What is the best brand for Phosphate test kit?
- Thread starter happyreefer
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Hanna ULR. Some best practices:
1. Don’t do a phosphate test right after water change or other cleaning. Particles in the water can throw off the test. I use a syringe filter.
2. Make sure the vials are kept clean with RODI water, no scratches or marks. Rinse and clean right after use.
3. When placing vial in the colorimeter, make sure you place same orientation for all tests.
4. Make sure you have recent/newer reagent
The worst part of the Hanna test is that the reagent is a powder in a little bag that is kinda tough to get it all out sometimes without spilling. You’ll get better over time. There will always be some leftover no matter what you do so I guess they account for that. I wish they would put the reagent in a better storage solution.
Whenever I am looking at any new test, I watch a video on how to do the test before buying it. If it looks too complicated I will pass.
1. Don’t do a phosphate test right after water change or other cleaning. Particles in the water can throw off the test. I use a syringe filter.
2. Make sure the vials are kept clean with RODI water, no scratches or marks. Rinse and clean right after use.
3. When placing vial in the colorimeter, make sure you place same orientation for all tests.
4. Make sure you have recent/newer reagent
The worst part of the Hanna test is that the reagent is a powder in a little bag that is kinda tough to get it all out sometimes without spilling. You’ll get better over time. There will always be some leftover no matter what you do so I guess they account for that. I wish they would put the reagent in a better storage solution.
Whenever I am looking at any new test, I watch a video on how to do the test before buying it. If it looks too complicated I will pass.
Thanks for all the info! That was really awesome! I decided to use Salifert test kits for pretty much everything except for nitrite (I use API for nitrite). I tried Hana test kits for KH and calcium in the past but didn't like using it due to the powder pack. I agree, I wish they can put the powder in a small plastic or something where I can kind of measure and scoop out. Anyhoot, I'll give Hana a try for my Phosphates. Thanks again for the awesome write up!! Especially tip#1 lol
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Hanna #1. I also keep the RedSea pro kit on hand incase I think the Hanna may be wrong.
Also for what it's worth I started out with the regular PO4 checker and thought I should get the ULR version. Both of the checkers provided the exact same readings and they both seem to work exactly the same and give the exact same reading no matter which PO4 reagent powder I used. I ended up giving my regular PO4 checker to a freind since I don't need 2. Just my experience YMMV.
Also for what it's worth I started out with the regular PO4 checker and thought I should get the ULR version. Both of the checkers provided the exact same readings and they both seem to work exactly the same and give the exact same reading no matter which PO4 reagent powder I used. I ended up giving my regular PO4 checker to a freind since I don't need 2. Just my experience YMMV.
Gotcha, thanks!
Good call. Double testing with a different test kit is a must for salinity. Sometimes, I cannot trust these things despite the many times I would calibrate them. I first use Milwaukee digital then Red Sea's refractometer. Double testing P04 is something I've never thought about lol. As much as I don't want to, it does sound like a really good idea appreciate it!!
Good call. Double testing with a different test kit is a must for salinity. Sometimes, I cannot trust these things despite the many times I would calibrate them. I first use Milwaukee digital then Red Sea's refractometer. Double testing P04 is something I've never thought about lol. As much as I don't want to, it does sound like a really good idea appreciate it!!
Thank you for the recommendation! One of the biggest struggles I have is maintaining stable salinity levels. No matter how much I try, I do know that my salinity is always going up and down between 1.025 and 1.026. Sometimes even higher or lower lol and that's something that I've come to accept. The problem with the Milwaukee and Red Sea is that I can never get an exact reading, never. So I'm always shooting from the hips hoping that I'm keeping them somewhat in line. I'll give Tropic Marine a try as I really need to work on my salinity stability. Appreciate it!! Thank you so much!!
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Gotcha, I saw one a while back and thiug
Great! Thanks for the tip!
You think so? I always thought it was a big deal. Whenever I'm at 1.024, I feel like my stuff are not doing well. I know that the 1.025 and 1.026 are both within range for good salinity levels and the 1.024 is not so maybe that's not a good argument to be had. The .001 difference between 1.024 and 1.025 is something I considered to be detrimental so because of this, I figured, surely the swing between 1.025 and 1.026 is also another big problem. Maybe not as detrimental but yet still is a problem. This is why I want to just stay at either 1.025 exactly or 1.026 to the teeth.
My swing stems from a couple of things lol. Sometimes my ATO does go crazy lol. But I would say most of the problems I'm having comes from not being able to test correctly for salinity. I would calibrate both the Milwaukee and the Red Sea's refractometer to zero salinity with deionized water. Once I put the salt water, the Milwaukee does not tell you in any lower increments beyond .001. This is why I use the Red Sea as a secondary test to see where exactly I am at. The problem is that the Redsea refractometer always has a slightly higher reading levels than the Milwaukee. It's kind of hard to explain this but let me try. When I come up with a test result from the Milwaukee at between 1.024 and 1.025 (I press the button about 3 to 4 times) the Red Sea's refractometer says that I'm at 1.0255ish. It's slightly higher than 1.025. I've tried replacing the Red Sea a few times and noticed the same thing. I hope that makes sense lol. I just can't seem to get good quality test results for salinity
Great! Thanks for the tip!
You think so? I always thought it was a big deal. Whenever I'm at 1.024, I feel like my stuff are not doing well. I know that the 1.025 and 1.026 are both within range for good salinity levels and the 1.024 is not so maybe that's not a good argument to be had. The .001 difference between 1.024 and 1.025 is something I considered to be detrimental so because of this, I figured, surely the swing between 1.025 and 1.026 is also another big problem. Maybe not as detrimental but yet still is a problem. This is why I want to just stay at either 1.025 exactly or 1.026 to the teeth.
My swing stems from a couple of things lol. Sometimes my ATO does go crazy lol. But I would say most of the problems I'm having comes from not being able to test correctly for salinity. I would calibrate both the Milwaukee and the Red Sea's refractometer to zero salinity with deionized water. Once I put the salt water, the Milwaukee does not tell you in any lower increments beyond .001. This is why I use the Red Sea as a secondary test to see where exactly I am at. The problem is that the Redsea refractometer always has a slightly higher reading levels than the Milwaukee. It's kind of hard to explain this but let me try. When I come up with a test result from the Milwaukee at between 1.024 and 1.025 (I press the button about 3 to 4 times) the Red Sea's refractometer says that I'm at 1.0255ish. It's slightly higher than 1.025. I've tried replacing the Red Sea a few times and noticed the same thing. I hope that makes sense lol. I just can't seem to get good quality test results for salinity
