I could not figure out what’s happening on this sps (is it bacterial)

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#1
Can someone help me figure out what is going on on this sps?



parameters
alk 8.9
calc 440
mag 1425
phos 0.06
nitrate 0

I know nutrients are low but they always been that low. i will be starting moonshine method and I will be dosing nitrate. I have not added any frag for months.


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#2
the stn will start at the tips and soon after the base will start to go too. This is the 4th sps that started doing this. Here’s the closer pic of the tip stn.



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#3
here’s the other 2 that are doing this as well, I move them to the sandbed.





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Smite

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#5
Is the tissue getting really dark before it goes? I noticed that when I lost a bunch of pieces earlier this year, I believe to metals mostly Tin was detectable on my ICP. Have you sent out an ICP yet for the shine regimen?

How is your ph? I’ve suffered TN events during abnormally low ph drops at night as well. It’s been getting low due to all this heat and my house being closed up with the AC on. I had a couple pieces go last month. Usually coincides with sub 7.7 lows for me.
You’re looking into RMM so check out Andres witch hazel treatment on his website. It’s for treating TN issues due to bad bacteria strains. If you have FB you can search the treatment on the reef moonshiner page as well.

his handbook has a troubleshooting guide towards the end. Including suppressed ph issues if you feel that is a culprit.

feel for ya man. Hopefully you can get a concrete answer and take action. It sucks ti wonder what’s up, I’ve done it most this year
 
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#6
yeah the tissue gets a bit dark at least on 2 of them but as soon as the tissue goes algae start growing on them like right away. i just ordered the moonshine stuff with ICP. I have not calibrated my ph probe in a while so Im not really sure what it is right now but my apex say it’s from 7.8-8.07. I will calibrate tomoorw.

I was already looking into the witch hazel treatment but have to stop reading to do something else.

what really puzzle me is, this is happening on fast growing very hardy pieces and seems to be all similar type of acropora (tsa ape grape, tsa the fuzz, tsa bacardi party and RR starphire). I have a lot of tenius pieces and even have a frag of vivid insanity that seems to be doing all fine (knock on wood).


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Smite

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#7
Such a bummer, hopefully you figure it out. I have to say my Vivid Confetti and Tyree Pinky the Bear acro colonies went pretty quick. Hopefully the ICP can point you in the right direction. They've helped me catch faulty salinity pens and extinguished RODI filters even when my TDS was 0.
 

drexel

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#8
I think it's a combination of things and sometimes it takes a while for these things to affect the corals. I went through a series of TN issues that would randomly hit pieces, while others seemed unaffected. When they have that dark, dry look to. them, it's a combination of starvation (usually low prolonged nutrients), too much light and mini swings with alk and/or nutrients. I also agree with Smite that heavy metals are usually detectable during these events and low pH just pushes them over the edge.
Dosing a half ppm to 1ppm of NO3 nightly helps and getting your Po4 closer to 0.1ppm gives you a better buffer.
If you're not on FB, join just for the RM support group, Andre and others are always there to help other shiners. Also buy his color guide, I think it's only $5? I used to keep low residual nitrate levels, thinking that keeping it closer to NSW would be okay, but our tanks are so different than the natural reefs and we need to keep a "buffer" of nutrients available at all times, so I have a minimum of 10:1 (or slightly higher) nutrient range, nitrate to phosphate. A lot of people go even higher, which is fine. Don't get caught in the Redfield ration BS (yes, it's completely BS in regards to our tanks and has nothing to do with coral zooxanthellae), but do keep in mind that ranges regarding N:p are necessary, just not what people think.
Hopefully the ICP will give you some insight, but don't let that be the only deciding factor in how you approach this. Old school observation will always tell you everything.
Good luck and keep us posted. Smite and I are fellow shiners, so reach out if you have any questions?
 
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#10
Such a bummer, hopefully you figure it out. I have to say my Vivid Confetti and Tyree Pinky the Bear acro colonies went pretty quick. Hopefully the ICP can point you in the right direction. They've helped me catch faulty salinity pens and extinguished RODI filters even when my TDS was 0.
That is the weird thing about this, the hardy pieces are STN'ing and the pieces I thought are finicky are doing fine, my vivid confetti is doing well and colored up. I have several tenius pieces that are unaffected.
 
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#11
I think it's a combination of things and sometimes it takes a while for these things to affect the corals. I went through a series of TN issues that would randomly hit pieces, while others seemed unaffected. When they have that dark, dry look to. them, it's a combination of starvation (usually low prolonged nutrients), too much light and mini swings with alk and/or nutrients. I also agree with Smite that heavy metals are usually detectable during these events and low pH just pushes them over the edge.
Dosing a half ppm to 1ppm of NO3 nightly helps and getting your Po4 closer to 0.1ppm gives you a better buffer.
If you're not on FB, join just for the RM support group, Andre and others are always there to help other shiners. Also buy his color guide, I think it's only $5? I used to keep low residual nitrate levels, thinking that keeping it closer to NSW would be okay, but our tanks are so different than the natural reefs and we need to keep a "buffer" of nutrients available at all times, so I have a minimum of 10:1 (or slightly higher) nutrient range, nitrate to phosphate. A lot of people go even higher, which is fine. Don't get caught in the Redfield ration BS (yes, it's completely BS in regards to our tanks and has nothing to do with coral zooxanthellae), but do keep in mind that ranges regarding N:p are necessary, just not what people think.
Hopefully the ICP will give you some insight, but don't let that be the only deciding factor in how you approach this. Old school observation will always tell you everything.
Good luck and keep us posted. Smite and I are fellow shiners, so reach out if you have any questions?
 
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#12
I think you might be right, I have turned off the skimmer, trimmed the chaeto and I will try to feed the fish a little more though I just did a 10% WC a few days ago. I don't want to do too much right now, I watching it very closely. I will be dosing nitrate soon but I will be doing that in a very slow pace (should I be dosing phosphate too? My phosphate is usually at 0.06 to 0.08, I feel like I just need to feed more to raise phosphate).
 

drexel

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#14
I think you might be right, I have turned off the skimmer, trimmed the chaeto and I will try to feed the fish a little more though I just did a 10% WC a few days ago. I don't want to do too much right now, I watching it very closely. I will be dosing nitrate soon but I will be doing that in a very slow pace (should I be dosing phosphate too? My phosphate is usually at 0.06 to 0.08, I feel like I just need to feed more to raise phosphate).
I think your PO4 levels are fine, you just need to bring up nitrate some. I wouldn't wait to dose nitrates though, it's pretty straight forward and adding 1ppm (or less) each night will not cause any issues. You can add a few ppm at once and still be okay, but I think 1ppm or .5ppm is enough to get things rolling. Use James' Planted Tank calculator to figure the exact dosage for you tank size and strength. Found here >>>
James' Planted Tank Calculator, you'll choose potassium nitrate in the drop down menu, put your system's total water volume in and I would start with a stock solution with 100mL of RO. Just change the grams amount until you get 1mL equals 1ppm. You'll use lab or food grade sodium nitrate (potassium slightly less potent than sodium nitrate, but we're talking 1-2%). It's that simple.
 
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#15
I have just place an online for one of this, I will probably not going to get it until sometime next week. But I will be in huntington beach area tomorrow, I’m sure one of the stores around there will have some in stock.




Thank you for your detailed response, very much appreciated!


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drexel

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#16
I have just place an online for one of this, I will probably not going to get it until sometime next week. But I will be in huntington beach area tomorrow, I’m sure one of the stores around there will have some in stock.




Thank you for your detailed response, very much appreciated!


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That’s the stuff! I’ve also ordered food grade sodium nitrate from Amazon as well.
You’re welcome! We’ve picked one of the most difficult hobbies out there and we’ve barely scratched the surface of understanding what it takes to be successful. It’s a constant state of learning.


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Dipan00

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#18
Yeah im dealing with something similar. My PC Rainbow colony has been STN for a while now which is a super easy acro. While other acros have never looked better. My pain in the ass tenuises looks super happy and healthy. Not sure If I should be fighting the system with a fix when 95% of the acros look insane. Hopefully you can get it sorted.
 
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#19
Yeah, I dont mind loosing the acros I lost. Now my TGC starry nights is starting to STN at the tips and my SCOP frag have some algae growing on tips but no visible TN. I’m still hoping it’s just a low nutrient which I started fixing (I did not find any nitrate at the stores I visted today). The skimmer is off, I’m feeding fish more and I doubled the phyto dosing.

Thinking back now if it’s sometuing else, the last thing I added in the tank is some CUC from reefcleaners, yhat’s been about 2months now maybe 3.

water parameters
alk 8.47
calc 426
mag 1420

nitrate 0
phosphate 0.03


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#20
SCOP (excuse the bubble algae, another issue I need to fix) growing some algae on it

.


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