Warning.... Fun times with ATO

[scaramanga]

Over the past couple week I have been dealing with my Tunze Osomlator 3 not behaving correctly on my IM 15g in the office. Tank was constantly overfilled. It would turn on randomly even when it was at the safety sensor. Which prompted me the past few days to figure out what is going on.

This all started when I replaced out the Green Killing Machine that I found out was actually dead(has been apparently dead for awhile). I noticed I was getting Dino's which is what prompted me to take a look at the UV. Not putting 2 and 2 together I shrugged it off and kept trying to reset and try again daily to get the ATO to work. After some research it was suggested I turn off my UV sterilizer. Immediately the ATO started working properly.

Sucks because I really like having the UV on the system. Might be time to go back to a non optical ATO.

 

[Discotu]

So ato was working fine when the gkm was dead but then started going wonky as soon as the gkm was back online?

 

[scaramanga]

So ato was working fine when the gkm was dead but then started going wonky as soon as the gkm was back online?

Yup. Then I turned the UV off. No issues

 

[Discotu]

Maybe voltage leak screwing with the ato? Otherwise totally separate systems so can imagine how it could be affecting the ato. ???

 

[bakbay]

I have the same ATO and had some wonky stuff since I was running with dual 57w UVs. Both my UVs have been retired and things have been stable. There are several threads on the "other forum" on the same subject -- you are not alone! Have you tried to run them on separate power feeds and make sure the power cables do not intersect? Goal is to segregate them as far apart as you can.

 

[scaramanga]

I have the same ATO and had some wonky stuff since I was running with dual 57w UVs. Both my UVs have been retired and things have been stable. There are several threads on the "other forum" on the same subject -- you are not alone! Have you tried to run them on separate power feeds and make sure the power cables do not intersect? Goal is to segregate them as far apart as you can.

They were on different power strips, but ended up at the same outlet. Going to try after this weekend to see if I can move cords around and try different chambers.

 

[bakbay]

They were on different power strips, but ended up at the same outlet. Going to try after this weekend to see if I can move cords around and try different chambers.

Good luck — honestly like the old ones better as well. Also, the old one has indicators and can make an audible sound.

 

[scaramanga]

Yeah... I have the Tunze 3155 on my SR 80, Previously on the 75g for 2 years, and I love that thing. The motor is loud, but damn its reliable!

 

[Discotu]

Interesting, looks like the UV ballast gives off EMI that can disrupt the ato electronics/sensors that are in close proximity. Not sure if its specific to Tunze and/or having a aio uv unit directly in the water amplifying the interference. Maybe you can try a hob style uv like the aquauv 8w unit...the ballast is separate too so you can keep it away from the tank.

 

[JohnBRZ]

Did you get the ATO recently or when they first roll out? I have the same issues with mine then one day the sensor burned. Tunze replaced it and is working fine since. I believe it was a know issues for the earlier model and needed a software update

 

[scaramanga]

Did you get the ATO recently or when they first roll out? I have the same issues with mine then one day the sensor burned. Tunze replaced it and is working fine since. I believe it was a know issues for the earlier model and needed a software update

Got it just over a year ago. Wonder if I call and explain what's going if they would replace it

 

[Jimbo327]

Worth a shot. Contact Roger Vitko at Tunze. He's the man. You may hit him up at R2R or just their customer service line. He's really responsive and good to deal with. I'm sure he knows about these complaints. I just bought a Osmolator 3...I wonder if I have the same problem. It's still in the box because I don't want to replace the 3155 yet. The rat's nest of wiring is making me not want to upgrade.

 

[drexel]

I would reach out to Roger, I'm sure he can help and I agree with Jimbo, Roger is awesome!

 

[scaramanga]

Received the follow response via email this morning. I've already tested 2 strips and still the same issue. The running it further in a bucket will have to wait till next week as I will be out of town. I'll keep it up to date on this forum as well.



I attach what we know about this issue, the best way to determine the fix is to loop the UV out of the aquarium water circuit, i.e. try it running on a bucket near the tank so no water from the tank passes through, if this solves it, the ground probe will solve it. Likewise if you have a pH probe or ORP probe that has had accuracy issues, the ground probe will likely solve it as the issues have the same culprit.

Roger




3) A flourescent light inducing current into the water or creating an electromagnetic frequency that disrupts the controller, the most common still in use on aquariums is a UV sterilizer. 2 separate issues can be at play here and there are two solutions, but the test is simple, turn off the UV and see if the issue is solved, if so, this is our culprit. Here is what we know on this so far:

We basically see 3 types of UV, premium products where this issue is minimal and usually only some distance between the UV and all associated wiring and using separate surge suppressor strips for the UV and Osmolator is sufficient to solve the problem, this is generally the case with Pentair. The ballasts are a reasonably high quality and have sufficient EMF shielding that a few feet distance, not sharing an outlet and keeping the wires of each isolated solves the problem.

UV’s that claim to overdrive the lamp, the idea here is it is a hybrid UV/Ozone generator, for this to work as advertised obviously a high amount of ionizing energy has to reach the water, this high frequency current is essentially stray voltage but more like a van de graaf generator than a live wire in the tank so you don't feel it. In this case a titanium ground probe in the tank solves the issue.

Low end UV’s where the ballast creates considerable EMF radiation, this can usually be detected on a TV or Radio in the vicinity as interference, this same interference directly affects the processor and causes it to repeatedly cycle on and off in response to the frequency. This is only solvable by considerable distance and in the worst case may require completely separate household circuits to isolate the interference. The cause here is that to cut costs all EMF shielding and most safeties were omitted from the ballast.

 

[Jimbo327]

Tell Roger to add EMF shielding to the osmolator 3.

 

[Discotu]

Tell Roger to add EMF shielding to the osmolator 3.

Exactly...whos the one cutting cost
Seriously though this is scary. I cant believe there isnt a bulletin or more proactive measure to warn or fix this issue considering worst case scenario could be a tank crash.

 

[scaramanga]

*Update.

Purchased the Volt Control Submersible grounding probe.

It seems to have fixed the issue. It is no longer randomly turning on.

Real bummer though as this is just another wiring hanging from the aquarium. Also, another piece of equipment in the tank....

 

[thresher]

Oh fun times, my ato is sticking now too. See what you started. Older tunze nano model with the single float. Any ideas peeps?

 

[Timb]

dont waste money just connect directly from DI to your tank float valve
i've been doing this for over 2 years now and have no issue with it

 

[Jimbo327]

dont waste money just connect directly from DI to your tank float valve
i've been doing this for over 2 years now and have no issue with it

This can work, but I would not recommend this setup. If you RO system has an auto flush, then you will waste a lot of water...flushing every time it runs. If it doesn't have auto flush, then the initial water through RO has high TDS, and all that TDS hits your DI...exhausting it faster.