Ro/Di question

T

Turtlespd

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The pressure gauge actually tells u when to swap out the first filter. That's a .5 micron sediment filter. Either swap it ever 6mo or watch the pressure drop on the guage. When I see my guage drop about 8-9 psi I swap it out. The carbon should be ok and can process about 5000g but might as well its a cheap investment to give it the best protection. If ur sediment is clogged it will effect ur tds results swap those first and if u still have 1 tds then ur sediment was prolly ok but u need to change the mixed beads resin in the third canister. The last one is a silica buster and removes phosphates and silica. One thing you should do is test what the tds is out of the ro membrane the white canister that sits on top and the two last canisters one at a time. Sometimes one canister absorbs everything and them leaches into another so Test the tds and go from there. If ur lazy swap them all out 70 bucks vs 55 bucks isn't too much for piece of mind. I would like to add that if ur unit is only 9 months either ur running a lot of water or something's up., like u never flush or run your ro without the DI connected.
 
ReEfErAdDiCt86

ReEfErAdDiCt86

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#3
Turtlespd said:
The pressure gauge actually tells u when to swap out the first filter. That's a .5 micron sediment filter. Either swap it ever 6mo or watch the pressure drop on the guage. When I see my guage drop about 8-9 psi I swap it out. The carbon should be ok and can process about 5000g but might as well its a cheap investment to give it the best protection. If ur sediment is clogged it will effect ur tds results swap those first and if u still have 1 tds then ur sediment was prolly ok but u need to change the mixed beads resin in the third canister. The last one is a silica buster and removes phosphates and silica. One thing you should do is test what the tds is out of the ro membrane the white canister that sits on top and the two last canisters one at a time. Sometimes one canister absorbs everything and them leaches into another so Test the tds and go from there. If ur lazy swap them all out 70 bucks vs 55 bucks isn't too much for piece of mind. I would like to add that if ur unit is only 9 months either ur running a lot of water or something's up., like u never flush or run your ro without the DI connected.
Click to expand...
What's the deal with running it without the DI connected?
 
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ngvu1

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Thanks for the information. I was asking my self why my pressure dropped from 70 to 65 and now 60.

Vu
Turtlespd said:
The pressure gauge actually tells u when to swap out the first filter. That's a .5 micron sediment filter. Either swap it ever 6mo or watch the pressure drop on the guage. When I see my guage drop about 8-9 psi I swap it out. The carbon should be ok and can process about 5000g but might as well its a cheap investment to give it the best protection. If ur sediment is clogged it will effect ur tds results swap those first and if u still have 1 tds then ur sediment was prolly ok but u need to change the mixed beads resin in the third canister. The last one is a silica buster and removes phosphates and silica. One thing you should do is test what the tds is out of the ro membrane the white canister that sits on top and the two last canisters one at a time. Sometimes one canister absorbs everything and them leaches into another so Test the tds and go from there. If ur lazy swap them all out 70 bucks vs 55 bucks isn't too much for piece of mind. I would like to add that if ur unit is only 9 months either ur running a lot of water or something's up., like u never flush or run your ro without the DI connected.
Click to expand...
 
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Kimle

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When changing out the RODI media, what do people recommend? I see that BRS has a 5 micro media pack for for $21.99. But Spectrapure has a 0.5 micro pack for double the cost... $46. Is 5 micro too big? What micron should I be looking for?

My incoming water is about 225ppm.
 
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Turtlespd

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Reefaddict,

the reason u want to flush the ro out is because When the membrane sits it accumulates toxins. On my unit I have added a T before the di and that's also my drinking water, they call it a flush valve also. I run it for about 20-30 min and that's how u rid ur membrane of high tds, in the 20-30's from sitting. Once I reach my previously tested rejection rate ( 2-6 for me) I can let it run into the di other wise ur just buttoning through Di.

Wow dude,

You should flush, that's explains why your new ro/di unit is creeping in tds so early and I know the water in ur are isn't too bad. U should be able to go a year befo ur di starts to creep especially cause I run MaX cap, they have a larger capacity.

Vu,

Took me about three years into the hobby to know what everything was. That guage talks to ya higher psi better rejection rate, more savings.

Kim,

I also own a brs and they offer .6 micron for 2.99 and thats what i used. The brs isn't .6 across the filter but is .6 on the inside and larger on the outside, I actually like this better, especially since I can watch my guage and know I don't have crazy rust in my pipe or crazy minerals. The spectrapure is nominal and is .5 across the whole filter. I don't understand how that is 10 dollars better but I guess it's supposed to be. This will clog faster IME but is supposed to be better. I used these religiously for 3-4 years but later IME they didn't offer me any benefits but can help those in diff areas.

So if the brs has worked for u then the .6 from brs, they do offer it along with the .5 carbon for ur 4 stage unit. I also have about 225ppm going in also.
 
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