NL5882's 224g AA Shallow Reef/ AA 100g Sump w/ Refugium Build

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#1
I can now enter the "Large Reef Tank" Forum. I'm upgrading since I don't have go-go gadget arms, and can't keep up with the bottom of tank being 30" deep. Some equipment will be from my current tank( MP's, Radion's, ATS, Media Reactor. Any comments on the way will be welcomed bad/good, since this will be my first/last custom style build. Permanent Info to be added as needed. HERE WE GO!!!!

Tank: AA Custom 224g, 72x36x20. 1" top, bottom, front, black back, 3/4" sides(rounded) Eurobraced 62" x 25" opening. Dual Corner Overflow's(not box style) 1.5" drains.

Sump: AA Custom 100g (info when i get home)

Filtration&Flow: Tunze Silent PRO 1073.110, 2x MP60's, Turbo's Aquatics L4 ATS, Media Reactor w/ Brightwell Aquatics ExportP04
Reef Octopus XS200(if it's not broke don't fix it)

Lighting: Radion G3 Pro's

Dosing: Avast Seabones III Calcium Reactor, Avast Seabones III Effluent Chamber. Avast Kalk Stirrer w/ Tunze ATO(night dosing

Stand: 72x36x36 Steel Black Powder Coated. Custom skin after setup.

Tank Control: APEX W/ Dual Lab Grade PH Probes
 
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#2
Stand unfinished




I set tank onto stand yesterday and noticed a 1/16" gap along the front edge between tank and stand. Looks like the center bracing might have pulled it down after weld cooled? The tank is 1" thick how worried should i be or steps I should take to fix this. Stand is already powder coated.
 
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#3
Stand unfinished




I set tank onto stand yesterday and noticed a 1/16" gap along the front edge between tank and stand. Looks like the center bracing might have pulled it down after weld cooled? The tank is 1" thick how worried should i be or steps I should take to fix this. Stand is already powder coated.
I'd think that a plywood surface and some thick foam would do the trick. But I have no experience with a tank that large.

Looking forward to following this build. Sweet dims.
 
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#4
pulling the pipe down after welding is unlikely, but ultimately, it's steel, and there's going to be a slight bit of deflection.

the trick will be having a nice board / foam above the stand to take up the irregularities.
 
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#5
pulling the pipe down after welding is unlikely, but ultimately, it's steel, and there's going to be a slight bit of deflection.

the trick will be having a nice board / foam above the stand to take up the irregularities.
so use some plywood and pink foam? what thickness do you think?
 
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#7
on the topic of plywood - i would suggest 2 layers of thinner plywood (2 layers of 5/8") vs. 1 single layer of thicker (3/4" ~1") plywood, because of the nature of inconsistencies in plywood. with 2 layers, you are much less likely to have a point of weakness on an interior ply.

on the foam, it's really gonna depend on the foam type. you're gonna have probably close to 2000 lbs sitting on 2592 square inch of surface. at ~1.3lb/in^2, you're probably not going to be squishing down rigid insulation that much - so thinner piece would probably be ok, but if you're using something more like Styrofoam, it probably will compress some, so you'd wanna plan accordingly.
 
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#12
Sump is 48x21x18.
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ordered schedule 80 bulkheads and plumbing today, hopefully I can it done this weekend.
 
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#19
Ok a little update been pretty busy. Went with one sheet 23/32" hardwood ply, and a 1/2" on top with a 1/2 foam tip


Bought dome of the schedule pvc piping I'll need (this stuff is pretty **** pricey


Then the main pump, a lot bigger than I thought it was going to be.


I think I'm going to drill two more 1-1/2" drains, so I can get full use if the pump. Hopefully plumbing will be done next weekend.
 

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