What pieces are those last two? Also have you shared your camera set up anywhere? Curious how you get the great top down clarity shots.
The last two pieces are
ASD Rainbow Millepora - I got that from Dorado here on SCR
CC Bahama Mama - I got that from Money Pit Corals. I believe he is a vendor at the local CFM here.
I'm using an Avast Marine Porthole to get the top down shots. It came with a yellow filter insert but it doesn't work well at all for all blue. A buddy gave me a piece of orange film I cut to fit for blue pictures. I use a DLSR; Nikon D500 and these were shot with a Tamron Macro 90mm lens. Earlier in the thread I was using a older D70(80?), honestly worked just as well, just no LCD screen which does help with the large light fixture.
For daylight shots, I don't use any filter. I'm able to manually set my color temp to 10k and that is very close to what I see to my eye with just the t5s on. I'll adjust post in Lightroom if I need to (with quanta bars on). Usually, I just need to adjust exposure and color temperature. Light room is great for that; instead of just warm/cold it breaks it down in "k" value. So if I have all t5s a go AND quanta bars, I can slide to 17,500-20,k depending on the color of the piece and get an accurate picture.
For blues I have to adjust a lot for "noise" from the high ISO setting, so I'll use the "dehaze" slider, and that pulls the fuzz out of the water around the subject, but also lowers exposure. The macro lens really focuses on a small area, so you need to really crank up the f-stop to get even a decent size frag in focus and that worsens the need for high ISO settings. Even for these small millepora pictures, I was shooting with an F between 14-22.
T5 might be the toughest light to shoot under. MH is the most natural and easiest for me so far followed by radions.
If you're limited to a phone and have adjustable lights like Radions; crank all channels to 100% for the duration of taking pictures. If shooting blue with an orange filter that's even more important as the filter lowers your exposure. Cranking everything to 100% on leds for a picture won't harm anything and you'll see some colors you usually struggle to see or capture. I found the Orphek lens kit to work well for both yellow and orange. That paired with a decent top down viewer to place your phone in works great.