300g reef build

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#1
Just starting to setup my 300g tank 96"x30"x24".........CAN"T WAIT.........
Sump: 40g megaflow
pump: 1740-p coralife
chiller: 1/2hp coralife
Skimmer: 220gph coralife, to small want a C-Skim 1200
UV-sterilizer: 36w turbo twist

NEEDS! 150p to 200p live rock, 250p live sand, 3x250w MH, calcium reactor w/Co2, protein skimmer(C-skim 1200), auto top off, and RO unit.
 

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#2
that thing is a beast...love the dimensions...will be following along!
 
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#4
What are you going to be keeping in there? I would ditch the Bio Balls for sure and possibly look into a better skimmer down the line.! Otherwise good luck, this is my favorite tank size, just wish I wasn't on the second floor. Will be keeping an eye out for your build...
 
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#5
I was going to try something different, the width is 30" so I was thinking a full reef in the back 10"x96" and a sand bed of 20"x96" in front, for a blue dot stingray, and a baby banded shark (because of all that sand the stingray will stay away from corals) what do you think.

I also was thinking if I kept the bio balls then I can use less live rock, maybe 100 to 200 pounds.

Also I want a C-skim 1200 protien skimmer!
 
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#6
I would stay away from the C-skim, it just wont handle the bio load. There are better skimmers which you can pick up used on this forum which will handle the tank size and will cost around that mark. Trust me, don't waste your money, you will only be buying twice. I don't know if the stingray will stay away from the corals, they do swim around a lot and may knock things down. Specially at feeding time. Not to be a party pooper, just throwing it out there.

Bio Balls are not a good idea.. Nitrate factory of note. Use a deep sand bed with sugar grain sand and live rock.
 
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#7
Thanks for info. How deep of sand bed do you suggest, also I herd of people using base sand at the bottom with live sand on top, they called it seeding, What do you think about that?
 
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#9
Nice

Hey man. Sweet tank. For your sting ray and shark I'd go with an island type rock scape with a large part of it on one side and a large open sand area on the other. Or rock islands on opposite sides with large open sand area in the middle. I think that 20in. of turn around/swimming room in front will run out pretty quick as each of those guys gets 3ft plus. As far as skimmers go, the C-Skim has lots of cool gadgets and looks cool but won't perform that great. A new or used ASM G4X would pull way more skim as would a Aqua C EV240 or Vertex. All have proven performance track records. Good luck with your setup. :beer:
 
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#10
Sorry dude, I went out for a bit. I like Bouncing Soul's idea of the Rock islands on each side. I do still feel strongly against the Shark and Ray as they will out grow your system. On the other hand without these specialist animals you could have the most bomb a$$ reef tank. A deep sand bed is 4" +. Dont get into the hype of buying wet 'Live' sand in bags, rather buy a load of dry sand and maybe 3 bags of wet sand, use the dry sand on the bottom and cover it with the wetsand.

Fill the tank really carefully and avoid disturbing the dry layer. It will help in avoiding a milky tank from the dry sand. Seed the sand with sand from an established system, live rock will also help with seeding. I got my wet and dry sand from Ali at Amazing Aquariums for a good deal.

Skimmer wise: DAS - EX3, Vertex, ASM G4x, Octopus 250 pro and the list goes on, Ask questions on the forums about skimmers before taking the plunge.

One last thing, I would ditch the UV light.

Just keep asking questions we are all here to help.
 
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#11
Things to think about, these are just suggestions..

Flow: If you are going to have a reef tank you will need a ton of flow, I would say 6x MaxiJet 1200 with sureflow mods. Obviously there are more expensive options like Vortech and Tunze depending on your budget.

Lighting: Do you have MH already? If not and the canopy has a lid why not consider 10x 54w T5 retro fitted to the hood. 540w of light as opposed to 750w of MH, this will allow you to save some on your electricity bill and T5 needs to be replaced less often.

ATO: Buy the best, Tunze hands down, do not mess around with this very important item.

Calcium Reactor: Geo or MRC, easy to use and reliable, I highly recommend an AquariumPlants.com regulator, top quality and reliable. This is something to look into later down the line when you are cranking a ton of calcium hungry SPS, Clams and to a lesser extent LPS. Maybe at the beginning try a Kalk Reactor hooked up to your ATO.

For now concentrate on Flow, and a good Skimmer.
 
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#13
No dry sand... Dry in a bag, no water like the desert :)

You will see when you get there, he has dry sand and wet sand, same price but you get less with wet sand. Wet sand is in theory the 'Live" sand. Use it to cover the dry sand so when you CAREFULLY add water it doesnt cloud up as much. This saves you having to wash the dry sand which is a huge pain in the butt. Ali will help you with great advice. All his sytems are thriving deep sand bed tanks.
 
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#16
They did sell it at one time, I have heard and don't quote me on this that it is hard to find and is a particular kind. Its called Yard Right or oldcastle play sand and I just found out something interesting, buy the sand but before you put it in your tank take a few drops of vinegar and drip it onto a cup of sand. If it fizzes and bubbles its good to go, if it does not then DO NOT USE IT! It is then Silica sand which will cause havoc in your tank.. FIZZ = GOOD. I would still say use dry sand on bottom and wet sand on top, buy the wet 'LIVE' sand from Ali or a fish store and the dry from HD.

I am off to bed but please feel free to ask more questions...
 
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#17
WOW, that's a lot of info. very good to know! THANKS! Also I already put salt in tank, wish I new you before, A LFS told me to put water first then sand, maybe to cleanse sand I don't know. Don't let the bed shrimps bite
 

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