Lowering Phosphate

mescobar

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#1
I'm having issue keeping my phosphates down in my 80 gallon tank, tank turned a year old last month. My phosphate levels currently sit between 0.30 to 0.60 ppm. Which wouldn't be a problem, if I didn't have green hair algae growing on the rocks. For now I've been manually removing the GHA and scrubbing the rocks I can with diluted hydrogen peroxide.

I do fairly regular water changes, about 15 gallons weekly. More recently I've tried using ROWAphos (in reactor) and Phoshpat-E to slowly bring down my phosphates. I've been doing the ROWAphos for about ~3/4 weeks. Phoshat-E was done for a 1/2-week dose about 3 weeks ago. Even with these measures, I can't seem to get my phosphate under 0.3 ppm.

I feed 1-cube of frozen about 3 times a week (rinsed). And also have auto feeders that feed a small amount of Seaweed Extreme + TDO pellets (once a day), and another with spirulina flakes (3x daily). I used to dose phyto until I noticed my phosphates climb up.

Looking at my testing history my phosphate levels have slowly been increasing over the past year. I usually test weekly, and would test more often once I started the reactor and phosphat-e to prevent bottoming out.
Screenshot 2025-05-15 at 1.39.51 PM.png

When I look at the statistics the testing numbers from 2024 contrast significantly when compared to 2025. Averaging 0.11( where I'd like to be) to 0.32 ppm this year.
Screenshot 2025-05-15 at 1.43.58 PM.png

I'm a bit conflicted on whether or not I should continue with GFO and/or chemical approach to lower my phosphates. I don't think I'm overfeeding my tank in a way that would warrant these high phosphate numbers. I have a nano 16G that sits at about 0.06 ppm, which has a similar feeding regime, but has been running for less than a year.

The only thing I could think of that might be causing my high phosphates is the caribsea arches I have in the tank. It would be easy to point at those rocks and say that they are "leaching" phosphates. Or maybe my filtration is just lacking? My nitrates averaged 22 ppm last year, and are up to 27 ppm this year.

Should I keep using reactor/chemicals to bring down the nutrients? Do larger water changes going forward? Replace the Caribsea arches?
 

bakbay

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#3
One of the ingredients of Phosphat-E & PhosphateRx is Lanthanum Chloride. This stuff works very, very well. My 450gal system was at 0.36 and within a few days of dosing Phosphat-E, PO4 was down to < 0.10. It's currently at 0 and I've reduced the dosage. Whatever you do, make sure to slowly dose this stuff inside the skimmer neck and/or filter through a 5micron sock. LC can cause life threatening issues with your livestock, esp tangs (from what I've been told). I've been using both of these products for many years w/o issues.
 

Reeferkcp

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#4
It’s weird for rock to leech now when it’s been in your tank for 1 year. I would look for detritus or dead fish or area where u could clean like overflow and sump.

Fish get bigger and poop more. That could contribute to the issue? Also, look at how much ur auto feeder is dumping food out. It could be more than you think.

Regardless the solution is increased export and reducing import. Ur not feeding much so import is not the issue. Export is what u need. I dose a lot of phos-e into a sock on the regular basis on a doser. Maybe consider that. But I have 30 fish and feed sheets of nori daily.

might consider carbon dosing. I do that also.
 

bakbay

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#5
It’s weird for rock to leech now when it’s been in your tank for 1 year. I would look for detritus or dead fish or area where u could clean like overflow and sump.

Fish get bigger and poop more. That could contribute to the issue? Also, look at how much ur auto feeder is dumping food out. It could be more than you think.

Regardless the solution is increased export and reducing import. Ur not feeding much so import is not the issue. Export is what u need. I dose a lot of phos-e into a sock on the regular basis on a doser. Maybe consider that. But I have 30 fish and feed sheets of nori daily.

might consider carbon dosing. I do that also.
Carbon dosing will deplete all nitrate before reducing phosphate.

IME to effectively reduce phosphate, you’ll need to do GFO or LC.
 
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#6
a little bit of phosphate rx works great to lower phosphates. for the hair algae, a small tang, urchins, and/or turbo snails (especially if you're in the growout contest ;))

maybe a little extra cleaning of sand bed, oveflow, sump, or rock would help? I do these things here and there but not sure it helps much. Just a thought.
 

Reeferkcp

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#8
Carbon dosing will deplete all nitrate before reducing phosphate.

IME to effectively reduce phosphate, you’ll need to do GFO or LC.
I agree carbon dosing alone would not solve the phosphate issues. But it does help somewhat esp if you got room for nitrate to go down. Nitrate is 27 trending up could use some lowering also if u got algae issues.
But agree carbon dosing is scary and should be done slowly and carefully. If done incorrectly could cause more issues .
 

bakbay

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#9
Carbon Dosing: NoPox, biopellets, vinegar, vodka, sugar - you’re growing heterotrophic bacteria to consume nutrients, reducing nitrate. However, it takes a long time to colonize. I’ve done this for months but got Cyano so backed off. I’ve recently switched to sulfur-based denitrator and it’s working well. Still take some time (4-5 weeks) but will work.

Nitrate under 30ppm ain’t bad, as long as your phosphate is < 0.30ppm.
 

mescobar

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#10
a little bit of phosphate rx works great to lower phosphates. for the hair algae, a small tang, urchins, and/or turbo snails (especially if you're in the growout contest ;))

maybe a little extra cleaning of sand bed, oveflow, sump, or rock would help? I do these things here and there but not sure it helps much. Just a thought.
Lot of good ideas here. My Sailfin Tang and Foxface are a bit picky when it comes to GHA, and the mexican turbos prefer the glass over rockwork. Maybe an tuxedo urchin might be the move. I also probably need to adjust my flow to prevent build up between the nooks and crannies of the scape.
 

mescobar

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#11
It’s weird for rock to leech now when it’s been in your tank for 1 year. I would look for detritus or dead fish or area where u could clean like overflow and sump.

Fish get bigger and poop more. That could contribute to the issue? Also, look at how much ur auto feeder is dumping food out. It could be more than you think.

Regardless the solution is increased export and reducing import. Ur not feeding much so import is not the issue. Export is what u need. I dose a lot of phos-e into a sock on the regular basis on a doser. Maybe consider that. But I have 30 fish and feed sheets of nori daily.

might consider carbon dosing. I do that also.
You have a point regarding export. Reminds me that I have my protein skimmer on a 12-hour cycle... I should probably adjust the schedule to run for 18 or 24-hour cycle instead to improve nutrient export. At least until the levels become maintainable.
 

mescobar

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#12
Carbon Dosing: NoPox, biopellets, vinegar, vodka, sugar - you’re growing heterotrophic bacteria to consume nutrients, reducing nitrate. However, it takes a long time to colonize. I’ve done this for months but got Cyano so backed off. I’ve recently switched to sulfur-based denitrator and it’s working well. Still take some time (4-5 weeks) but will work.

Nitrate under 30ppm ain’t bad, as long as your phosphate is < 0.30ppm.
True, running 30 ppm/0.30 ppm ratio would be more ideal. Over the course of the year, they average out to that 100 nitrate/phos ratio. But definitely would want to curb the trend downwards.
 
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#13
So in my current status of four tanks... two have high Po4 issues, two do not. Same food/water changes, etc.
Two have carib sea "Life Rock" and two do not...
Just sayin...
But it has taken a bit to get to this point and critters have become attached, so it is just not a matter of "Hey I am going to just take the rock out"...
 

bakbay

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#14
So in my current status of four tanks... two have high Po4 issues, two do not. Same food/water changes, etc.
Two have carib sea "Life Rock" and two do not...
Just sayin...
But it has taken a bit to get to this point and critters have become attached, so it is just not a matter of "Hey I am going to just take the rock out"...
Sorry - I might need to dose more caffeine (not for the tank) but I’m confused. I inferred that the “Life Rock” is causing high phosphates? If so, by how much?
 

drexel

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#15
My 90g is usually between 0.4 - 0.6 (actually much higher) and I don't have GHA taking over my tank. I think it's a good plan to slowly lower your phosphates (I think lanthanum works well, but go slow and keep an eye on your fish), but I would probably increase your herbivores. Most algae issues aren't nutrient related, they're herbivore related (the lack of). You can test zero nutrients and still have algae issues, so I would slowly and safely lower PO4 (with whatever method you feel comfortable with) and add more CUC. Turbos, astraeas and larger ceriths (and tuxedos) will do a good job at keeping algae under control.
 
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#16
Sorry - I might need to dose more caffeine (not for the tank) but I’m confused. I inferred that the “Life Rock” is causing high phosphates? If so, by how much?
The two tanks I have Life Rock in, a majority of the time the hanna is flashing. This is all anecdotal, I always have had high P04 in these tanks, maybe after the pink coating wears off, whatever the process is used to make these rocks contains phosphates.
 

anthonys_aqua

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#17
The two tanks I have Life Rock in, a majority of the time the hanna is flashing. This is all anecdotal, I always have had high P04 in these tanks, maybe after the pink coating wears off, whatever the process is used to make these rocks contains phosphates.
Life rock was so bad for reefbum he reset his tank lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

bakbay

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#18
I have a lot of “Life Rock” arches in the tank, my Phosphate is controllable but via LC. Perhaps I should be cautious as well? Also, they are leaching stuff that might be harmful? Time will tell..
 

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