My 200 Gal Delight

deaclauderdale

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So tank is clearing up from adding the sand and I have some test results:

Ammonia is either 0 or .15.
PH 8.2
Calc 400
Mag 1245
Alk 7
Nitrate 1.2
Nitrite .5
Po4 .05

I’m using MicroBacter7 to cycle the tank.


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CHASDB

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I thought you could only select one temp sensor per heater. I’ll have to look into how to program the heaters to both sensors.


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You are correct only one temp sensor per heater. I would have to change which temp sensor commands the heaters if one fails. I have both temp sensors set to alarm when outside range. Things seem to go bad when I'm away from home.

Your tank is off to a great start!
 

deaclauderdale

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Update:

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0.25 (down from yesterday)

Only testing these 2 for the next few days as they’re primary to the tank cycling. Tank has cleared up a bit more as well from adding sand but still not crystal clear as I expect it.

Pic is terrible by the way. I’ll grab some shots with the DSLR in the future.


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I thought you could only select one temp sensor per heater. I’ll have to look into how to program the heaters to both sensors.


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You can have a heater or multiple heaters linked to multiple temperature probes.

So I have 5 heaters in my system. 3 in my sump and 2 in the frag tank. Sense the frag tank is linked to the main system I monitor the temp in both tanks. Back ground info first. The pump that supplies my frag tank is located in my refuge then the drain drops in to my return section. I did this to help eliminate noise from falling water and planed out my heaters. My 187g has a temp probe in the tank so does the frag tank in tank. The heaters are located in the return section of the sump. So if we fallow the flow of water. Heated water will go from the return section into the tank then to sump. First the refuge then skimmer and last back to return. So the heated water has gone from the return section and in the 187g display before it goes through the frag tank.
Now I’m the frag the heats in there can also heat up the water and that water drops into the return section then goes through the display. Hope that wasn’t to confusing on the flow of water through the system.
Now here’s one way to program a heater to multiple temp probes. The temp probe in my display is labeled “TEMP”. The temp in my frag tank is labeled “FRGTMP”.
So say I want to turn the heaters of in the frag tank if the main tank gets to hot. So I select the outlet for the frag tank heater and use these line in advanced setting.

1. Fallback off
2. If FRGTMP < 77.0 then on
3. If FRATMP > 78.0 then off
4. If TEMP > 78.5 then off

That 4th line allows the apex to use multiple probes on that one outlet.

No this way above is fine, but I use a virtual outlet for all my items that generate heat. Like Metal halides, old school non dc pumps, and heater.
So I first create a virtual outlet and name the outlet Tem_ShtOff. Then I add these lines in advanced program section

1. Set off
2. If TEMP > 79.0 then on
3. If FRGTMP > 79.0 then on

Ok so that’s all you need to do for the virtual outlet.
Now go in to any outlet that has a piece of equipment that creates heat like heaters, MH’s, calcium reactors, or older pumps and add this line

If outlet Tem_ShtOff on then off

This line will act as a master shutoff for any device that will cause the temp to rise in my system.
Here’s the virtual outlet

Heater outlet programming
 

deaclauderdale

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Ah that makes a ton of sense. I forgot how advance the virtual outlets are when it comes to programming. Gonna add a VO with some of the code you posted.


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deaclauderdale

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Doing the final wire management. That hanging PH probe will get routed tomorrow along with the cords from the salinity probe next to it. Really pleased with how things under the stand have turned out.


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deaclauderdale

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Fish Stocking list:


Lawnmower blenny
Flame wrasse pair
Yellow tangs (3)
Yellow Coris Wrasse
Clown pair (may go with Spotcinctus)
Assorted wrasses (4 to 7 compatible)
Tomini or Key hole tang
Kaudren’s cardinal fish pair
Lyretail anthias
Copperband butterfly
Helfrichi firefish
Yellow head jawfish

Around 22 to 25 fishes. As always comments are welcomed and encouraged.


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deaclauderdale

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You can have a heater or multiple heaters linked to multiple temperature probes.

So I have 5 heaters in my system. 3 in my sump and 2 in the frag tank. Sense the frag tank is linked to the main system I monitor the temp in both tanks. Back ground info first. The pump that supplies my frag tank is located in my refuge then the drain drops in to my return section. I did this to help eliminate noise from falling water and planed out my heaters. My 187g has a temp probe in the tank so does the frag tank in tank. The heaters are located in the return section of the sump. So if we fallow the flow of water. Heated water will go from the return section into the tank then to sump. First the refuge then skimmer and last back to return. So the heated water has gone from the return section and in the 187g display before it goes through the frag tank.
Now I’m the frag the heats in there can also heat up the water and that water drops into the return section then goes through the display. Hope that wasn’t to confusing on the flow of water through the system.
Now here’s one way to program a heater to multiple temp probes. The temp probe in my display is labeled “TEMP”. The temp in my frag tank is labeled “FRGTMP”.
So say I want to turn the heaters of in the frag tank if the main tank gets to hot. So I select the outlet for the frag tank heater and use these line in advanced setting.

1. Fallback off
2. If FRGTMP < 77.0 then on
3. If FRATMP > 78.0 then off
4. If TEMP > 78.5 then off

That 4th line allows the apex to use multiple probes on that one outlet.

No this way above is fine, but I use a virtual outlet for all my items that generate heat. Like Metal halides, old school non dc pumps, and heater.
So I first create a virtual outlet and name the outlet Tem_ShtOff. Then I add these lines in advanced program section

1. Set off
2. If TEMP > 79.0 then on
3. If FRGTMP > 79.0 then on

Ok so that’s all you need to do for the virtual outlet.
Now go in to any outlet that has a piece of equipment that creates heat like heaters, MH’s, calcium reactors, or older pumps and add this line

If outlet Tem_ShtOff on then off

This line will act as a master shutoff for any device that will cause the temp to rise in my system.
Here’s the virtual outlet

Heater outlet programming
Again thanks for the details, I now have a VO programmed and set to provide for heater shutoff of both heaters now. What caught my eye about this post again is the fact that you stated that calcium reactors add heat to the aquarium as well? This will be my first time ever in reefing that I'm setting up a reactor so that is a bit surprising. Are talking more than a few degrees? Does shutting the calcium reactor on and off based on temp shorten the pumps life span or create other issues?
 

Smite

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As long as it's functioning properly I don't think you'll notice it messing with your display temperature at all. Good call to have a temp override incase of failure I know Eve had a bad pump on a new GEO that had the temperature up in the triple digits.

At real low ml/m I've noticed my reactor being warm to the touch from the constant recirculation of the sicce 1.5, but at that point the amount of water dripping into the tank is so low I don't think changes much.
 

deaclauderdale

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As long as it's functioning properly I don't think you'll notice it messing with your display temperature at all. Good call to have a temp override incase of failure I know Eve had a bad pump on a new GEO that had the temperature up in the triple digits.

At real low ml/m I've noticed my reactor being warm to the touch from the constant recirculation of the sicce 1.5, but at that point the amount of water dripping into the tank is so low I don't think changes much.
It's funny to see just how much I still don't know about the hobby...lol

I did notice when ordering my secondary reactor from GEO that they now offer a DC pump. I wonder if that has to do with heat exchange or if it's just for added controllability?
 
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It's funny to see just how much I still don't know about the hobby...lol

I did notice when ordering my secondary reactor from GEO that they now offer a DC pump. I wonder if that has to do with heat exchange or if it's just for added controllability?
Yup. I haven’t ran that reactor with the replacement pump yet but I might have to get the DC pump upgrade. I wonder why they stopped using Eheim pumps.


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Again thanks for the details, I now have a VO programmed and set to provide for heater shutoff of both heaters now. What caught my eye about this post again is the fact that you stated that calcium reactors add heat to the aquarium as well? This will be my first time ever in reefing that I'm setting up a reactor so that is a bit surprising. Are talking more than a few degrees? Does shutting the calcium reactor on and off based on temp shorten the pumps life span or create other issues?
Sorry sir I missed this. Like smite says. It’s just a safety. The old school ac pumps can have a potential to fail and turn in to nuclear reactor heat generators. But in all honesty the heat a calcium reactor could add straight to the water is so minuscule. But say I’m having a bigger issue and need all heat generator items to turn off. This is why I put the cal reactor in that group.
Plus the fact for most part my stand is some what enclosed. If one or all the exhaust fans took a poop then I would need to shut down heat generating items.

But if you have not noticed yet I go waaaaaaaay over board with stuff I do. If I was a female I would think I was bipolar , But I’ll just say I’m meticulous, o wait ridiculous.
 
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