still introduce the color you want to show up.

Longer focal lengths may also appear to have a shallower depth of field because they enlarge the background relative to the foreground (due to their narrower angle of view). This can make an out of focus background look even more out of focus because its blur has become enlarged. However, this is another concept entirely, since depth of field only describes the sharp region of a photo — not the blurred regions.
I just started playing with that in lightroom. Very cool. I've got a piece of liverock that was in my sump, when I placed the WB dropper on that it came out pretty good, for fish shots.

@pledosophy Thanks for mentioning Tuttle, in LB. It looks like that have a fairly priced 90mm Tamron that is supposed to be decent for the money. I may go give that a try.
 

Smite

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#28
Pretty darn close, used that nem rock as WB in Lightroom. Thanks for the tips and input everyone. I've got my Avast porthole and drop in filter showing up later this week. Looking forward to messing with it!
Chromi-2.jpg
 

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#29
I don’t like the avast filter it’s too green I can let you use my special blend if you need it
Pretty darn close, used that nem rock as WB in Lightroom. Thanks for the tips and input everyone. I've got my Avast porthole and drop in filter showing up later this week. Looking forward to messing with it! View attachment 79937
 

djrice69

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#30
Another pro tip anytime you add a filter you will need to bump your iso a little to compensate for a darker image, but will introduce noise depending on your camera body and if hand held keep the shutter no slower then 1/60 sec otherwise tripod is a must with long lens such that if the 90mm nikon and/or 100mm for canon and keep your aperture at around f5.6-10 if you don’t like it shallow and with higher f numbers you need to play with your shutter and or iso.
 

Smite

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#31
I don’t like the avast filter it’s too green I can let you use my special blend if you need it
Did you make your own special blend or is that something I can buy somewhere?

Another pro tip anytime you add a filter you will need to bump your iso a little to compensate for a darker image, but will introduce noise depending on your camera body and if hand held keep the shutter no slower then 1/60 sec otherwise tripod is a must with long lens such that if the 90mm nikon and/or 100mm for canon and keep your aperture at around f5.6-10 if you don’t like it shallow and with higher f numbers you need to play with your shutter and or iso.
I'll refer back to this next time I'm shooting and if I get the macro lens. I still dont fully understand the relationship between those but I'm gonna check out some YouTube vids and do some research later tonight.
 

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#33
Macros are 1:1 for size and Efl or effective focal length so you can get close to the objects detail. I was making the filters in house but you can buy them under various brands which I can’t disclose due to NDA
Did you make your own special blend or is that something I can buy somewhere?


I'll refer back to this next time I'm shooting and if I get the macro lens. I still dont fully understand the relationship between those but I'm gonna check out some YouTube vids and do some research later tonight.
 
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