Sps die off
- Thread starter Bernal
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Invest in a RODI system if you can - be one of the best investment in this hobby. I would never trust any water source other than my own. We have way too much invested in our tank to let to trust someone else's water. In this hobby you're taking care of water the corals and fish are the upside of it.
yes, phosphates can make it by a tds meter. Anything at a level below parts per million will be undetected. Doesn't sound like a big deal but if you're constantly topping off with a low amount it could start to add up. I'm not saying that's your issue (or even phosphates) but worth looking into. If you find phosphates (in a clean RO/DI jug) from the LFS water then I'd be wondering what else is making it by sub ppm.
If you're not 24/7 on your macro, start there. Watch your nitrates as they'll be used up with your phosphates. Personally I like to keep no3 detectable and would chose to dose no3 if it bottoms out on your way to <.12 po4.
If you're confident in your water quality and salt brand, do a few water changes over the course of a week or two. Make sure your skimmer is clean and functioning at 100%. If you're running socks or filter floss/sponges change them more regularly.
If you're not 24/7 on your macro, start there. Watch your nitrates as they'll be used up with your phosphates. Personally I like to keep no3 detectable and would chose to dose no3 if it bottoms out on your way to <.12 po4.
If you're confident in your water quality and salt brand, do a few water changes over the course of a week or two. Make sure your skimmer is clean and functioning at 100%. If you're running socks or filter floss/sponges change them more regularly.
Thanks I took your advice and turn my macro on 24/7.I tested phosphate today and got a reading of 0.13 ppm.i also tested my local lfs rodi water and got a reading of 0.03 phosphate and 1.9 nitrate. I will retest at the end of the week and see reading and adjust if needed. Thank you again for some direction on where to start.
If you plan to continue using LFS, I'd ask to see the TDS meter. If that was a really clean bucket or water jug I'd be curious as to what else is getting by that you can't really test for. Might be worth testing for chlorine to be safe too.
If the fuge continues to pull your po4 down steadily that's great. Easiest way to remove nutrients in my experience. When you get down below .1, maybe in that .06-.08 range I'd go back to a light period opposite your display and see if it holds for you.
Not sure if that original post was a screenshot of an ICP. If it was consider using ATI's ICP. They seem to be the most accurate/consistent and you also fill a vial of your RO/DI - fresh water - to test for pollutants. That will give you some real insight into your LFS water.
If the fuge continues to pull your po4 down steadily that's great. Easiest way to remove nutrients in my experience. When you get down below .1, maybe in that .06-.08 range I'd go back to a light period opposite your display and see if it holds for you.
Not sure if that original post was a screenshot of an ICP. If it was consider using ATI's ICP. They seem to be the most accurate/consistent and you also fill a vial of your RO/DI - fresh water - to test for pollutants. That will give you some real insight into your LFS water.
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Yes all readings should be at zero in regards to nutrients and on your TDS meter.
I would invest in a RO/DI asap if you can swing it. It'll save you from further headaches and money down the road. It is relatively cheap and easy to install. I have mine hooked up under the kitchen sink sitting in a cardboard box. I just pull it out when I need to make some water.
I would invest in a RO/DI asap if you can swing it. It'll save you from further headaches and money down the road. It is relatively cheap and easy to install. I have mine hooked up under the kitchen sink sitting in a cardboard box. I just pull it out when I need to make some water.
I would stop getting water from your LFS now, if you're getting N & P in your source water, then most likely you're getting a lot more unwanted things in that water as well. Also, with high phosphate and low lighting, you'll see this happen to sps. First, I would fix your source water and invest in a good RO unit, something with dual carbon blocks and at least two stages of DI, one being a silica removing resin. Second, I would slowly increase your intensity of your lights so that most of your acropora are getting 350+ micro moles. Your nutrient levels aren't anything to be alarmed about, but combined with other factors can cause issues. It may be worth it to send in an ICP (ATI being preferred) as they test RO as well. This will show other contaminants that normal tests won't show.
How many fish and what are you feeding (foods & amounts)?
How many fish and what are you feeding (foods & amounts)?
Thanks for the info. In my book that's not a lot of food for that many fish, but I'm also not a fan of just plain mysis, as it's usually messy and full of PO4 if you don't rinse it enough. For frozen food, I prefer LRS reef frenzy (or Rod's if you can't find LRS). To help lower nutrients in a biological way, you can add some bio media (inert bio bricks, siporax, etc...) to your sump, which will help reduce nutrients and give more area for bacteria to populate. I'm also not a fan of GFO, as this can strip too much PO4 quickly if not utilized properly. Using certain bacteria can naturally bring down nutrients and also feed your corals. I like to use PNS Probio for this when needed, but only use half the recommended dose and slowly increase until you get to your desired level(s).
I think most of your issues are coming from using bad source water, not enough light intensity and low density of beneficial bacteria. I have 9 fish in roughly 100g of water and I feed 6 to 8 times a day with a mix of flakes, pellets (2 varieties) and LRS, but I barely have 1ppm of NO3 and probably around .05ppm of PO4. But each tank will be different in regards to biology and how efficient nutrients are processed/utilized. I think there's a lot of good advice that's been given, so choose a course and go slow and observe along the way.
I think most of your issues are coming from using bad source water, not enough light intensity and low density of beneficial bacteria. I have 9 fish in roughly 100g of water and I feed 6 to 8 times a day with a mix of flakes, pellets (2 varieties) and LRS, but I barely have 1ppm of NO3 and probably around .05ppm of PO4. But each tank will be different in regards to biology and how efficient nutrients are processed/utilized. I think there's a lot of good advice that's been given, so choose a course and go slow and observe along the way.
