Chuy’s Budget Noob Tank

JohnBRZ

New member
Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Messages
197
Likes
114
Points
0
Location
Fountain Valley
#21
just pull out the large piece and get a thin striped hermit crab. mine take care of all the GHA and turf algae in my 14g. warning- he also ate all my astraea snail but keep the tank clean.
you could also try mollies but I personally don't have experience with them in saltwater tank
tang is the best in term of fish but you'll need a larger tank
 

Reef_loco

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
135
Likes
33
Points
6
#22
In all honesty, I think your lights are adding to the GHA. I would get a used Kessil or Prime before using those lights. The LED’s are not quality and I can almost guarantee they are putting out the wrong spectrum. Maybe try turning down your whites more and if you can find any, get some Mexican turbo snails. Those guys will mow through just about any GHA.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2023
Messages
77
Likes
41
Points
0
Location
San Pedro
#23
In all honesty, I think your lights are adding to the GHA. I would get a used Kessil or Prime before using those lights. The LED’s are not quality and I can almost guarantee they are putting out the wrong spectrum. Maybe try turning down your whites more and if you can find any, get some Mexican turbo snails. Those guys will mow through just about any GHA.
Those Orbit IC's are fine, just a bit weak if anything. I have used those for fill lights and did not have any algae issues. If your other fish are fine than it is not your water chemistry that is killing your blennys. Ten Alk might be a bit too high for a tank that small, remember things change fast and the swings will make your coral unhappy. Maybe dose less but more times a day if you are doing it by hand anyway. That way you will have a bit more stability. A Tuxedo urchin worked well for me, but you won’t have any coraline left either.
 
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
343
Likes
196
Points
8
Location
Alhambra
#25
just pull out the large piece and get a thin striped hermit crab. mine take care of all the GHA and turf algae in my 14g. warning- he also ate all my astraea snail but keep the tank clean.
you could also try mollies but I personally don't have experience with them in saltwater tank
tang is the best in term of fish but you'll need a larger tank
Will look into those but I just added a emerald crab to help with the bubble algae I just got too and I was wondering if there was a small tang I could get just to help get it low and then rebind it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
343
Likes
196
Points
8
Location
Alhambra
#26
Those Orbit IC's are fine, just a bit weak if anything. I have used those for fill lights and did not have any algae issues. If your other fish are fine than it is not your water chemistry that is killing your blennys. Ten Alk might be a bit too high for a tank that small, remember things change fast and the swings will make your coral unhappy. Maybe dose less but more times a day if you are doing it by hand anyway. That way you will have a bit more stability. A Tuxedo urchin worked well for me, but you won’t have any coraline left either.
I dose 5ml by hand every day all for one
And you’re saying it’s only high because of an all swing high right? What’s worst a low alk swing or a high?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2023
Messages
77
Likes
41
Points
0
Location
San Pedro
#29
I dose 5ml by hand every day all for one
And you’re saying it’s only high because of an all swing high right? What’s worst a low alk swing or a high?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
High swings are worse. You are supercharging your system. So swings can more intensely affect your corals. NSW is around 7ish. I run mine at 8.2 in my 40g.
 

dontavo27

Member
2020 Philanthropist
Supporter
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
1,457
Likes
624
Points
43
Location
Oak Park/ Westlake Village
My Tank Build
#30
I would turn down the blue To 60-70%, white down to 30-40% red and green down to 10%. Scrub the algae off as much as possible, and pick up up a good clean up crew, 5 turbo snails, 15-20 smaller snails, like cerith, astrea, and IMO every time I go bare bottom on a tank I’m not paying much attention to, I always have algae issues, but that’s just my opinion.

we have about the same size set up, I started mine about 2 months ago, with a good clean up crew, zero algae issues. I’m also dosing AFR manually a little less then 5ml mark. My kessil is set at the lowest setting for now.
 

drexel

New member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
1,492
Likes
1,312
Points
8
Location
SFV
#31
It's true that nano tanks can be difficult, but they don't have to be if you keep on top of them. Here's the thing with all reef tanks, the fundamentals haven't changed at all, but now we have better tools and we get more detail into each aspect. For nano tanks, the two main issues are heat and salinity, but with ATO's and better heaters/controllers, those can be managed without any major issues besides dealing with ambient room temp.
So, I'll start with what I think works best for nano tanks and I won't sugar coat anything, keeping with the theme of your tank. :p I'm not sure about the history of your rock, but it doesn't look like there's much there in the way of microbial life and that's 90% of a tank's biology. But, with time and maybe seeding it with some seasoned rock/rubble from a trusted friend or with a little real ocean rock, will help establish some good stuff. Also, starting bare bottom is going to be a lot tougher in the beginning than using sand (seeded w/live sand). I also don't think your fish choice helped you much, as some of these fish require a lot of room or plenty of live foods, pods, micro fauna, etc... For nano tanks the best CUC are usally all snail-based crew with maybe one or two scarlet hermits. I like a mix of turbos (1 or 2 for your size) a few astraea, trochus and maybe a couple ceriths. I also wouldn't use any chemical filtration at this point, as you really need to build up your microbiome and chemicals works against that, especially in the beginning. I don't think employing a refugium at this stage is worth it and most likely not helping you at all, but just delaying establishing a healthy system. So back to your fish choices. The only two fish that work right now are the clown(s) and the neon goby, the rest are too specialized or simply too big or the wrong choice for your tank. Pipefish require an established tank with an endless supply of pods, micro-critters and there's no substituting their diet with artemia that's going to help them long term, they simply are a bad choice for your system in general. Trying to use fish for algae control in your tank is simply the wrong choice, as there are no fish that will be happy in your tank, that won't either die from stress or want to kill everything because they are too stressed from the cramped quarters.
So here's my approach to keeping nano tanks and also helping you get ahead long term. Start with your source water, either buy an RO sytem or buy water from a trusted LFS that has quality water, which is probably not many. I would use a 5 stage system at minimum, this would be a single membrane system, as you don't have to make very much water. I would use a hybrid filter set, which would give you the best water without spending a ton of money. I would use BRS sediment (GE, I think?), two universal carbon blocks, Dow 75 or 90gpd membrane, then use Spectrapure for the DI stages, specifically the megamaxcap, then the high capacity silica buster (color changing). The megamaxcap and the membrane would last the longest, so the only things you would need to change are the sediment, carbon blocks and the silica buster as needed. Next, I would choose a quality salt mix, despite what some may say, Tropic Marin Pro is still one of the best salts out there and my preferred choice. It's mixes up super fast and can be stored for a long time without any chemical/ion change at all. I would do a 15% water change weekly or bi-weekly based on your willingness or maintenance habits? I would also use TM All for Reef as your additive for replenishing your major and minor elements, it's simply one of the best things to happen to nano tanks. The water changes would be to correct any issues or for any elements that are building up or depleted. For the algae issue, I think elbow grease and the right snail mix will do the job, but it's going to take a while before it gets better, you just have to stick with it and ride it out. For fish, I would stick to fish that work in nano tanks, smaller gobies, clowns and smaller blennies, but not algae blennies or big herbivores. Take the fuge offline and remove all chemical filtration and rely on your elbow grease and snails to work on the algae. If you want to stick with a bare bottom, then I would get more live rock, not dry rock. You don't need much more, but a few nice pieces would go a long way in establishing a healthy tank. The lighting is fine, but I do agree that red and green should only be 5% max. I'm not a Blade fan, but I get their appeal, I just think they're overpriced. Luca from Quanta Lights will be releasing his fixture in May and I think it will be a great fixture for a lot of people, as he's the only one trying to use T5's and halides as his starting point for spectrum and coverage. He's truly trying to replicate the spectrum of a particular halide bulb and a mix of T5 bulbs, while trying to utilize the reflectors that make those lights the gold standard.
That's all I have for now, but there's tons more I can share, so ask away or simply ignore my post, as I have a habit of talking/typing for a while. ;) Go slow, stick to the basics/fundamentals and you'll be okay. Cheers!
 
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
343
Likes
196
Points
8
Location
Alhambra
#32
It's true that nano tanks can be difficult, but they don't have to be if you keep on top of them. Here's the thing with all reef tanks, the fundamentals haven't changed at all, but now we have better tools and we get more detail into each aspect. For nano tanks, the two main issues are heat and salinity, but with ATO's and better heaters/controllers, those can be managed without any major issues besides dealing with ambient room temp.
So, I'll start with what I think works best for nano tanks and I won't sugar coat anything, keeping with the theme of your tank. :p I'm not sure about the history of your rock, but it doesn't look like there's much there in the way of microbial life and that's 90% of a tank's biology. But, with time and maybe seeding it with some seasoned rock/rubble from a trusted friend or with a little real ocean rock, will help establish some good stuff. Also, starting bare bottom is going to be a lot tougher in the beginning than using sand (seeded w/live sand). I also don't think your fish choice helped you much, as some of these fish require a lot of room or plenty of live foods, pods, micro fauna, etc... For nano tanks the best CUC are usally all snail-based crew with maybe one or two scarlet hermits. I like a mix of turbos (1 or 2 for your size) a few astraea, trochus and maybe a couple ceriths. I also wouldn't use any chemical filtration at this point, as you really need to build up your microbiome and chemicals works against that, especially in the beginning. I don't think employing a refugium at this stage is worth it and most likely not helping you at all, but just delaying establishing a healthy system. So back to your fish choices. The only two fish that work right now are the clown(s) and the neon goby, the rest are too specialized or simply too big or the wrong choice for your tank. Pipefish require an established tank with an endless supply of pods, micro-critters and there's no substituting their diet with artemia that's going to help them long term, they simply are a bad choice for your system in general. Trying to use fish for algae control in your tank is simply the wrong choice, as there are no fish that will be happy in your tank, that won't either die from stress or want to kill everything because they are too stressed from the cramped quarters.
So here's my approach to keeping nano tanks and also helping you get ahead long term. Start with your source water, either buy an RO sytem or buy water from a trusted LFS that has quality water, which is probably not many. I would use a 5 stage system at minimum, this would be a single membrane system, as you don't have to make very much water. I would use a hybrid filter set, which would give you the best water without spending a ton of money. I would use BRS sediment (GE, I think?), two universal carbon blocks, Dow 75 or 90gpd membrane, then use Spectrapure for the DI stages, specifically the megamaxcap, then the high capacity silica buster (color changing). The megamaxcap and the membrane would last the longest, so the only things you would need to change are the sediment, carbon blocks and the silica buster as needed. Next, I would choose a quality salt mix, despite what some may say, Tropic Marin Pro is still one of the best salts out there and my preferred choice. It's mixes up super fast and can be stored for a long time without any chemical/ion change at all. I would do a 15% water change weekly or bi-weekly based on your willingness or maintenance habits? I would also use TM All for Reef as your additive for replenishing your major and minor elements, it's simply one of the best things to happen to nano tanks. The water changes would be to correct any issues or for any elements that are building up or depleted. For the algae issue, I think elbow grease and the right snail mix will do the job, but it's going to take a while before it gets better, you just have to stick with it and ride it out. For fish, I would stick to fish that work in nano tanks, smaller gobies, clowns and smaller blennies, but not algae blennies or big herbivores. Take the fuge offline and remove all chemical filtration and rely on your elbow grease and snails to work on the algae. If you want to stick with a bare bottom, then I would get more live rock, not dry rock. You don't need much more, but a few nice pieces would go a long way in establishing a healthy tank. The lighting is fine, but I do agree that red and green should only be 5% max. I'm not a Blade fan, but I get their appeal, I just think they're overpriced. Luca from Quanta Lights will be releasing his fixture in May and I think it will be a great fixture for a lot of people, as he's the only one trying to use T5's and halides as his starting point for spectrum and coverage. He's truly trying to replicate the spectrum of a particular halide bulb and a mix of T5 bulbs, while trying to utilize the reflectors that make those lights the gold standard.
That's all I have for now, but there's tons more I can share, so ask away or simply ignore my post, as I have a habit of talking/typing for a while. ;) Go slow, stick to the basics/fundamentals and you'll be okay. Cheers!
Hmmm why would you recommend turning off the fuge? It seems to be doing its job and has grown a base ball of chaeto into a football size
My red and greens are at 10% I believe?
The light is 18W max and 1 light has dim LED’s so I know it’s not putting out as much par as the other. I used some live rock that was established already in the tank when I bought it off a reefer on here, and I added some rock from my previous tank which was also running at the time of the switch so I think all my rock was pretty established in the tank? Although I notice more algae bloom on my rock and a lot less on the rock that I got with the tank. For fish, my pipe fish died and I currently have:
1 clown
1 neons blue goby
1 hector goby
1 cherry shrimp
1 emerald crab
3-4 hermits
2 turbos
All my other smaller snails died or were killed by the hermits



For salt, tropic marin pro is just too damn expensive. It hurt just to switch to coral pro

My LFS told me to do the lights off trick. Anyone recommend that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
343
Likes
196
Points
8
Location
Alhambra
#33
High swings are worse. You are supercharging your system. So swings can more intensely affect your corals. NSW is around 7ish. I run mine at 8.2 in my 40g.
I coral pro salt tho and at 25sg it’s got 11 alk I believe…. I’d have to run my salinity lower if I wanted to get lower alk from coral pro salt right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2023
Messages
77
Likes
41
Points
0
Location
San Pedro
#34
I coral pro salt tho and at 25sg it’s got 11 alk I believe…. I’d have to run my salinity lower if I wanted to get lower alk from coral pro salt right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nah, I would just run different salt. (slow change) I ran Brightwell Neo Marine for a while which I really liked. But now I am running Tropic Marin Bio-Actif reef salt. Which is their Pro Reef with Reef Actif mixed in. Reef Actif is a seaweed based mild organic carbon dosing. It runs about 7.8 at fresh mix. The downside or upside, is you have to use it in 24 hours because it has live biological additives. For me it is good because I can't get lazy about water changes. Once I make it I have to use it.
 

drexel

New member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
1,492
Likes
1,312
Points
8
Location
SFV
#35
As Speedo mentioned, you don't lower salinity to correct alkalinity or any other parameter, that's not how it works. In fact, when you run a lower salinity, all of your testing results should be altered/recalculated to match the salinity. Shoot for 35ppt or 1.026 specific gravity (give or take a point). You can add an acid to the freshly mixed water to lower alkalinity to match your tank's alk.
The reason I said to take the fuge offline is, at this point it's not really helping much and you want to have a measure of nutrients in your system. You have algae because you don't have enough herbivores (snails), as you can't control algae based on nutrient levels, that's not how they work. Algae will grow in zero nutrient water, as they aren't needed for them to survive and grow. Algae is really good at life, corals, not so much. In your size of tank, you're part of the CUC, plus the right mix of snails. I know your lights aren't strong, but if the percentage of red and green are high or elevated, then that spectrum can contribute to algae growth. I think Red Sea blue bucket is kind of like TM Pro in regards to parameters, but cheaper. If you want to continue the fuge, I would reduce the time it's on in order to keep a measure of nutrients. I would trade the hermits for some snails, then you don't have to worry about them murdering the snails.
 

Jimbo327

New member
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
1,029
Likes
738
Points
3
Location
Orange
#36
For a tank that size, I would stick with cheap but decent salt like Instant Ocean salt, and consistently water change. It will solve a lot of your problems from nutrient extort to keeping elements stable. This is why I suggested an AWC type of system, but if that is out of budget, then just every morning, take out a scoop of water from the tank, and then add a scoop of fresh saltwater into the tank. That's about it.
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2023
Messages
168
Likes
96
Points
0
#37
For a tank that size, I would stick with cheap but decent salt like Instant Ocean salt, and consistently water change. It will solve a lot of your problems from nutrient extort to keeping elements stable. This is why I suggested an AWC type of system, but if that is out of budget, then just every morning, take out a scoop of water from the tank, and then add a scoop of fresh saltwater into the tank. That's about it.
IO salt is great for this as it can be stored for a very long time and sits right around 9 alk at 35ppt. When I mix up the water for my 50g tank every week I make an extra 5g bucket for WC in the 20g. I use a 1g pitcher and just scoop some out and add some back. It takes less than 1min. if the water is already mixed.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
343
Likes
196
Points
8
Location
Alhambra
#38
As Speedo mentioned, you don't lower salinity to correct alkalinity or any other parameter, that's not how it works. In fact, when you run a lower salinity, all of your testing results should be altered/recalculated to match the salinity. Shoot for 35ppt or 1.026 specific gravity (give or take a point). You can add an acid to the freshly mixed water to lower alkalinity to match your tank's alk.
The reason I said to take the fuge offline is, at this point it's not really helping much and you want to have a measure of nutrients in your system. You have algae because you don't have enough herbivores (snails), as you can't control algae based on nutrient levels, that's not how they work. Algae will grow in zero nutrient water, as they aren't needed for them to survive and grow. Algae is really good at life, corals, not so much. In your size of tank, you're part of the CUC, plus the right mix of snails. I know your lights aren't strong, but if the percentage of red and green are high or elevated, then that spectrum can contribute to algae growth. I think Red Sea blue bucket is kind of like TM Pro in regards to parameters, but cheaper. If you want to continue the fuge, I would reduce the time it's on in order to keep a measure of nutrients. I would trade the hermits for some snails, then you don't have to worry about them murdering the snails.
What snails specifically would you recommend? I’m not good with the Cuc names

I can adjust the flow on my fuge and I have the light on a wifi plug. It’s a fijicube HOB.
I liked running it because a fuge is supposed to help with PH at night from what I understand.
Not going to lie, I don’t test my PH. My return pump is pointed towards the surface for the gas exchange but at night we close up the windows.
Again; I don’t test for PH so i don’t even know if it’s an issue for me or not lol

I will cut back on it a bit with light duration and flow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
343
Likes
196
Points
8
Location
Alhambra
#39
IO salt is great for this as it can be stored for a very long time and sits right around 9 alk at 35ppt. When I mix up the water for my 50g tank every week I make an extra 5g bucket for WC in the 20g. I use a 1g pitcher and just scoop some out and add some back. It takes less than 1min. if the water is already mixed.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I had just switched to coral pro from reef crystals and I noticed I got better poly extension from just about everything but I was dealing with other things too in the same moment so maybe reef crystals would actually work for me if I do things right lol but yeah I can do that.
Something that worries me about this is that I have a tunze ATo and every time I unplug and plug it back in for a water change it pumps water right away and i feel like if I do that every day, eventually it’s going to be messing with my salinity right? Idk if that made sense lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
343
Likes
196
Points
8
Location
Alhambra
#40
Nah, I would just run different salt. (slow change) I ran Brightwell Neo Marine for a while which I really liked. But now I am running Tropic Marin Bio-Actif reef salt. Which is their Pro Reef with Reef Actif mixed in. Reef Actif is a seaweed based mild organic carbon dosing. It runs about 7.8 at fresh mix. The downside or upside, is you have to use it in 24 hours because it has live biological additives. For me it is good because I can't get lazy about water changes. Once I make it I have to use it.
Sounds fancy and expensive if it’s tropic Marin lol I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for but it’s pricey lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Top