Bean's 300 Gallon AGE Build
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Here is where I am at currently. I'm going to ditch the idea of going with two return pumps. I have 2 x Vectra M1s if anyone is looking. 
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a RD3 Speedy 230. It has a 1.5" outlet.
I tried keeping the plumbing 1.5" as far as possible, but I don't want to look at 1.5" pipe at the top of the tank so I reduced it to 1".
The jog behind the tank with the two 45's is to avoid my drain plumbing.
Thoughts?
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a RD3 Speedy 230. It has a 1.5" outlet.
I tried keeping the plumbing 1.5" as far as possible, but I don't want to look at 1.5" pipe at the top of the tank so I reduced it to 1".
The jog behind the tank with the two 45's is to avoid my drain plumbing.
Thoughts?
Here is where I am at currently. I'm going to ditch the idea of going with two return pumps. I have 2 x Vectra M1s if anyone is looking.
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a RD3 Speedy 230. It has a 1.5" outlet.
I tried keeping the plumbing 1.5" as far as possible, but I don't want to look at 1.5" pipe at the top of the tank so I reduced it to 1".
The jog behind the tank with the two 45's is to avoid my drain plumbing.
Thoughts?
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a RD3 Speedy 230. It has a 1.5" outlet.
I tried keeping the plumbing 1.5" as far as possible, but I don't want to look at 1.5" pipe at the top of the tank so I reduced it to 1".
The jog behind the tank with the two 45's is to avoid my drain plumbing.
Thoughts?
Here is where I am at currently. I'm going to ditch the idea of going with two return pumps. I have 2 x Vectra M1s if anyone is looking.
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a RD3 Speedy 230. It has a 1.5" outlet.
I tried keeping the plumbing 1.5" as far as possible, but I don't want to look at 1.5" pipe at the top of the tank so I reduced it to 1".
The jog behind the tank with the two 45's is to avoid my drain plumbing.
Thoughts?
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a RD3 Speedy 230. It has a 1.5" outlet.
I tried keeping the plumbing 1.5" as far as possible, but I don't want to look at 1.5" pipe at the top of the tank so I reduced it to 1".
The jog behind the tank with the two 45's is to avoid my drain plumbing.
Thoughts?
And as far as your UV/manifold question, the only bad thing about running it it in a manifold is if your mechanical filtration sucks and you have a lot of detritus running through your return lines, some of the stuff can accumulate on the bulb shield and cause more frequent maintenance. I tried running my UV off a Sicce pump and it just took up space and was louder than I wanted. Even with the pump, I was still uncertain as to how much flow I was putting through it, so I think the flow thing is a moot point. I'm planning to get a flow meter later on to measure the UV flow since I already have an FMM.
And the RD3 is the poor man's Abyzz! Hahaha =X Or at least that's what they tell me.
I know, I know I keep changing my mind. So I have a friend that is going to long term loan me a Vectra L1. So I don't have any money out of pocket for it. I have read some heat issues with some of the L1s, but free is free and that way I can save up for the RD3.
I'm going to change the plumbing again. I'll plumb the 3 Sea Swirls with the L1, and the manifold with the M1 I already have.
Return plumbing from the L1 will stay the same, 1.5" from the pump and reduced to 1" up top as my drawing shows.
For the manifold from the M1, it will be 1.25" all around.
I just ordered the adapter kits so I can use the plumbing size I want and ditch the blue collars.
Probably, but the price difference between the RD3 150 and the RD3 230 isn't much. The Abyzz pumps look awesome, but they are even more money than the Red Dragons. 10 year warranty is crazy good on those though...
Hahaha poor man's Abyzz... heard it all now ahhahahaha too funny.
I'm confused though why would the manifold plumbing, pulling water from the sump, be any different than a separate pump running it (also pulling water from the sump)?
I understand what you mean with the flow rate though. That FMM module looks pretty cool, but that is way down the road.
I'm going to change the plumbing again. I'll plumb the 3 Sea Swirls with the L1, and the manifold with the M1 I already have.
Return plumbing from the L1 will stay the same, 1.5" from the pump and reduced to 1" up top as my drawing shows.
For the manifold from the M1, it will be 1.25" all around.
I just ordered the adapter kits so I can use the plumbing size I want and ditch the blue collars.
Probably, but the price difference between the RD3 150 and the RD3 230 isn't much. The Abyzz pumps look awesome, but they are even more money than the Red Dragons. 10 year warranty is crazy good on those though...
Hahaha poor man's Abyzz... heard it all now ahhahahaha too funny.
I'm confused though why would the manifold plumbing, pulling water from the sump, be any different than a separate pump running it (also pulling water from the sump)?
I understand what you mean with the flow rate though. That FMM module looks pretty cool, but that is way down the road.
Because what ever detritus your mechanical filtration doesn't catch will be pulled by your return pump, into your manifold, and through your UV. But if you keep your sump pretty clean, either way will work.
After the sump clean up I did back in December, I pulled about 2" of thick arse mud like detritus from my sump. Now I run a filter floss tray that captures about 98% of all detritus and like four small powerheads in my sump in different partitions. Yeah....I'm a little paranoid. lol But this was after not using filter socks for two years.
And if you've read Terrence's (Neptune) log recently, you'll notice he keeps RD3 250w's as BACKUPS to his Abyzz pumps! Haha And I've seen some baller Abyzz owners look down on RD3's for "too much head loss." lol So it's a whole other ball game with these crazy arse pumps. Haha
After the sump clean up I did back in December, I pulled about 2" of thick arse mud like detritus from my sump. Now I run a filter floss tray that captures about 98% of all detritus and like four small powerheads in my sump in different partitions. Yeah....I'm a little paranoid. lol But this was after not using filter socks for two years.
And if you've read Terrence's (Neptune) log recently, you'll notice he keeps RD3 250w's as BACKUPS to his Abyzz pumps! Haha And I've seen some baller Abyzz owners look down on RD3's for "too much head loss." lol So it's a whole other ball game with these crazy arse pumps. Haha
I have an L1, and it is quite strong, but they are flow pumps, not pressure pumps, so probably dont do great against a lot of head pressure (which i dont think you will have here with your return scheme). Also, my L1 runs at 75% and it is barely warm to the touch (I run it externally).
Just make sure that you plumb them so that the intake/output are max size (not using the ecotech supplied blue pieces).
Full disclosure, I am on my second L1, the first one nuked itself after 7 months, ecotech overnighted me a replacement (the housing around the impeller melted and bubbled and started to rub on the impeller, yikes). But keep im mind you can buy like 4 backup pumps for the cost of an Abyzz...
Honestly, I think that your plan is great, L1 for return, and M1 for manifold. That way your return flow doesnt change every time you tweak something on your manifold, which will save you from constantly having to tune your drain lines to maintain a quiet drain.
Oh, also, you can calibrate the L1 for return, so that its max and min flows are actually useful (min flow barely runs anything to the tank, max flow doesnt overcome your overflows).
Just make sure that you plumb them so that the intake/output are max size (not using the ecotech supplied blue pieces).
Full disclosure, I am on my second L1, the first one nuked itself after 7 months, ecotech overnighted me a replacement (the housing around the impeller melted and bubbled and started to rub on the impeller, yikes). But keep im mind you can buy like 4 backup pumps for the cost of an Abyzz...
Honestly, I think that your plan is great, L1 for return, and M1 for manifold. That way your return flow doesnt change every time you tweak something on your manifold, which will save you from constantly having to tune your drain lines to maintain a quiet drain.
Oh, also, you can calibrate the L1 for return, so that its max and min flows are actually useful (min flow barely runs anything to the tank, max flow doesnt overcome your overflows).
Cody, I run two pumps to my display and I have no problem with dialing in a quiet drain. Each pump goes to a separate outlet with one powering a frag tank. I use two pumps because I wanted the redundancy and, I knew I would be putting in a frag tank later on. I think its a small investment considering the risk of having the return pump go out. my $.02
