I want to do the 1 Gallon VASE tank!
- Thread starter Reefnoobie12
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Okay so I ended up with a bag of argonite, couple gallons of water out of the stores tank, a heater which I won't use because my ac is the same all day, 50/50 wave point led, a air pump and stone from Wal Mart and wallllllllahhhhhh it's all together lol all I need is a lid
*signing bonus in coral please*
*signing bonus in coral please*
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Looks good, its time to fully rinse the sand out over and over, use clean non tap water if you want. The tank can't have silt that will become suspended during full water changes
Poster Comptonreef on nr.com lost his reefbowl coral solely due to silting so bad it smothered coral every water change.
That light you picked looks really nice and seems very reef specific I googled some threads using it and I updated comments on my article about selecting pico reef lights based on this post where a new vase is being constructed. Thanks for the detailed input and build pics
We gotta get the vase where any type of disturbance doesn't kick up sand silt...just because it cleared today doesn't mean we are good, time to rinse about thirty times over and over until it can't be made silty.
So how does your lid work, is it tilted up and the airlines and heater cable are running over the lip of the vase
If you notice, the reef vase in your example link is doing that and it clearly isn't hurting, just stay on top of topoff. That setup is more likely a light topoff everyday setup, its whatever your reference dot shows.
Poster Comptonreef on nr.com lost his reefbowl coral solely due to silting so bad it smothered coral every water change.
That light you picked looks really nice and seems very reef specific I googled some threads using it and I updated comments on my article about selecting pico reef lights based on this post where a new vase is being constructed. Thanks for the detailed input and build pics
We gotta get the vase where any type of disturbance doesn't kick up sand silt...just because it cleared today doesn't mean we are good, time to rinse about thirty times over and over until it can't be made silty.
So how does your lid work, is it tilted up and the airlines and heater cable are running over the lip of the vase
If you notice, the reef vase in your example link is doing that and it clearly isn't hurting, just stay on top of topoff. That setup is more likely a light topoff everyday setup, its whatever your reference dot shows.
Ya definitely going to be an everyday top off, the two Lines just run under the ridge so their is about .5 inch exposed so air, but so I should drain the salt water that is in their now and just keep switching it with fresh rodi over and over until when u change the water nothing is lifted into the air?
*signing bonus in coral please*
*signing bonus in coral please*
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Sure or just do it in a bucket Nothing matters regarding bacteria in that sand. They w come when needed
When the tank can be changed fully and no silting occurs, get your first live rock stacks
They'll run your filter until the sand catches up. To make a five minute job out of clean your sand, take it all out of the pico and start over.
Clean out the inside of the pico w paper towels, and put the sand in some clean container and go blast it with a strong water hose and rinse it up fast. Tap water doesn't matter.
Final rinse is saltwater so there is no tap water in your pico
Refill with clean sw, now your tank is ready for live rock.
I see a little hack potential for your vase lid
cut two rounded cutouts in the sealing, so lines are incoming but the lid can be pressed down a little better, and will grab a little?
Ideal live rock is not gray boring live rock from a pet store marked cured, devoid of all growth and gray.
The first few chunks of live rock should be from stock like this, its undeniably cured. It doesn't even require a label at my lfs,cured is obvious
Buy only this kind of rock
you tell the employee how to bag it, not their way. bag it like a fish, wet, it's not like you are buying fifty lbs just make them comply with your wishes
buy rock that was submerged.
Take it home and put it in.
Temp issues are something to watch now as the bowl runs
If you swing, at any time, outside the range of 77-80 then expect a constant algae battle in two months for the life of the tank. Keeping it at 78 is important, this factors into bioload per gallon of water in pico reefs and is something to watch, especially overheating. Anything above 80 and the tank will slowly go eutrophic within a few months with coral death and algae abound. Hopefully that prediction heads off some troubles common in summertime
fan it if needed to keep 78. if I not mistaken the longest lifespan for an unheated tropical pico is one year, swings eventually get them. It's best to heat, but make sure ambient temps keep the reef cool unassisted, then you are set for all seasons
B
If anything my tank is going to be cold because my room is freezing, Hahah okay! Actually I got salt water out of the stores tank so I could start the bacteria process quicker,I'll rinse it out a couple times with tap then as soon as I am done with that I'll readd salt water I have enough left to get rid of the water that is in their now and add more after I have cleaned the sand
*signing bonus in coral please*
*signing bonus in coral please*
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Sure that steps it up a notch you are not accused of going too slow
Heavy feeding of high quality frozen marine foods, decapsulated live brine, something remarkable you can link as research is how it needs to be fed
not entry level reefing...Those corals test your ability and the tanks ability very early on, get them out two months where they inflate everyday, feed from active polyps and retain that mass and you have accomplished something
Heavy feeding of high quality frozen marine foods, decapsulated live brine, something remarkable you can link as research is how it needs to be fed
not entry level reefing...Those corals test your ability and the tanks ability very early on, get them out two months where they inflate everyday, feed from active polyps and retain that mass and you have accomplished something
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that sounds like a plan, it will require some good feeding a few times a week + water changes other than that I dont see them differently than any lps it just looked beefy and hungry
To keep turbinaria types/oxypora types alive you must feed in anticipation of a greater than normal heterotrophic food mix requirement, they can't be kept alive in a pico even a single year without 3x the normal feed and 3x normal export.
if i had access to a smaller frag of it Id put some in mine. my lfs never has that kind of lps
The reason I would use a three mouth frag vs a 25 mouth one would be to see if my pico added mass to it, one of the inflexible hallmark rules of pico reefing is adding mass to a frag means your tank works, for that type of coral
Only what you grow matters, as many tanks can house corals in a slow decline.
an additional test for pico reef biology is how clearly it can be replicated by others, 99% of vase reefs are taken down within months and we listed sure fire ways to turn around small reefs if needed
it was fun to cover just about every angle of vase reefing thanks for good feedback
To keep turbinaria types/oxypora types alive you must feed in anticipation of a greater than normal heterotrophic food mix requirement, they can't be kept alive in a pico even a single year without 3x the normal feed and 3x normal export.
if i had access to a smaller frag of it Id put some in mine. my lfs never has that kind of lps
The reason I would use a three mouth frag vs a 25 mouth one would be to see if my pico added mass to it, one of the inflexible hallmark rules of pico reefing is adding mass to a frag means your tank works, for that type of coral
Only what you grow matters, as many tanks can house corals in a slow decline.
an additional test for pico reef biology is how clearly it can be replicated by others, 99% of vase reefs are taken down within months and we listed sure fire ways to turn around small reefs if needed
it was fun to cover just about every angle of vase reefing thanks for good feedback
Hahah bro I'm in college I didn't mean for this to be some crazy monumental change the world vase lol I have a love for coral and couldn't get away I go with things I've trusted and worked for me before. I have used multiple foods I can't remember the name like coral frenzy is my favorite the tentacles are full extended at night.. the colony I got was cheap and it already looks better them it did in the store... it gotten better looking in the tank my lights are great extremely bright I would recommend to any body doing small tank works, the bubbler is working well the heater I got is super small so the ac amd heater conteract each other and stay pretty stable, I have mot bought food but when I do it will.be coral frenzy as well as a water change after I feed in a couple days! Other then that I'm not much of a favia guy never have been I got that for cheap to because it was already partially fading due to lack of light on the lower half so my goal is to recover that and add growth tp the pectinia which seems taller already the tank I got it from at the store was poorly handled and taking care of so I feel as though it is happier at this moment... my next purchases will.be some xenia, and maybe another candy cane because xenia fills space and is extremely durable, and candy cane is also durable but a littlw bit of a challenge with stability both with explode to growth. I didn't realize whay this thread meant to the community but I will keep that in mind thank man!
*signing bonus in coral please*
*signing bonus in coral please*
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that depends on how much coral mass your feeding and water change schedule can support.
my bowl is literally full of lps, but the feeding and water change is exceptional. my light can be linked to threads that show coral mass solely on that light, not just illumination. those details matter in answering the question you asked
its a crapshoot answer if none of the details can be provided for your tank. but it has potential, all we need is the threads showing the individual parts of your reef growing corals to truly tell you how much more coral you should get next
a bowl full of corals dies fast upon one mistake, a bowl of few corals dies less fast so its your call
just make sure you are buying aquacultured not live harvest frags
a reefbowl can hold as much lps as you can physically stuff into it if we haven't shown well enough by now, but thats a precarious balance our sytems are tuned and guaranteed to handle. no salinity shifts, no temp shifts, tested perfection. there is no telling how long an experimental tank full of expensive lps will last
whats your guess
my bowl is literally full of lps, but the feeding and water change is exceptional. my light can be linked to threads that show coral mass solely on that light, not just illumination. those details matter in answering the question you asked
its a crapshoot answer if none of the details can be provided for your tank. but it has potential, all we need is the threads showing the individual parts of your reef growing corals to truly tell you how much more coral you should get next
a bowl full of corals dies fast upon one mistake, a bowl of few corals dies less fast so its your call
just make sure you are buying aquacultured not live harvest frags
a reefbowl can hold as much lps as you can physically stuff into it if we haven't shown well enough by now, but thats a precarious balance our sytems are tuned and guaranteed to handle. no salinity shifts, no temp shifts, tested perfection. there is no telling how long an experimental tank full of expensive lps will last
whats your guess
