Tank Restart Thoughts IM SR 80 AIO

[Smite]

Actually now that I zoomed in on it, the pieces on the rockwork don't seem to have polyps growing down, so I do think it has to do with the white bottom.

 

[Smite]

I can't find a picture where I had the bottom free of coraline, so maybe that's a down side. But, you can see if you stay on top of it, your top down with be like new sand. In person, its so much more pleasing to the eye and very bright.

 

[scaramanga]

That looks awesome! I am definitely going to paint this white. Decided to bleach the rocks. Starting the process today. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Once it's all done I'm going to build the structure I want. Seed it with rubble rock. Then Pods and Phyto.

Anyone able to recommended a good place to get some live rock rubble? Any local place or is it all online places like TB Saltwater? I mean we live right next to an ocean lol!

 

[Smite]

I just bought some liverock branch rock from @joseserrano on here that I'm happy with. It was scraped and cured/cycled for some time. I've been looking close, and so far, no vermitids, aiptasia or any unwanted pests popping up. Which is something I was shooting for with my restart.

I got rubble years ago, it was from Unique or Golden State coral. I wanted more biologic diversity in my system at the time. I went in on it with @drexel, but can't remember which shop it came from? I remember it was also from Solomon, I believe.

 

[fish590a]

If you muriatic acid bathe your rocks get yourself a brute trashcan and a pick a time or day that's not windy. Have a large box of baking soda on hand incase you want to neutralize the reaction early for any reason. Have spot, preferably near the gutter, but one that is cement preferably. Gutter in the street is probably the best spot and a power move, you'll either assert dominance over your neighbors or get the cops called on you in your dish gloves and goggles.

Add rocks, Add tap water until rocks are cover. Then with gloves, slowly add the acid into the water. Do this in small amounts and waiting a few minutes between adding. Add it until you get a decent bubbling reaction, it increases over time and turns to nasty brown foam. You just don't want too much of it to handle. That's how I've always done it in the past. This last go I went off a ratio I found online. Added it and it was way too much and a complete headache, 2' of brown foam above the edge of the brute and the wind picked up.

For scaping, save yourself the fiberglass posts/epoxy or even reef cement and get yourself some fine/medium grain dry sand (even from your old breakdown if you have it) and a bottle of GlueMaster super thinset glue. Easiest way to scape and very strong. I have some but I'm not sure I'm done with it yet, I can let you know.

There are some videos on youtube that break it down, but it sets instantly (well a couple seconds) so it makes scaping overhangs and all the fun things you'd want to do much easier. Set the pieces up how you want, sprinkle some sand in the joint, tilt your thinset dont squeeze, hear cracking of sand and rock from the temp change. Repeat over the joint a few times to build it up. It'll be damn near strong as the rock when done. It's messy and burns if you get it on your skin so plan accordingly.

If you look at my old build thread that was all held together that way, left side was around 60 lbs wet when I recently pulled it out and it held together after years in the water. Right side, 90lbs did break in half when I was pulling it out but that sucker was heave and awkward I should have asked for some help.

I started with planted tanks, went high tech for a little bit, then low tech discus tanks for a while, then went to reef tanks. Personally reef tanks are easier since there are so much test kits available (atleast since i was doing fw around 06-'10) Looking forward to the build thread.

If you go barebottom and plan to clean the bottom pane of glass regularly. I highly recommend flipping your tank over and painting the bottom white (outside bottom). This gives a better more natural look, mimics sand but the best part is it reflects light back up which really helps keep colonies of acropora looking good from the front, reduces shaded die off and really helps brighten up the whole display. If you want to see an example of that, look up my UNS 75 build from a few years ago.

Can you provide a youtube link on using gulemaster for scape? Can’t seem to find it.

I’m setting up a smaller tank soon and I like to try putting together a better scaping.

Thank you.

 

[Smite]

Can you provide a youtube link on using gulemaster for scape? Can’t seem to find it.

I’m setting up a smaller tank soon and I like to try putting together a better scaping.

Thank you.

This one shows you the basics. About half way through it has someone working while he's narrating. Basically place rocks together, drizzle sand in joint, then drizzle thinset glue in joint/sand. Hold for a few seconds. Repeat that process on that joint several times until you have a solid joint. Then move on to the next piece. I went to break some pieces apart i wasnt happy with, when I first set up my 210 and the rock broke, not the joint. So it's very strong. Go easy on the glue, it gets extremely hot for the short time it takes to dry (you can hear the sand changing temps and popping) Try not to touch the tip of the nozzle to the sand. Don't squeeze, just tilt.

it's really a great product and approach for permanent scapes. You'll get done in a couple hours what would have taken days-week with other methods, no tools required (drilling rods ect) and even though it's pricey for a bottle of glue. I think it end up cheaper and is stronger than those 2 part epoxies or even the cement in my experience.

 

[fish590a]

This one shows you the basics. About half way through it has someone working while he's narrating. Basically place rocks together, drizzle sand in joint, then drizzle thinset glue in joint/sand. Hold for a few seconds. Repeat that process on that joint several times until you have a solid joint. Then move on to the next piece. I went to break some pieces apart i wasnt happy with, when I first set up my 210 and the rock broke, not the joint. So it's very strong. Go easy on the glue, it gets extremely hot for the short time it takes to dry (you can hear the sand changing temps and popping) Try not to touch the tip of the nozzle to the sand. Don't squeeze, just tilt.

it's really a great product and approach for permanent scapes. You'll get done in a couple hours what would have taken days-week with other methods, no tools required (drilling rods ect) and even though it's pricey for a bottle of glue. I think it end up cheaper and is stronger than those 2 part epoxies or even the cement in my experience.

Thank you