Bryopsis fluconazole what dose?

[pikachux3]

got the start to bryopsis of one of my zoas

anyone try the the micro dose of fluconzole? I saw a thread on reef2reef about it

not sure exactly how much to dose but I got a 40g breeder and I put in one capsule to see if it does anything

turned off carbon

kept uv running cuz fighting dinos

can anyone weigh in?

 

[Roie]

Are you using reef flux? For that it’s 1 capsule per 10 g. What brand are you using?

 

[joseserrano]

I’d just pull that off. Not worth dosing whole tank for that. Reduce nutrient’s as well

 

[JojosReef]

I've got Flux Rx running right now in my IM 40g at 80mg/gal. That's 4x the dose for bryopsis, because I'm trying to knock out Valonia. So far, no ill effects on any corals/inverts/fish, but I also make sure to keep nitrates in the positive and am running dual air stones for the time being. Also adding PNS Probio intermittently. On Day 10 or so now, and the Valonia is greying out. The little bit of GHA I had has withered. Ulva is looking worse for wear. My macros are dying, except for codium, but I already trimmed and put aside frags in QT for replacement.

I would run it at 20mg/gal as indicated. Bryopsis is known to persist until the last cell is killed. What do you have in your tank that might be at risk?

 

[pikachux3]

Are you using reef flux? For that it’s 1 capsule per 10 g. What brand are you using?

Yes using reef flux

I’d just pull that off. Not worth dosing whole tank for that. Reduce nutrient’s as well

Going thru some mild Dino’s so need to up my nutrients, I would like to kill it completely so it doesn’t come back if there’s no major downsides for dosing the medicine

I've got Flux Rx running right now in my IM 40g at 80mg/gal. That's 4x the dose for bryopsis, because I'm trying to knock out Valonia. So far, no ill effects on any corals/inverts/fish, but I also make sure to keep nitrates in the positive and am running dual air stones for the time being. Also adding PNS Probio intermittently. On Day 10 or so now, and the Valonia is greying out. The little bit of GHA I had has withered. Ulva is looking worse for wear. My macros are dying, except for codium, but I already trimmed and put aside frags in QT for replacement.

I would run it at 20mg/gal as indicated. Bryopsis is known to persist until the last cell is killed. What do you have in your tank that might be at risk?

I have a tiger pistol shrimp, pin cushion urchin, 2 clown fish, 4 chromis, 2 bengal cardinal, 1 clown goby and 1 yellow watchman.

got lots of chaeto growing in sump. So that might be at risk. Some bubble algae has actually been growing pretty fast in my tank too, should I 4x dose? I’m afraid if the chaeto dies my tank will get out of whack. running no skimmer

 

[pikachux3]

FTS

 

[Roie]

View attachment 109192
FTS

Good thing is that it won’t affect your live stock, but your chaeto is probably gonna take a hit. It may be different, but my chaeto died when I dosed reef flux. The meds work on GHA and byropsis, not sure on the other stuff like dinos and green bubble algae. For bubble algae try an emerald crab and for Dino’s look up dosing with hydrogen peroxide. Don’t up the dose of the reef flux because I’m not sure if it’s gonna do what you want.

 

[treeside]

In my experience, 2-3x's dose for bryopsis and hair algae. Bubble algae for me needed 4x's dose. Personally, it took me around 2 weeks to kill everything off. So something I would consider since you just have to leave it alone and do its thing. Also, I would definitely take the chaeto out cause it will die off and add more nutrients to the tank. Also would do a couple water changes after treatment before introducing the chaeto back to the system

 

[JojosReef]

Agree with the above.

For dinos, best thing is to get a positive ID on it first. If you have a cheap microscope you can suck some up and get an ID on it. If ostreopsis, you can just use UV--they are nighttime swimmer. If prorocentrum, UV can help but might not wipe them out as they are only partial swimmers. If amphidinium, you'll have to try something else like outcompeting them. Some ways people do that is by adding a bunch of biodiversity all at once, like gulf rock/rubble/sand/mud. Another approach is to dose silicon to up the diatom population. I prefer the former approach, because anything else just leaves space for the dinos or other bad stuff to come back.

 

[pikachux3]

Agree with the above.

For dinos, best thing is to get a positive ID on it first. If you have a cheap microscope you can suck some up and get an ID on it. If ostreopsis, you can just use UV--they are nighttime swimmer. If prorocentrum, UV can help but might not wipe them out as they are only partial swimmers. If amphidinium, you'll have to try something else like outcompeting them. Some ways people do that is by adding a bunch of biodiversity all at once, like gulf rock/rubble/sand/mud. Another approach is to dose silicon to up the diatom population. I prefer the former approach, because anything else just leaves space for the dinos or other bad stuff to come back.

Not sure which dinos it is but I beat it before 2-3 months ago pretty quickly by overfeeding to the point of bacterial cloudy bloom and UV sterilizer haha and dosing brightwell sponge excel.

I will probably up feeding not to the point of a bloom this time around.