Brightwell Neomarine Salt Mix

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#1
If you are using this salt mix, have you tested calcium and alkalinity on your fresh saltwater mix?
I tested mine today (using salifert test kit)
35ppt
Alkalinity at 5.7 ( I tested 3 times and got 5.7, 5.9 and 5.7)
Calcium 380

Thats a bit on the low side for alkalinity.


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djrice69

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#2
How did you mix the salt? Did you add salt to water or water to salt which one first? Also did you mix the salt prior?
 

Smite

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#3
I’ve used this salt for the last year on my system and love it. I trust it a little too much and haven’t tested in a long time. I’ll test my next batch.

I’ll say I had a clouding issue with my first batch but customer service helped me to troubleshoot the situation. It’s important to bring the water up to temp before starting to mix in order for it to mix properly.

don’t hesitate to call them, amazing customer service.
 
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#5
I’ve used this salt for the last year on my system and love it. I trust it a little too much and haven’t tested in a long time. I’ll test my next batch.

I’ll say I had a clouding issue with my first batch but customer service helped me to troubleshoot the situation. It’s important to bring the water up to temp before starting to mix in order for it to mix properly.

don’t hesitate to call them, amazing customer service.
Ii learned this the hardway, i had a nasty algae bloom at one time using this salt mix when I tested phosphate of the fresh water mix it was reading like 0.5 phosphate when I called customer service they a bad batch of salt. Come to think of it, this bucket is actually the replacement for thta salt mix, I better check phosphate now.


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Smite

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#7
Ii learned this the hardway, i had a nasty algae bloom at one time using this salt mix when I tested phosphate of the fresh water mix it was reading like 0.5 phosphate when I called customer service they a bad batch of salt. Come to think of it, this bucket is actually the replacement for thta salt mix, I better check phosphate now.


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May be a good idea. I know they keep samples from each batch. If the reading is correct they can test on their end as well.
 
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#8
Phosphate is at 0.08 for salt mix and fresh water is at 0.09 with hannah checker. It seems like my fresh water have 0.09 phosphate content though the RODI reads 0ppm. How do I fix this?


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#9
Phosphate is at 0.08 for salt mix and fresh water is at 0.09 with hannah checker. It seems like my fresh water have 0.09 phosphate content though the RODI reads 0ppm. How do I fix this?


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I believe the issue is part of your DI expiring before the rest. TDS measures above 1, your phosphate is below what your meter can read. This has come up a few times on the askrealreefers Facebook group, the founder of that group Jay Moran did a write up on how he solved the same issue. I believe the answer was 3 individual stages of DI resins. I think BRS has a video on the 3 DI stages.
 

BigMac

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#10
I've been using this stuff since Jan. I've had way too many odd problems. I switched back to TM and things are getting better.
 
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#11
I believe the issue is part of your DI expiring before the rest. TDS measures above 1, your phosphate is below what your meter can read. This has come up a few times on the askrealreefers Facebook group, the founder of that group Jay Moran did a write up on how he solved the same issue. I believe the answer was 3 individual stages of DI resins. I think BRS has a video on the 3 DI stages.
Thank you, I have just read it.


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#12
I've been using this stuff since Jan. I've had way too many odd problems. I switched back to TM and things are getting better.
Yeah, I think I will look into TM. Which TM salt mix do you use?


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djrice69

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#15
What storage container do you use to mix your salt? The neomarine salt heats up pretty high so maybe it’s breaking down your mixing container and whatever you had stored before may leach out when heated by the salts anhydrous reaction and making it precipitate out which can cause low alk. Meaning do you dump the salt all at once with water or do you sprinkle the salt lightly and mixing with a strong pump for circulation. Also I would recommend mixing it with cooler water vs warmer since the mix will get hot from the reaction. Reason why I don’t mix it warm is it will precipitate out too fast “heat up and dissolve at a faster rate making the chemical reaction change too rapid. I understand why the water heats up faster for the magnesium and strontium to dissolve quicker but that also means your soda ask or alk and calcium will react with each other.

As for phosphate in your source water you can run a cation ion di stage or my personal favorite spectrapure silicabuster Di which I think also binds with some incoming phosphate from your fresh water, I’d also check ro pressure and should be between 55 psi- 80 psi, higher the better if not add a booster pump I use a aquatic life booster buddy. Run dual chlormines carbon block from brs, and treat the new source water with some rowaphos in a reactor before mixing the salt and a little bit of prime for any chloramines that gets through the membrane. With my nsw mix batch from neomarine I would get 0.04 ppm which is where I am at currently. With 4 Di 4 carbon blocks and dual ro and a booster pump. I can go for a year without changing it out
 

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#16
What storage container do you use to mix your salt? The neomarine salt heats up pretty high so maybe it’s breaking down your mixing container and whatever you had stored before may leach out when heated by the salts anhydrous reaction and making it precipitate out which can cause low alk. Meaning do you dump the salt all at once with water or do you sprinkle the salt lightly and mixing with a strong pump for circulation. Also I would recommend mixing it with cooler water vs warmer since the mix will get hot from the reaction. Reason why I don’t mix it warm is it will precipitate out too fast “heat up and dissolve at a faster rate making the chemical reaction change too rapid. I understand why the water heats up faster for the magnesium and strontium to dissolve quicker but that also means your soda ask or alk and calcium will react with each other.

As for phosphate in your source water you can run a cation ion di stage or my personal favorite spectrapure silicabuster Di which I think also binds with some incoming phosphate from your fresh water, I’d also check ro pressure and should be between 55 psi- 80 psi, higher the better if not add a booster pump I use a aquatic life booster buddy. Run dual chlormines carbon block from brs, and treat the new source water with some rowaphos in a reactor before mixing the salt and a little bit of prime for any chloramines that gets through the membrane. With my nsw mix batch from neomarine I would get 0.04 ppm which is where I am at currently. With 4 Di 4 carbon blocks and dual ro and a booster pump. I can go for a year without changing it out
I use a 13 gallon plastic trash can to mix my water, i only do 10 gallon wc every couple weeks on about 70 total water volume. I wiuld clean the container every time I make nsw mix. I would dump the salt mix into the water all at once and have a mj1200 to mix it, I dont check the temperature, I mix the water in garage so Im assuming the temperature gets pretty high during the summer. I will look into maybe springkling the salt and cooling down the water on my next batch. The water pressure is close to 80psf

I added a chloramine blaster add on I got from MD a while back, so now it has a dual cholarmine blaster/ carbon, I made some water today and tested 0.03 phosphate for now that is acceptable since I want to keep my phosphate around there anyway. I will look into the 3 stage DI in the future, though if I dont see any issues I will probably just stick with this RODI set up. If I understand that correctly with that much di and carbon you are still getting 0.04 phosphate?


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Smite

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#17
I bet if you split your salt up into 1/4ths giving it a few minutes between adding more salt your numbers will be much better. I never used to care about the temperature of the water until I spoke with the owner about how I was mixing the salt. He specifically stated pre heated water is how to avoid precipitate. Water mixes great now. I scoop in 1/2 the needed amount for my 55g drum and let it mix for about 15 minutes then add the rest in smaller batches and test until 1.026
 
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#18
I bet if you split your salt up into 1/4ths giving it a few minutes between adding more salt your numbers will be much better. I never used to care about the temperature of the water until I spoke with the owner about how I was mixing the salt. He specifically stated pre heated water is how to avoid precipitate. Water mixes great now. I scoop in 1/2 the needed amount for my 55g drum and let it mix for about 15 minutes then add the rest in smaller batches and test until 1.026
I will try that to add salt mix in that manner on my next batch. What temperature do you usually mix your water?


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Smite

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#19
I will try that to add salt mix in that manner on my next batch. What temperature do you usually mix your water?


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My barrel matches my display tank at 78F so there is no change in temp during water changes.
 

djrice69

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#20
From my understanding the salt does heat up your water temporary as it reacts with the water that’s why you smell a sulfur or a unique smell right after mixing, you would hear a sizzling sound that’s how you know it’s reacting and changing temperature. As for your container I’m not sure which contain but not all plastic are equal some leach out stuff when water is heated due to chemical reactions. You can experiment some some salt over water and hear it sizzle then measure the temperature after it be a lot warmer then your initial temp. I keep mine right around 76-77 and mix for 24 hrs. The 0.03 ppm of phosphate could be within my Hanna testing error which is +\_ 0.05 ppm of testing error
 

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