Best Fish For Nano Reef
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Bangaii Cardinal
Photo by: steelhealr
Scientific Name
Pterapogon kauderni
Average Size
2"-5"
Nano Reef Size
No smaller than 7 gallons
Aggressiveness
Generally not
Current
Adaptable, usually found in medium to strong
Hardiness
Moderate, good for nano reef keepers with at least 6 months experience.
Behavior
Banggaii cardinals get along with their own kind, as well as with other peaceful tank mates. However, two males should not be kept together as they will fight. They like to be seen in the open at all times, and will get to recognize you when you enter the room. They can sometimes be shy when first introduced to a new tank, but it quickly goes away.
Feeding
Livebearers, shrimp and other fresh and frozen meaty foods are the best choice for these fish, and good starter foods to train them onto frozen foods. They will rarely accept flake or other dry processed foods, which should be avoided because they will not provide proper nutrition. If your new fish is not accepting the foods you have, you can usually get them eating with Mysis shrimp - a fatty crustacean. After they are eating this, introduce other foods into their diet. Avoid feeding the mysis for long periods of time as it has poor nutritional value.
Description
This fish has black stripes with white speckles and a white body, along with rather ornate fins. These fish will do well in groups, in a nano reef a pair is recommended, and breed readily in captivity. They have special swim bladders that allow them to 'hover' with almost no discernable movement.While most cardinal fish are nocternal, banggaii cardinals love daylight.
Banggaiis are mouth brooders. The male carries the fertilized eggs in his mouth until they hatch, and will not accept any food. He then continues to carry the developing fry until such time as they are big enough to venture out on their own.
Bangaii Cardinal
Photo by: steelhealr
Scientific Name
Pterapogon kauderni
Average Size
2"-5"
Nano Reef Size
No smaller than 7 gallons
Aggressiveness
Generally not
Current
Adaptable, usually found in medium to strong
Hardiness
Moderate, good for nano reef keepers with at least 6 months experience.
Behavior
Banggaii cardinals get along with their own kind, as well as with other peaceful tank mates. However, two males should not be kept together as they will fight. They like to be seen in the open at all times, and will get to recognize you when you enter the room. They can sometimes be shy when first introduced to a new tank, but it quickly goes away.
Feeding
Livebearers, shrimp and other fresh and frozen meaty foods are the best choice for these fish, and good starter foods to train them onto frozen foods. They will rarely accept flake or other dry processed foods, which should be avoided because they will not provide proper nutrition. If your new fish is not accepting the foods you have, you can usually get them eating with Mysis shrimp - a fatty crustacean. After they are eating this, introduce other foods into their diet. Avoid feeding the mysis for long periods of time as it has poor nutritional value.
Description
This fish has black stripes with white speckles and a white body, along with rather ornate fins. These fish will do well in groups, in a nano reef a pair is recommended, and breed readily in captivity. They have special swim bladders that allow them to 'hover' with almost no discernable movement.While most cardinal fish are nocternal, banggaii cardinals love daylight.
Banggaiis are mouth brooders. The male carries the fertilized eggs in his mouth until they hatch, and will not accept any food. He then continues to carry the developing fry until such time as they are big enough to venture out on their own.
Christopher Marks
Pajama Cardinal
Pajama Cardinal (Sphaeramia nematoptera)
Average Size: 2-5 inches
Nano Reef Size: No smaller than 7 gallons
Aggressiveness/Territorial: Generally not
Current: Adaptable, usually found in medium to strong
Hardiness: Moderate
Behavior: Much like Banggaii cardinals, Pajama cardinals get along with their own kind, and with other peaceful tank mates. Multiple males should not be kept together however.They are a little bit more shy than banggaii cardinals too.
Feeding: Livebearers, shrimp and other fresh and frozen meaty foods are the best choice for these fish, and good starter foods to train them onto frozen foods. They will rarely accept flake or other dry processed foods, which should be avoided because they will not provide proper nutrition. If your new fish is not accepting the foods you have, you can usually get them eating with Mysis shrimp - a fatty crustacean. After they are eating this, introduce other foods into their diet. Avoid feeding the mysis for long periods of time as it has poor nutritional value.
Description: This fish has many different and uncommon markings on it's body, as well as multiple colors. It's body style is similar to that of a banggaii cardinal, however it's fins are quite a bit shorter.
Pajama cardinals are mouth brooders, and the male will carry the fertilized eggs until they hatch, and then continues to carry the fry until they can live on their own. Breeding these fish in captivity is nearly the same as breeding banggaii cardinals. Both require a clean and stress free environment.
Average Size: 2-5 inches
Nano Reef Size: No smaller than 7 gallons
Aggressiveness/Territorial: Generally not
Current: Adaptable, usually found in medium to strong
Hardiness: Moderate
Behavior: Much like Banggaii cardinals, Pajama cardinals get along with their own kind, and with other peaceful tank mates. Multiple males should not be kept together however.They are a little bit more shy than banggaii cardinals too.
Feeding: Livebearers, shrimp and other fresh and frozen meaty foods are the best choice for these fish, and good starter foods to train them onto frozen foods. They will rarely accept flake or other dry processed foods, which should be avoided because they will not provide proper nutrition. If your new fish is not accepting the foods you have, you can usually get them eating with Mysis shrimp - a fatty crustacean. After they are eating this, introduce other foods into their diet. Avoid feeding the mysis for long periods of time as it has poor nutritional value.
Description: This fish has many different and uncommon markings on it's body, as well as multiple colors. It's body style is similar to that of a banggaii cardinal, however it's fins are quite a bit shorter.
Pajama cardinals are mouth brooders, and the male will carry the fertilized eggs until they hatch, and then continues to carry the fry until they can live on their own. Breeding these fish in captivity is nearly the same as breeding banggaii cardinals. Both require a clean and stress free environment.
Ocellaris Clownfish
Photo by: Paul Ward
Scientific Name
Amphiprion Ocellaris
Common Names
False Percula, Ocellaris Clownfish, Common Clownfish
Average Size
3 inches to 4 inches
Nano Reef Size
7g minimum
Aggressiveness
Generally docile
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, Very good fish for beginning nano reef keepers.
Behavior
A. Ocellaris gets along well with peaceful tank mates, but can become aggressive towards others of its species. If more than one A. Ocellaris is to be kept in the same aquarium it is suggested that they be a mated pair, or are introduced to the aquarium when very young.
Feeding
Meaty foods such as brine shrimp and mysis shrimp are readily accepted. They will also eat most flake food, and frozen food. Rotating the types of food you feed is a good idea, this will keep the fish from becoming too picky.
Description
This fish has three white stripes with black boarders on an vibrant orange body. A. Ocellaris is often confused with A. Percula, because of their coloration and stripe patter. The discerning difference is that A. Ocellaris has 11 dorsal spines, where A. Percula has 9 or 10. A. Ocellaris is often bred in captivity making it a very hardy fish, and good for beginners. It is readily available in the aquarium trade.
Ocellaris, as with most clownfish, breed by laying their eggs near their host anemone. The parents will defend the eggs and will occasionally fan them. After 8 days the eggs will hatch, about an hour after dark. The fry should then be removed so that predators and the parents will not harm them. The fry will need to be fed baby brine shrimp several times a day. Many of the fry will not survive until maturity.
Photo by: Paul Ward
Scientific Name
Amphiprion Ocellaris
Common Names
False Percula, Ocellaris Clownfish, Common Clownfish
Average Size
3 inches to 4 inches
Nano Reef Size
7g minimum
Aggressiveness
Generally docile
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, Very good fish for beginning nano reef keepers.
Behavior
A. Ocellaris gets along well with peaceful tank mates, but can become aggressive towards others of its species. If more than one A. Ocellaris is to be kept in the same aquarium it is suggested that they be a mated pair, or are introduced to the aquarium when very young.
Feeding
Meaty foods such as brine shrimp and mysis shrimp are readily accepted. They will also eat most flake food, and frozen food. Rotating the types of food you feed is a good idea, this will keep the fish from becoming too picky.
Description
This fish has three white stripes with black boarders on an vibrant orange body. A. Ocellaris is often confused with A. Percula, because of their coloration and stripe patter. The discerning difference is that A. Ocellaris has 11 dorsal spines, where A. Percula has 9 or 10. A. Ocellaris is often bred in captivity making it a very hardy fish, and good for beginners. It is readily available in the aquarium trade.
Ocellaris, as with most clownfish, breed by laying their eggs near their host anemone. The parents will defend the eggs and will occasionally fan them. After 8 days the eggs will hatch, about an hour after dark. The fry should then be removed so that predators and the parents will not harm them. The fry will need to be fed baby brine shrimp several times a day. Many of the fry will not survive until maturity.
William Garner 7/6/2003
True Percula Clownfish
Photo by: Francis Faustino
Scientific Name
Amphiprion Percula
Average Size
3 - 4 inches
Nano Reef Size
7g minimum
Aggressiveness
Generally docile
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, if captive bred this fish is good for beginners. If this fish is wild caught then 6 months or more experience is recommended.
Behavior
A. Percula gets along well with other peaceful tank mates, but can become aggressive towards others of its species. If more than one A. Percula is to be kept in the same aquarium it is suggested that they be a mated pair, or are introduced to the aquarium when very young.
Feeding
Most meaty foods such as brine shrimp and mysis shrimp are accepted. They will also eat most flake, and frozen foods. Rotating the types of food you feed is a good Idea, this will keep the fish from becoming too picky.
Description
This fish has three white stripes bordered with black on a bright orange body. A. Percula is often confused with A. Ocellaris because of their coloration and stripe pattern. The discerning difference is that A. Percula has 9 to 10 dorsal spines, where A. Ocellaris has 11. A. Percula also tends to have a darker black border around the stripes. These borders will sometimes blend in with each other creating black areas between the stripes. This fish is found in Northern Queensland and Melanesia. It is readily available in the aquarium trade, and is sold as captive bred or wild caught. The wild caught A. Percula is more difficult to care for due to it being shipped from over seas, and is harder to acclimate.
In the wild A. Percula is often found in or around Heteractus magnifica, Stichtodactyla gigantea, or Stichtodactyla crispa. In the wild this fish will die if it does not have a host anemone. In the aquarium this fish does well without a host anemone, except in the most predatory tanks.
Percula, as with most clownfish, breed by laying their eggs near their host anemone. The parents will defend the eggs and will occasionally fan them. After 8 days the eggs will hatch, about an hour after dark. The fry should then be removed so that predators and the parents will not harm them. The fry will need to be fed baby brine shrimp several times a day. Many of the fry will not survive to maturity.
Photo by: Francis Faustino
Scientific Name
Amphiprion Percula
Average Size
3 - 4 inches
Nano Reef Size
7g minimum
Aggressiveness
Generally docile
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, if captive bred this fish is good for beginners. If this fish is wild caught then 6 months or more experience is recommended.
Behavior
A. Percula gets along well with other peaceful tank mates, but can become aggressive towards others of its species. If more than one A. Percula is to be kept in the same aquarium it is suggested that they be a mated pair, or are introduced to the aquarium when very young.
Feeding
Most meaty foods such as brine shrimp and mysis shrimp are accepted. They will also eat most flake, and frozen foods. Rotating the types of food you feed is a good Idea, this will keep the fish from becoming too picky.
Description
This fish has three white stripes bordered with black on a bright orange body. A. Percula is often confused with A. Ocellaris because of their coloration and stripe pattern. The discerning difference is that A. Percula has 9 to 10 dorsal spines, where A. Ocellaris has 11. A. Percula also tends to have a darker black border around the stripes. These borders will sometimes blend in with each other creating black areas between the stripes. This fish is found in Northern Queensland and Melanesia. It is readily available in the aquarium trade, and is sold as captive bred or wild caught. The wild caught A. Percula is more difficult to care for due to it being shipped from over seas, and is harder to acclimate.
In the wild A. Percula is often found in or around Heteractus magnifica, Stichtodactyla gigantea, or Stichtodactyla crispa. In the wild this fish will die if it does not have a host anemone. In the aquarium this fish does well without a host anemone, except in the most predatory tanks.
Percula, as with most clownfish, breed by laying their eggs near their host anemone. The parents will defend the eggs and will occasionally fan them. After 8 days the eggs will hatch, about an hour after dark. The fry should then be removed so that predators and the parents will not harm them. The fry will need to be fed baby brine shrimp several times a day. Many of the fry will not survive to maturity.
William Garner 7/10/2003
Green Chromis
Photo by: gkuwahara
Scientific Name
Chromis Viridis
Common Names
Blue-Green Chromis, Blue Green Reef Chromis, Green Chromis
Average Size
Up to 2 inches in captivity, 4 inches in the wild
Nano Reef Size
7 gallon minimum (constant swimmer)
Aggressiveness
Peaceful, Non-Territorial
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, great fish for beginners
Behavior
The Blue-Green Reef Chromis is by nature a gregarious fish, but in many instances is known to do well solitarily. Chromis are active swimmers and will occupy the middle to upper levels of the water column. They are non-territorial and curious fish that will explore the entire area of the tank and may repeatedly make the mistake of approaching another fish's territory. In this respect, solitary Chromis may be better suited with less aggressively territorial fish. Chromis do not respond well to harassment, as they are less likely to retaliate. Hiding in dark areas of the tank away from other fish is the first indication of harassment, stress or illness.
Chromis may also suffer harassment from other Chromis in the aquarium. In schools, Chromis often adopt a pecking order where the smallest of the group may become tormented to death. Thus the schooling issue is the subject of much debate and concern. It is often recommended that groups of Chromis be kept in schools of no less than 6, as the pecking behavior is more broadly dispensed among the smaller members. However, aquarists have found that pairs and sometimes trios can be grouped successfully without pecking order issues.
Feeding
Meaty, flake, frozen, and even algae based foods are all readily accepted. This fish is bold and greedy at feeding and this should be considered if a Chromis is to be grouped with a shy eater. Rotating food types and feeding color-enhancing or vitamin-enriched flakes or formulas will help maintain the fishs bright colors.
Description
Chromis Viridis is an iridescent aquamarine colored fish with 2 distinct variations among the species. The Green Chromis features a black spot at the base of the pectoral fins. Both the Blue-Green and Green Chromis come in several close color variations that can range from iridescent light green to aqua. Some variations include hints of light blue or lavender depending on the angle and type of lighting used.
In the wild the Chromis Viridis is found in the Indo-West Pacific, Eastern Africa, Red Sea, and the islands of Oceania (excluding Hawaii). The aquarium varieties are most often imported from the Indo-Pacific or Red Sea. They inhabit inshore and lagoon reefs at depths of up to 12 meters, and are mostly associated with branching corals.
Photo by: gkuwahara
Scientific Name
Chromis Viridis
Common Names
Blue-Green Chromis, Blue Green Reef Chromis, Green Chromis
Average Size
Up to 2 inches in captivity, 4 inches in the wild
Nano Reef Size
7 gallon minimum (constant swimmer)
Aggressiveness
Peaceful, Non-Territorial
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, great fish for beginners
Behavior
The Blue-Green Reef Chromis is by nature a gregarious fish, but in many instances is known to do well solitarily. Chromis are active swimmers and will occupy the middle to upper levels of the water column. They are non-territorial and curious fish that will explore the entire area of the tank and may repeatedly make the mistake of approaching another fish's territory. In this respect, solitary Chromis may be better suited with less aggressively territorial fish. Chromis do not respond well to harassment, as they are less likely to retaliate. Hiding in dark areas of the tank away from other fish is the first indication of harassment, stress or illness.
Chromis may also suffer harassment from other Chromis in the aquarium. In schools, Chromis often adopt a pecking order where the smallest of the group may become tormented to death. Thus the schooling issue is the subject of much debate and concern. It is often recommended that groups of Chromis be kept in schools of no less than 6, as the pecking behavior is more broadly dispensed among the smaller members. However, aquarists have found that pairs and sometimes trios can be grouped successfully without pecking order issues.
Feeding
Meaty, flake, frozen, and even algae based foods are all readily accepted. This fish is bold and greedy at feeding and this should be considered if a Chromis is to be grouped with a shy eater. Rotating food types and feeding color-enhancing or vitamin-enriched flakes or formulas will help maintain the fishs bright colors.
Description
Chromis Viridis is an iridescent aquamarine colored fish with 2 distinct variations among the species. The Green Chromis features a black spot at the base of the pectoral fins. Both the Blue-Green and Green Chromis come in several close color variations that can range from iridescent light green to aqua. Some variations include hints of light blue or lavender depending on the angle and type of lighting used.
In the wild the Chromis Viridis is found in the Indo-West Pacific, Eastern Africa, Red Sea, and the islands of Oceania (excluding Hawaii). The aquarium varieties are most often imported from the Indo-Pacific or Red Sea. They inhabit inshore and lagoon reefs at depths of up to 12 meters, and are mostly associated with branching corals.
Mark Detchemendy 7/23/2003
Blue Assessor
Blue Assessor (Assessor macneilli)
Maximum length: 2.4 inches
Nano reef size: No less than 7 gallons
Aggresiveness: Peaceful
Current: Any
Hardiness: These species are very hardy with almost all individuals readily acclimating to aquarium confines.
Behavior: Completely reef safe, this beautiful little fish is an excellent choice for the new aquarist. In nano tanks this fish should be kept on its own or with other peaceful species. This is a very docile fish that is a likely target for more boisterous species. Do not pair this fish in a nano reef - a proper aggregation would consist of a larger specimen, and 3 smaller ones in a tank 100 gallons or more. This fish is a bit more cryptic than some and will hide if frightened. It has been my personal experience though that they get bolder the more they feel comfortable in their surroundings and will spend more and more time in the water column.
Captive care: The Blue Assessors natural habitat are the rocky ledges and caves of the Great Barrier reef and New Caledonia. It is very important to provide proper places for this fish to hide. Caves, ledges, if given the proper overhang you can observe this fish swimming upside down.
Feeding: Zooplanktivore. Mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched brine (regular brine shrimp have almost no nutritional value), frozen preparations for carnivores (formula 1 for example), or fresh or frozen finely chopped marine fish flesh. Feed 1-2 times per day.
Blue Assessor (Assessor macneilli)
Maximum length: 2.4 inches
Nano reef size: No less than 7 gallons
Aggresiveness: Peaceful
Current: Any
Hardiness: These species are very hardy with almost all individuals readily acclimating to aquarium confines.
Behavior: Completely reef safe, this beautiful little fish is an excellent choice for the new aquarist. In nano tanks this fish should be kept on its own or with other peaceful species. This is a very docile fish that is a likely target for more boisterous species. Do not pair this fish in a nano reef - a proper aggregation would consist of a larger specimen, and 3 smaller ones in a tank 100 gallons or more. This fish is a bit more cryptic than some and will hide if frightened. It has been my personal experience though that they get bolder the more they feel comfortable in their surroundings and will spend more and more time in the water column.
Captive care: The Blue Assessors natural habitat are the rocky ledges and caves of the Great Barrier reef and New Caledonia. It is very important to provide proper places for this fish to hide. Caves, ledges, if given the proper overhang you can observe this fish swimming upside down.
Feeding: Zooplanktivore. Mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched brine (regular brine shrimp have almost no nutritional value), frozen preparations for carnivores (formula 1 for example), or fresh or frozen finely chopped marine fish flesh. Feed 1-2 times per day.
Stephen Zizman 9/12/2003
Oblique-lined Dottyback
Oblique-lined Dottyback (Cypho purpurescens)
Maximum length: 3 inches
Nano reef size: No less than 10 gallons
Aggresiveness: High
Current: Any
Hardiness: Incredibly hardy
Description: This genus contains two species. Male oblique-lined dottybacks are bright red overall with black on the posterior edge of the scales, a blue ring that partially encircles the eyes and one to three black ocelli (eye spots) on the dorsal fin. Females are gray anteriorly, with an area of orange in the middle of the body and yellow toward the tail. This species is found on the Great Barrier reef and east to Fiji. The male of the second Cypho species, which has yet to be formally described, is reddish-pink posteriorly, orange anteriorly, with blue trim on the scales, tiny blue spots on the head, a blue ring partially encircling the eye and lacks the eye spot(s) on the dorsal fin. This species has been reported from northern Indonesia, the Philippines, Taiwan and the Ryukus.
Behavior: This colorful little dottyback has an aggressive nature. Do not keep it with any other red similarly shaped fishes. other dottybacks, or other small fishes in a confined tank or barren substrate. It is safe with corals but will eat small tubeworms and ornamental shrimp. This fish should be kept singly unless housed in a larger tank (100 gallons or more) where it can be kept in pairs or small groups (1 male, 2 females). That being said, this fish can be kept with Damsels, larger wrasses and shrimp gobies as long as tank size permits and there are a profusion of hiding spaces.
Captive Care: It is very important to provide this fish with many hiding places. Males will usually adopt a preffered site as a ?lair?. Caves, crevices, and overhangs are a must for this fish to thrive.
Feeding: Carnivore. Finally chopped marine fish, crustacean flesh , mysid shrimp, and frozen preparations for carnivores (such as Formula #1). Feed once per day.
Here you can see the difference in the male and female. This is called sexual dimorphism.
Oblique-lined Dottyback (Cypho purpurescens)
Maximum length: 3 inches
Nano reef size: No less than 10 gallons
Aggresiveness: High
Current: Any
Hardiness: Incredibly hardy
Description: This genus contains two species. Male oblique-lined dottybacks are bright red overall with black on the posterior edge of the scales, a blue ring that partially encircles the eyes and one to three black ocelli (eye spots) on the dorsal fin. Females are gray anteriorly, with an area of orange in the middle of the body and yellow toward the tail. This species is found on the Great Barrier reef and east to Fiji. The male of the second Cypho species, which has yet to be formally described, is reddish-pink posteriorly, orange anteriorly, with blue trim on the scales, tiny blue spots on the head, a blue ring partially encircling the eye and lacks the eye spot(s) on the dorsal fin. This species has been reported from northern Indonesia, the Philippines, Taiwan and the Ryukus.
Behavior: This colorful little dottyback has an aggressive nature. Do not keep it with any other red similarly shaped fishes. other dottybacks, or other small fishes in a confined tank or barren substrate. It is safe with corals but will eat small tubeworms and ornamental shrimp. This fish should be kept singly unless housed in a larger tank (100 gallons or more) where it can be kept in pairs or small groups (1 male, 2 females). That being said, this fish can be kept with Damsels, larger wrasses and shrimp gobies as long as tank size permits and there are a profusion of hiding spaces.
Captive Care: It is very important to provide this fish with many hiding places. Males will usually adopt a preffered site as a ?lair?. Caves, crevices, and overhangs are a must for this fish to thrive.
Feeding: Carnivore. Finally chopped marine fish, crustacean flesh , mysid shrimp, and frozen preparations for carnivores (such as Formula #1). Feed once per day.
Here you can see the difference in the male and female. This is called sexual dimorphism.
Royal Gramma
Photo by: Clark Anderson/Aquaimages
Scientific Name
Gramma loreto
Average Size
3 inches
Nano Reef Size
7 gallon minimum
Aggressiveness
Peaceful
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, this is a good fish for beginners
Behavior
The Royal Gramma will get along well with other peaceful tank mates. When introduced it will find a cave in the rockwork to call home. From that point on it will defend it's home by opening it's mouth very wide in a threatening gesture to ward of intruders. They tend to be shy fish and will spend most of their time hidden, though there are exceptions depending on the personality of the fish.
Feeding
This fish will accept most meaty and flake foods. Rotating the types of food you feed is a good idea, this will keep the fish from becoming picky.
Description
The Royal Gramma is a beautifully colored fish. The front half of the fish is a deep purple that fades into a bright yellow in the middle of the fish. It has a black line that streaks through the eye. This fish should not be confused with the Bi-color Pseudochromis, which has a similar color pattern.
The Royal Gramma is found in the Caribbean region of the Atlantic Ocean. It has been bred in captivity, but is also wild caught. It is a very hardy fish and very disease resistant. The Royal Gramma is from the Grammidae family. All fish from the Grammidae family are Basslets. However, the Bicolor Pseudochromis aka Royal Dottyback is from the Pseudochromidae family.
Photo by: Clark Anderson/Aquaimages
Scientific Name
Gramma loreto
Average Size
3 inches
Nano Reef Size
7 gallon minimum
Aggressiveness
Peaceful
Current
Any
Hardiness
Good, this is a good fish for beginners
Behavior
The Royal Gramma will get along well with other peaceful tank mates. When introduced it will find a cave in the rockwork to call home. From that point on it will defend it's home by opening it's mouth very wide in a threatening gesture to ward of intruders. They tend to be shy fish and will spend most of their time hidden, though there are exceptions depending on the personality of the fish.
Feeding
This fish will accept most meaty and flake foods. Rotating the types of food you feed is a good idea, this will keep the fish from becoming picky.
Description
The Royal Gramma is a beautifully colored fish. The front half of the fish is a deep purple that fades into a bright yellow in the middle of the fish. It has a black line that streaks through the eye. This fish should not be confused with the Bi-color Pseudochromis, which has a similar color pattern.
The Royal Gramma is found in the Caribbean region of the Atlantic Ocean. It has been bred in captivity, but is also wild caught. It is a very hardy fish and very disease resistant. The Royal Gramma is from the Grammidae family. All fish from the Grammidae family are Basslets. However, the Bicolor Pseudochromis aka Royal Dottyback is from the Pseudochromidae family.
William Garner 7/10/2003
Bluespot Jawfish
Bluespot Jawfish (Opistognathi rosenblatti)
Average Size: 3-4 inches
Nano Reef Size: 10 Gallon minimum for one fish. A 20 long would be ideal and if attempting a pair at least a 40 breeder would be a good choice to limit aggression.
Aggressiveness/Territorial: Moderately aggressive towards smaller fishes and invertebrates that get too close to its burrow. Highly aggressive towards members of its own species ? keep singly or in groups only in a very large tank with lots of room on the substrate for multiple specimens. 2 square feet per fish is a minimum if keeping multiple bluespots. Sight barriers may help curb aggression as well as providing all jawfish with lots of building materials to keep them occupied.
Current: Low to medium.
Hardiness: Hardy once established but suffer from collection, shipping and mysterious ailments (the dreaded BSJ - Blue Spot Jawfish disease). Quarantine is a must of term no less than 3 weeks to ensure fish is healthy and eating. Copper is not recommended for jawfish. They sometimes suffer from intestinal parasites - if the fish is eating well and not putting on weight consider a commercial de-worming product (HexAMit works well). Blue Spot Jawfish sometimes come down with a malady that resembles brooklynella in clowns - no definitive cure or cause is known at this time and a thorough quarantine is the best preventative with new specimens.
Behavior: Will spend much of its time either rearranging its den or looking for food and danger. Will venture from its home to look for building materials and will even steal them from neighboring jawfish residences prompting a gill flaring display and sometimes a tussle. When not building they hover above their burrows peering in every direction for a snack or a potential jawfish snacker.
Feeding: Meaty foods, commercial preparations. Feed often and a varied diet. Like their more docile cousins the Pearlys, these jawfish need to be fed several times a day for optimal health and can decline quickly if they stop eating.
Description: Head an upper body are a brownish yellow shading to a orange yellow towards the front. Rear of body is a brownish blue and entire body is covered in electric blue spots. Males will change to a flat white color on the back half of their body during breeding season. Eyes are orange with large black pupils.
Notes: All jawfish are deceptively fast swimmers and can jump out of the smallest opening in a tank. Once settled in they are less likely to jump but a sealed tank or at least eggcrate is recommended to keep them off the carpet.
Bluespots are collected from the Sea of Cortez. They live at the base of steep rocky cliffs in deep water.
Bluespot Jawfish (Opistognathi rosenblatti)
Average Size: 3-4 inches
Nano Reef Size: 10 Gallon minimum for one fish. A 20 long would be ideal and if attempting a pair at least a 40 breeder would be a good choice to limit aggression.
Aggressiveness/Territorial: Moderately aggressive towards smaller fishes and invertebrates that get too close to its burrow. Highly aggressive towards members of its own species ? keep singly or in groups only in a very large tank with lots of room on the substrate for multiple specimens. 2 square feet per fish is a minimum if keeping multiple bluespots. Sight barriers may help curb aggression as well as providing all jawfish with lots of building materials to keep them occupied.
Current: Low to medium.
Hardiness: Hardy once established but suffer from collection, shipping and mysterious ailments (the dreaded BSJ - Blue Spot Jawfish disease). Quarantine is a must of term no less than 3 weeks to ensure fish is healthy and eating. Copper is not recommended for jawfish. They sometimes suffer from intestinal parasites - if the fish is eating well and not putting on weight consider a commercial de-worming product (HexAMit works well). Blue Spot Jawfish sometimes come down with a malady that resembles brooklynella in clowns - no definitive cure or cause is known at this time and a thorough quarantine is the best preventative with new specimens.
Behavior: Will spend much of its time either rearranging its den or looking for food and danger. Will venture from its home to look for building materials and will even steal them from neighboring jawfish residences prompting a gill flaring display and sometimes a tussle. When not building they hover above their burrows peering in every direction for a snack or a potential jawfish snacker.
Feeding: Meaty foods, commercial preparations. Feed often and a varied diet. Like their more docile cousins the Pearlys, these jawfish need to be fed several times a day for optimal health and can decline quickly if they stop eating.
Description: Head an upper body are a brownish yellow shading to a orange yellow towards the front. Rear of body is a brownish blue and entire body is covered in electric blue spots. Males will change to a flat white color on the back half of their body during breeding season. Eyes are orange with large black pupils.
Notes: All jawfish are deceptively fast swimmers and can jump out of the smallest opening in a tank. Once settled in they are less likely to jump but a sealed tank or at least eggcrate is recommended to keep them off the carpet.
Bluespots are collected from the Sea of Cortez. They live at the base of steep rocky cliffs in deep water.
Michael Peterson 8/23/2003
Firefish
Photo by: CELERY
Scientific Name
Nemateleotris magnifica
This is a small fish with beautiful fluorescent markings around the eyes. They are easy to keep, sometimes very shy, and the perfect candidate for a peaceful reef tank.
Identification
This fish is torpedo-shaped with a body colored light pink, which fades into deep red or orange-red toward the tail. The upper and lower lobes of the tail are dark, almost black, and there are two dark stripes that form a V extend on to the soft dorsal and anal fins, respectively. The dorsal is with extended first dorsal rays & are often flicked.
Size
3 inches maximum though most specimens only reach 2.5 inches
Nano reef size
5 gallons and up
Aggressiveness
Peaceful to all other animals except conspecifics. Needs only passive tank mates (passive gobies and blennies, small jawfish, and fish that tend to ignore other small fish like Chromis). Dottybacks, dwarf angels, damsels, wrasses, hawks, puffers, and triggers would be in most cases too much for these fish. Large anemones may eat them. They are extremely intolerant of others in the same genus. It is best to keep singly or male/female pairs. Groups can be made of only 5 fish or more, but each fish needs 20 gal each and so are unsuitable for nano reefs.
Current
They dont really mind how strong the current is, but do need the current to sweep food past their bolt holes at which they pick at.
Hardiness
Easy- This fish is easy to care for. It could be a great first fish in the tank (provided perfect water quality & proper cycling) and will be less shy than if it came to an established tank with larger fish.
Selection
The ideal size to get is between 1.5-2 inches. Look for fish with no rapid breathing, clear fins and eyes, and vibrant colors. When there are a group in the store, they may fight or nip each other so torn fins are often seen. This should not be a concern, as their fins will grow back once they are in a healthy environment with a good diet. It is hard to tell the difference between male and female but the length of their dorsal fin may be different.
Acclimation
Basic temperature and salinity acclimation will do just fine with this fish. Turn off tank lights or cover the tank the first day may calm them down and come out sooner. They do need a hiding place to feel safe, especially when they are just introduced to a tank.
Feeding
They may not eat at first, but once settled, would eat everything including flake and frozen food. They have small mouths, so fresh or frozen food need to be chopped into tiny pieces for them to eat. Live or frozen brine shrimp is the best to get them eating first. They like to stay near the bottom of the tank, close to their bolt hole, only come out to eat food drifting past them. As they rarely come to the water surface or event to the upper part of the tank, flakes need to be soaked in tank water when you need to target feed the fish. They especially like small crustaceans like brine and mysis shrimp but would learn to eat many meaty foods. Feed a small amount of food at least twice a day.
Behavior
They sleep in their boltholes found between the base of the LR and the sandbed. This fish darts into its bolt hole the second the lights are of. It's usually out immediately after the lights come on in the morning. If not, it shoots out as soon as food starts floating around the tank. They use their long dorsal fins to lock themselves into the rock at night. If there are no aggressive tankmates they may stay out quite a bit. This fish likes to stay near a bolthole, especially when other fish are present. Make sure the tank is covered. Firefish are great jumpers and can get out of any hole in the top of the tank. Many people lose their firefish this way. They may stay at the bottom of the tank most of the time, but when chased or startled, they would jump! They keep to themselves even at feeding time, waiting for food to drift their way. Any movement in the front of the tank (or hand in the tank) may startle them, and they will dart back to their bolthole. This fish has quick little darting movements (fish in this genus and close relatives are sometimes called Dartfish) and will flick its long dorsal ray. They like to hover in a head up tail down orientation in the current, usually near the bottom.
Disease and Treatment
They are very tolerant of disease and may even recover with no treatment. They may get ich and garlic treatment seems to work. It is also reported that they could get Lymphocystis and recover within a week without any treatment.
Note: This information is composed based on personal experiences from members of Aqualink, Aquarium Fish Magazine September 2002, and The Complete Book of the Marine Aquarium by Vincent B. Hargreaves
Photo by: CELERY
Scientific Name
Nemateleotris magnifica
This is a small fish with beautiful fluorescent markings around the eyes. They are easy to keep, sometimes very shy, and the perfect candidate for a peaceful reef tank.
Identification
This fish is torpedo-shaped with a body colored light pink, which fades into deep red or orange-red toward the tail. The upper and lower lobes of the tail are dark, almost black, and there are two dark stripes that form a V extend on to the soft dorsal and anal fins, respectively. The dorsal is with extended first dorsal rays & are often flicked.
Size
3 inches maximum though most specimens only reach 2.5 inches
Nano reef size
5 gallons and up
Aggressiveness
Peaceful to all other animals except conspecifics. Needs only passive tank mates (passive gobies and blennies, small jawfish, and fish that tend to ignore other small fish like Chromis). Dottybacks, dwarf angels, damsels, wrasses, hawks, puffers, and triggers would be in most cases too much for these fish. Large anemones may eat them. They are extremely intolerant of others in the same genus. It is best to keep singly or male/female pairs. Groups can be made of only 5 fish or more, but each fish needs 20 gal each and so are unsuitable for nano reefs.
Current
They dont really mind how strong the current is, but do need the current to sweep food past their bolt holes at which they pick at.
Hardiness
Easy- This fish is easy to care for. It could be a great first fish in the tank (provided perfect water quality & proper cycling) and will be less shy than if it came to an established tank with larger fish.
Selection
The ideal size to get is between 1.5-2 inches. Look for fish with no rapid breathing, clear fins and eyes, and vibrant colors. When there are a group in the store, they may fight or nip each other so torn fins are often seen. This should not be a concern, as their fins will grow back once they are in a healthy environment with a good diet. It is hard to tell the difference between male and female but the length of their dorsal fin may be different.
Acclimation
Basic temperature and salinity acclimation will do just fine with this fish. Turn off tank lights or cover the tank the first day may calm them down and come out sooner. They do need a hiding place to feel safe, especially when they are just introduced to a tank.
Feeding
They may not eat at first, but once settled, would eat everything including flake and frozen food. They have small mouths, so fresh or frozen food need to be chopped into tiny pieces for them to eat. Live or frozen brine shrimp is the best to get them eating first. They like to stay near the bottom of the tank, close to their bolt hole, only come out to eat food drifting past them. As they rarely come to the water surface or event to the upper part of the tank, flakes need to be soaked in tank water when you need to target feed the fish. They especially like small crustaceans like brine and mysis shrimp but would learn to eat many meaty foods. Feed a small amount of food at least twice a day.
Behavior
They sleep in their boltholes found between the base of the LR and the sandbed. This fish darts into its bolt hole the second the lights are of. It's usually out immediately after the lights come on in the morning. If not, it shoots out as soon as food starts floating around the tank. They use their long dorsal fins to lock themselves into the rock at night. If there are no aggressive tankmates they may stay out quite a bit. This fish likes to stay near a bolthole, especially when other fish are present. Make sure the tank is covered. Firefish are great jumpers and can get out of any hole in the top of the tank. Many people lose their firefish this way. They may stay at the bottom of the tank most of the time, but when chased or startled, they would jump! They keep to themselves even at feeding time, waiting for food to drift their way. Any movement in the front of the tank (or hand in the tank) may startle them, and they will dart back to their bolthole. This fish has quick little darting movements (fish in this genus and close relatives are sometimes called Dartfish) and will flick its long dorsal ray. They like to hover in a head up tail down orientation in the current, usually near the bottom.
Disease and Treatment
They are very tolerant of disease and may even recover with no treatment. They may get ich and garlic treatment seems to work. It is also reported that they could get Lymphocystis and recover within a week without any treatment.
Note: This information is composed based on personal experiences from members of Aqualink, Aquarium Fish Magazine September 2002, and The Complete Book of the Marine Aquarium by Vincent B. Hargreaves
Pearly Jawfish
Pearly Jawfish (Opistognathi aurifrons)
Average Size: 2-3 inches
Nano Reef Size: 10 gallons or larger, a pair could be kept in a 20 long with a deep mixed substrate. Tank should be large enough to accommodate a deep rubble/sand bed and wide enough to let them have enough space to construct their own den.
Aggressiveness/Territorial: Usually one to a burrow unless they are spawning. They live in colonies in the wild that might remind one of the terrestrial prairie dog with dozens of little yellow heads peeking around and disappearing in a flash.
Current: Low to medium. These fish will not swim in the open water often spending most of their time working on their burrow or hovering above it.
Hardiness: Moderately hardy - these fish do not always ship well and are more readily available during warmer months. Quarantine is definitely recommended and they are susceptible to the normal range of marine parasites but respond fairly well to common treatments. Copper is NOT recommended as a treatment for parasites with jawfish.
Behavior: Spends large parts of the daylight hours rearranging its den. These fish are found in rubble/sand zones in the tropical Atlantic and Caribbean and dig their lairs in the substrate. In their natural habitat they are found in waters ranging from as little as 6ft to as much as 100ft. They will search out and acquire bits of rubble, shell, gravel and other materials to reinforce the inside and pile at the mouth of their burrow. Make sure the fish has a good mixed substrate to work with and consider putting additional ?building materials? scattered around to keep them busy. When not building they can often be seen hovering as much as a foot or more over their den looking for food or predators. At signs of danger they will dart back into their hole with amazing speed! Likewise they will shoot out into the water column to pluck bits of food and may take it from the surface once they feel comfortable. A happy jawfish is one with a secure home and no big scary fishes! Large fishes may scare them into hiding in their den almost indefinitely and they may not get enough to eat out of fear.
Feeding: Meaty foods, commercial formulas - adapt readily to captive fare. A good balanced marine pellet or flake formula can form staple with occasional feedings of mysis, clam or squid finely chopped. Jawfish have a rapid metabolism and feeding at least 2 meals a day is recommended.
Description: A silvery bluish body with head and anterior dorsal fin being a golden yellow. Some specimens may have a pair of small black dots on their jaw.
Notes: Make sure any live rock structures you have in your tank are secure and sitting on the glass or braced so that they will not shift as the jawfish excavates. Some reports of placing a small plastic bowl ,overturned, with a hole in the bottom in the place you want the jawfish to build its burrow. Cover the bowl with rubble, sand, and gravel and when introducing the jawfish place the netted specimen over the hole so it will swim in. they should take to this den in short order and begin building his little fortress.
Pearly jawfish will spawn in captivity and are mouth brooders. Few reports of captive raising of fry are reported among hobbyists but they have been raised in the past by commercial aquaculture companies.
Pearly Jawfish (Opistognathi aurifrons)
Average Size: 2-3 inches
Nano Reef Size: 10 gallons or larger, a pair could be kept in a 20 long with a deep mixed substrate. Tank should be large enough to accommodate a deep rubble/sand bed and wide enough to let them have enough space to construct their own den.
Aggressiveness/Territorial: Usually one to a burrow unless they are spawning. They live in colonies in the wild that might remind one of the terrestrial prairie dog with dozens of little yellow heads peeking around and disappearing in a flash.
Current: Low to medium. These fish will not swim in the open water often spending most of their time working on their burrow or hovering above it.
Hardiness: Moderately hardy - these fish do not always ship well and are more readily available during warmer months. Quarantine is definitely recommended and they are susceptible to the normal range of marine parasites but respond fairly well to common treatments. Copper is NOT recommended as a treatment for parasites with jawfish.
Behavior: Spends large parts of the daylight hours rearranging its den. These fish are found in rubble/sand zones in the tropical Atlantic and Caribbean and dig their lairs in the substrate. In their natural habitat they are found in waters ranging from as little as 6ft to as much as 100ft. They will search out and acquire bits of rubble, shell, gravel and other materials to reinforce the inside and pile at the mouth of their burrow. Make sure the fish has a good mixed substrate to work with and consider putting additional ?building materials? scattered around to keep them busy. When not building they can often be seen hovering as much as a foot or more over their den looking for food or predators. At signs of danger they will dart back into their hole with amazing speed! Likewise they will shoot out into the water column to pluck bits of food and may take it from the surface once they feel comfortable. A happy jawfish is one with a secure home and no big scary fishes! Large fishes may scare them into hiding in their den almost indefinitely and they may not get enough to eat out of fear.
Feeding: Meaty foods, commercial formulas - adapt readily to captive fare. A good balanced marine pellet or flake formula can form staple with occasional feedings of mysis, clam or squid finely chopped. Jawfish have a rapid metabolism and feeding at least 2 meals a day is recommended.
Description: A silvery bluish body with head and anterior dorsal fin being a golden yellow. Some specimens may have a pair of small black dots on their jaw.
Notes: Make sure any live rock structures you have in your tank are secure and sitting on the glass or braced so that they will not shift as the jawfish excavates. Some reports of placing a small plastic bowl ,overturned, with a hole in the bottom in the place you want the jawfish to build its burrow. Cover the bowl with rubble, sand, and gravel and when introducing the jawfish place the netted specimen over the hole so it will swim in. they should take to this den in short order and begin building his little fortress.
Pearly jawfish will spawn in captivity and are mouth brooders. Few reports of captive raising of fry are reported among hobbyists but they have been raised in the past by commercial aquaculture companies.
Michael Peterson 8/23/2003
Six Line Wrasse
Photo by: rackfokus
Scientific Name
Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
Nano Reef Size
10 gallon minimum
Agressiveness
Peaceful
Current
Any, very adaptable
Hardiness
A medium difficulty fish for aquarists with at least one years experience.
Behavior
Peaceful among groups with only one male and many females. The Six Line Wrasse is a curious rock dwelling fish who always seems interested in its surroundings. It will act aggressively towards slow moving or easily intimidated fish. It normally hides within small caves or crevices if nervous. At night the Six Line will find a comfortable place within the rock caves to sleep. It is an exceptionally fast moving fish and catching it with a net is nearly impossible.
Feeding
Carnivorous, enjoys meaty foods (scallops, shrimp, fish, brine eggs, krill). The Six Line is an active invertebrate hunter that will attack animals as large as ornamental shrimp and sea urchins. They also remove unwanted pests such as bristle worms and mantis shrimp from aquariums. They will be very picky eaters when first introduced into an aquarium.
Description
The Six Line Wrasse is a long smooth fish with six purple and red stripes running horizontally down it?s body. Its belly is a light pink or peach. It is difficult to name a color that the Six Line doesn't have, its bright green tale red and white striped eyes make it an especially beautiful aquarium fish. It grows a maximum size of 3 inches, but most species in fish stores will sell them at closer to 1.5 inches.
Photo by: rackfokus
Scientific Name
Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
Nano Reef Size
10 gallon minimum
Agressiveness
Peaceful
Current
Any, very adaptable
Hardiness
A medium difficulty fish for aquarists with at least one years experience.
Behavior
Peaceful among groups with only one male and many females. The Six Line Wrasse is a curious rock dwelling fish who always seems interested in its surroundings. It will act aggressively towards slow moving or easily intimidated fish. It normally hides within small caves or crevices if nervous. At night the Six Line will find a comfortable place within the rock caves to sleep. It is an exceptionally fast moving fish and catching it with a net is nearly impossible.
Feeding
Carnivorous, enjoys meaty foods (scallops, shrimp, fish, brine eggs, krill). The Six Line is an active invertebrate hunter that will attack animals as large as ornamental shrimp and sea urchins. They also remove unwanted pests such as bristle worms and mantis shrimp from aquariums. They will be very picky eaters when first introduced into an aquarium.
Description
The Six Line Wrasse is a long smooth fish with six purple and red stripes running horizontally down it?s body. Its belly is a light pink or peach. It is difficult to name a color that the Six Line doesn't have, its bright green tale red and white striped eyes make it an especially beautiful aquarium fish. It grows a maximum size of 3 inches, but most species in fish stores will sell them at closer to 1.5 inches.
Matt Sander
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I like having my black/white perc. clown fishes in my nano. They like to hang out in the front part of the tank and hardly go towards the back. I can always see them there. And everytime i walk by the tank, they will shoot towards the surface thinking i'm going to feed them. They are very friendly and they will peck food right off your fingertips.
how big is the nano? i would suggest gobies. they can be pretty small, and their natural habit of perching and living in a single coral means they don't need much space. Clown gobies are great examples. they usually get no larger than 1'1/2, and can be very uniquely colored. i would say the ultimate nano fish would be the flaming fin goby, we see them imported occasionally and are pretty rare. they are less than half an inch long, white speckled body, with brilliantly colored "flamin fins." Ill try to get a pic.
here's a lnk with a pic of the Flaming Prawn Goby. I think this is what he is talking about. http://www.vividaquariums.com/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=01-2744-10
