Schnitzels ATI 5x24 T5/LED Hybrid

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#65


Also I took steel wool and cleaned up the c channel. They were all dirty and crud from Home Depot. They turned out real good. I used 2 different grades of steel wool. Turned out great
 
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#70
Never mind I went back and read the whole thing lol. It looks like the bars are higher than the LEDs. Will you have a shield on that puppy?


Did I just quote myself????? Yuup, and what lol
No shield. I spent a few minutes tinkering with it. Seeing as how this is a used fixture and its already rusty, I'm not too worried.

Also my tank has no canopy, and my lights are hung pretty high. I don't think I should be worried. But if I could get it to Fit, I would keep the acrylic shield.

I have no shield on my 180, and the LEDs are fine. Going on 2 years.
 

Six2seven

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No shield. I spent a few minutes tinkering with it. Seeing as how this is a used fixture and its already rusty, I'm not too worried.

Also my tank has no canopy, and my lights are hung pretty high. I don't think I should be worried. But if I could get it to Fit, I would keep the acrylic shield.

I have no shield on my 180, and the LEDs are fine. Going on 2 years.
Aaahhhh ok sweet light still. Hey have you seen that new full spectrum uv led that rapid led has. $20 a piece.
 
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Hey nick i might want to modify my geisman spectra fixture. Possibly remove the 4 5ft t5' s and replace with led. What do you think?

sent from my s4
 
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#78
Total parts list:



-Aluminum c channel from Home Depot (heatsink)
-simple L brackets from Home Depot to mount the c channel
-2 meanwell APC 35-700 drivers (non dimmable)


Wire,solder,soldering iron, thermal adhesive

That's it's. pretty simple
 
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#79
Hey nick i might want to modify my geisman spectra fixture. Possibly remove the 4 5ft t5' s and replace with led. What do you think?

sent from my s4
I'd say remove 2 t5s, and add LEDs in their place. (2-80w t5s and 2-5' strips of LEDs) Having a t5/led/MH is the ultimate setup IMO. U can run the LEDs for sunrise sunset(dimming up and down with a controller), and then have the t5s and leds run for the rest of the day. Then u really only need to run the metal halides for an hour or two.(u can kick the t5/led off when MH are on) Save a ton of electricity and $ on bulbs too. Or if u don't care about sunrise/sunset, u can run LEDs for say 10 hours, t5s for 6 and metal halides for 1-2. something like that. Depends on ur preference and how long u wanna run ur lights.

I personally really like the look of t5/led. Thats why I say don't ditch the fluorescents. They also help blend color, and fill in light where the LEDs might look spotlighty (not a word) or cause shadows. U can do it exactly how I did mine. Run a single c channel from end to end, and line it with LEDs. U will still get good shimmer and good par too while running the t5/led. then kick on the MH for the sps. Also u won't have to be concerned with whether or not ur LEDs are hitting all the correct wavelengths. That's what the t5s are for.

The hard part will be picking the LEDs and bulbs so that they look good when they're on by themselves and when they're on together. Like right now when my LEDs are on by themselves, it's really blue. but when the t5s kick on, it looks really good. I could add more whites and have them dimm up when LEDs are on by themselves, and dimm down when t5s kick on. But that gets complicated and that means less real estate for blue/420nm LEDs.


Ok I'm done. Lol
 
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