Ick help
- Thread starter Josh9448
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This remedy has worked plenty of times for me throughout my reef keeping experiences. Increase tank temperature to 80 degrees, dose ick attack (not harmful to corals) and soak fish food in garlic (can get from fish store in a bottle). These three things all together until the recommended ick attack treatment is done and then a 50% water change at the end. I have gotten rid of ick about 4 times in different tanks using this method.
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I'd look at adding Metro+, it along with a lot of water changes really helped when I had a bad case of ick. what i read was the the better the water quality the less stress on the fish. THe key is to keep them eating and lower their stress level so they can fight off the infection. Worked for me and I've tried to keep my water super clean ever since.
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Fallow is key. Then once you put your fish in quarantine, try hypo salinity or tank transfer method. Many go with tank transfer method. Many go with hypo salinity. U just gotta bite the bullet and go fallow or feed heavy and hope they fight it off. Good luck man! You can and will beat this ick!
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If you really want to save your fish and relief them from suffering, then treat them with hyposalinity right away.
1. take all the fish out into a hospital tank or tub along with some water and LRs from the tank with ick.
2. Add Ro/Di water with same temp until the salinity drops down to 1.009 (Ick will die at this salinity)
3. You may notice a temporary spike in ammonia level but it should drop back to 0 eventually. Perform water change as needed
4. Keep the fish in hyposalinity for at least 3 weeks. 6 is better.
I am not suggesting this method because I have read it somewhere. I have successfully helped many newbies cured icks for over 10 years.
If you decide to take this route, PM me and I will walk you through the details.
1. take all the fish out into a hospital tank or tub along with some water and LRs from the tank with ick.
2. Add Ro/Di water with same temp until the salinity drops down to 1.009 (Ick will die at this salinity)
3. You may notice a temporary spike in ammonia level but it should drop back to 0 eventually. Perform water change as needed
4. Keep the fish in hyposalinity for at least 3 weeks. 6 is better.
I am not suggesting this method because I have read it somewhere. I have successfully helped many newbies cured icks for over 10 years.
If you decide to take this route, PM me and I will walk you through the details.
I agree with the Tank transfer and fallow method. Pull the fish and find them a temporary home for a couple of months. The Ich will die out of the DT. Then use a QT process for all new additions to make sure that you don't reintroduce ICH to the DT. While the fish are out of the DT you can treat them for ICH. Copper, hyposalinity, trank transfer are all suitable methods. Some of the methods take longer then others and some of them are more harsh then others. You need 6 to 8 weeks of a fallow DT to allow plenty of time for the ICH to die out anyways, so you have plenty of time to treat the fish. The trick is to keep the fish alive in a temp tank without proper biological filtration for a couple of months. If you have a lot of fish then you may want to consider putting them in multiple holding containers. You may have to get creative. A couple of pieces of sacrificial liverock or a seeded sponge filter may make life easier. Ammonia and gas exchange can quickly become problems so you will have to be careful. Water changes and an Ammonia binder can be used to help keep things manageable.
Take all Corals and LRs out, catch and transfer all fish into QT, put Corals and LRs back to display tank. This would be must easier/faster than trying to catch the fish with LRs in the tank. Don't start the quarantine tank from scratch with new water. Use the same water from the display tank with ick with enough LRs for bio filtration. Then add ro/di water until you drop down to 1.009. This ensure most of the beneficial bacteria will survive and less ammonia issue to deal with.
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