Rodi Help!!! Di Exhousted in Less than 30 Days!

Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
5,411
Likes
33
Points
48
Location
Tustin
#1
Hey all... so im trying to figure out why my Di is totally spent(exhousted) after just 25 DAYS!!

i just replaced all my filters on my aquaticlife Ro buddy with Di Chamber on July 8th... and all the Di has changed color which means it spent and now my TDs out is 0.01-0.02

ive probably only made 100 gallons of water

i just moved to tustin last month and could it be the chloramines in the water?
i was living 3 miles away in santa ana and my Di lasted 6 months before it started reading 0.01

any one else in tustin(or elsewhere) burning thru di?

how can i prevent this from happening agian...

Should i add a prefilter?
should i get a new Rodi (SpectraPure)
 

pgr11

Member
Supporter
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
11,011
Likes
92
Points
48
Location
Hesperia
#2
What are your readings after the ro membrane but before the do filters?
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
5,411
Likes
33
Points
48
Location
Tustin
#3
0.16-0.18 its a little high.. When I was living in Santa Ana last month it would be 0.07-0.09

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

bvysochin

2
Supporter
2020 POTM
Joined
Nov 2, 2009
Messages
1,210
Likes
81
Points
48
Location
Oak View, CA 93022- about 15 min from Ventura
#4
Whats the tds of the tap water compared to santa ana? Have you tried flushing the membrane? How many gallons do you make at a time? Having it come on frequently while making small amounts of water can exhaust if faster as well.

If there are chloramines in the water then yes that will cause it to exhaust more quickly.

A carbon filter should help with the chloramines as well, if they are in the water. I'd have to ask my husband more about that one like which kind and where it would go on the system, unless someone else chimes in with the info.
 
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
13,586
Likes
104
Points
48
Location
Eastvale, Ca (Corona)
#5
Pressure would be a huge factor. I'm guessing your don't have a booster pump on that filter? If the pressure is lower at your new place, your ro membrane won't work correctly
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
5,411
Likes
33
Points
48
Location
Tustin
#6
Pressures are the same 55-60 psi. No booster pump... But didn't have this problem at last place..


No I make 5-10 gallons at a time. I have a manual flush that I use after making water every time.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
5,411
Likes
33
Points
48
Location
Tustin
#7
Could it just be that these small filters just can't handle it?

Not sure of the micron size..

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

bvysochin

2
Supporter
2020 POTM
Joined
Nov 2, 2009
Messages
1,210
Likes
81
Points
48
Location
Oak View, CA 93022- about 15 min from Ventura
#8
You mentioned you replaced your filters, what filters exactly did you replace them with? What micron ratings, what brand? Did you go with a .5 micron carbon stage? What type of membrane did you install? How many DI stages do you have, one or two? What type of DI are you using? Your TDS after membrane/before DI is high. At 16-18, I'm not surprised that your DI resin did not last as long as it typically would/should have. What is the TDS of your incoming water, before the RO?

RO membranes are typically rated by rejection rate.. Genuine DOW Filmtec 75gpd membranes typically have a 98% rejection rate (keep in mind, 96% for them is still considered within spec). That means the membrane should be dropping 98% of the TDS of your incoming water.. IE: 500 tds coming in, 10 tds before it hits your DI. If you went with a crappy, but higher GPD, membrane, with say a 90% rejection rate, that same example, would be 500 tds coming in, 50 tds before it hits your DI. That means your DI is going to work 5x harder, and last 1/5 as long. The last 75gpd filmtec membrane I purchased happened to have a crappier 96% rejection rate. It went in the trash. I ordered a 98% guaranteed spectrapure tested membrane, and it came in defective, at only about 95% rejection rate. They mentioned they had a bad batch, and sent me a new membrane, rated at 99%. Has been perfect ever since. 400 tds coming in, 4-5 tds before my DI. My DI lasts a very long time, making 1000+ gallons a month. DI does have a shelf life, and depending on how old it is/the quality of it, it may not last as long as you'd expect. Color changing DI doesn't necessary mean it's exhausted when it loses its color, either. If you have a TDS meter to check the TDS before/after DI, you can save your money and not order the color changing kind. A TDS meter is the best way to check. At 1-2 tds, I'd still use it. I have two DI stages, and I monitor the pre/post TDS of each. As soon as the TDS after the first DI stage starts to climb up, I rotate the second DI into it's slot, and replace the second DI stage. This ensures I always have the freshest DI in the very last slot, giving me the cleanest water.

I only use .5 micron carbon filters.. they cost the most typically, but last time I checked, I believe they are rated to last the longest, rated at about 20k gallons of water, filtering out 1ppm of chlorine. I run two. Keep in mind, the 20k includes ALL water that passes through them, water that you keep after RO, and also the rejected water. Your carbon filter will take out the chloramines. You can add an additional GAC carbon stage to deal with chloramines, but after doing research and speaking directly to someone at spectrapure, this is not necessary.. Some people may disagree.. to each his own.

Making only 5-10 gallons at a time is going to put extra stress on your DI as well. You get TDS creep every time you turn your RO system on.. you'll see this when you first turn RO system on, your TDS will be in the two hundred TDS range or more, after the membrane.. and it will slowly drop down to where it needs to be. In the mean time, all that high TDS water passes through your DI stage(s) (unless you're sitting there, and manually diverting it away), and that chews up your DI resin very quickly. I'm lucky enough to have a large water change system, so I only make 50g at a time, sometimes 200g or more. A standard $10 bag of DI resin from BRS will usually last me about 1-2 months, making 1000+ gallons a month. I've used the MaxCAP / Silicabuster DI resin from Spectrapure as well ($$$) and found it works/lasts equally as long as the bulk resin from BRS. As long as your system is intact, I wouldn't purchase a new one, but you may want to do some more research on what filters you choose to use, and add the necessary TDS meters/psi gauges to keep an eye on the health of your filters to ensure everything is working properly. Membranes/pre filters are cheap.. DI can get expensive if you have to keep changing it because the cheap filters aren't doing their job(s).
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
5,411
Likes
33
Points
48
Location
Tustin
#10
You mentioned you replaced your filters, what filters exactly did you replace them with? What micron ratings, what brand? Did you go with a .5 micron carbon stage? What type of membrane did you install? How many DI stages do you have, one or two? What type of DI are you using? Your TDS after membrane/before DI is high. At 16-18, I'm not surprised that your DI resin did not last as long as it typically would/should have. What is the TDS of your incoming water, before the RO?

RO membranes are typically rated by rejection rate.. Genuine DOW Filmtec 75gpd membranes typically have a 98% rejection rate (keep in mind, 96% for them is still considered within spec). That means the membrane should be dropping 98% of the TDS of your incoming water.. IE: 500 tds coming in, 10 tds before it hits your DI. If you went with a crappy, but higher GPD, membrane, with say a 90% rejection rate, that same example, would be 500 tds coming in, 50 tds before it hits your DI. That means your DI is going to work 5x harder, and last 1/5 as long. The last 75gpd filmtec membrane I purchased happened to have a crappier 96% rejection rate. It went in the trash. I ordered a 98% guaranteed spectrapure tested membrane, and it came in defective, at only about 95% rejection rate. They mentioned they had a bad batch, and sent me a new membrane, rated at 99%. Has been perfect ever since. 400 tds coming in, 4-5 tds before my DI. My DI lasts a very long time, making 1000+ gallons a month. DI does have a shelf life, and depending on how old it is/the quality of it, it may not last as long as you'd expect. Color changing DI doesn't necessary mean it's exhausted when it loses its color, either. If you have a TDS meter to check the TDS before/after DI, you can save your money and not order the color changing kind. A TDS meter is the best way to check. At 1-2 tds, I'd still use it. I have two DI stages, and I monitor the pre/post TDS of each. As soon as the TDS after the first DI stage starts to climb up, I rotate the second DI into it's slot, and replace the second DI stage. This ensures I always have the freshest DI in the very last slot, giving me the cleanest water.

I only use .5 micron carbon filters.. they cost the most typically, but last time I checked, I believe they are rated to last the longest, rated at about 20k gallons of water, filtering out 1ppm of chlorine. I run two. Keep in mind, the 20k includes ALL water that passes through them, water that you keep after RO, and also the rejected water. Your carbon filter will take out the chloramines. You can add an additional GAC carbon stage to deal with chloramines, but after doing research and speaking directly to someone at spectrapure, this is not necessary.. Some people may disagree.. to each his own.

Making only 5-10 gallons at a time is going to put extra stress on your DI as well. You get TDS creep every time you turn your RO system on.. you'll see this when you first turn RO system on, your TDS will be in the two hundred TDS range or more, after the membrane.. and it will slowly drop down to where it needs to be. In the mean time, all that high TDS water passes through your DI stage(s) (unless you're sitting there, and manually diverting it away), and that chews up your DI resin very quickly. I'm lucky enough to have a large water change system, so I only make 50g at a time, sometimes 200g or more. A standard $10 bag of DI resin from BRS will usually last me about 1-2 months, making 1000+ gallons a month. I've used the MaxCAP / Silicabuster DI resin from Spectrapure as well ($$$) and found it works/lasts equally as long as the bulk resin from BRS. As long as your system is intact, I wouldn't purchase a new one, but you may want to do some more research on what filters you choose to use, and add the necessary TDS meters/psi gauges to keep an eye on the health of your filters to ensure everything is working properly. Membranes/pre filters are cheap.. DI can get expensive if you have to keep changing it because the cheap filters aren't doing their job(s).
Wow!!!
Thanks for the in depth response... That does make sense about my di is working harder.

I actually didn't replace the membrane. I replaced the sediment, carbon, and di.

I got the Rodi system 6 months ago brand new. I really liked it till now. Lol

Do Chloramines eat up the DI faster?
Aquatic life makes a special filter cartridge that goes between the sediment and carbon to remove chloramines which could damage the membrane...

I think I'm gonna pick up a spectrapure system with dual di maybe

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

lowbudget

Premium Member
Supporter
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
22,203
Likes
88
Points
48
Location
los angeles
#11
Yes chloramines will use up di faster that why I order my filters from the filter guy the have a chloramines buster carbon filter
 

bvysochin

2
Supporter
2020 POTM
Joined
Nov 2, 2009
Messages
1,210
Likes
81
Points
48
Location
Oak View, CA 93022- about 15 min from Ventura
#13
Carbon is carbon, imo. Either you have a working carbon stage, that will remove chlorine and chloramines, or you dont. If you don't, yes, your di will get used up faster. Dual di is nice. You may want to consider changing your membrane for one with a higher, guaranteed, tested rejection rate. Spectrapure had one that was 99%. Would put your tds at 4-5 before DI. You'll be fine with just one di stage, just need to keep an eye on it.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
2,172
Likes
12
Points
0
Location
Cypress College
#17
I had the same problem before. Robert, COC, and Broc, coral Obsessions, gave me the idea even though they do not exactly doing the same thing.....:) Anyway, here is what I am doing and so far it works for me.

I have the DI on a portable canister. To get RO/DI water, I run the RO water to a bucket first. First the RO water TDS is like 40-60 then drop to 5-6 (about 1 gallon or less depending how often I run it). I hook the DI canister after TDS reading on RO water is about 5-6.
I change the pre-filter sediment if TDS does not go lower than 10 after 1 gallon of RO water output. About 2-3 sediment filters, I need to replace the carbon filters too. The membrane I plan to replace every 2 years or more
I bought a bag of DI resin from Chance over a year ago, even before the store came out, and still have not used it yet. They only have 2 years shelf life......dam I am close to that now!

Btw, RODI TDS 1-5 is OK for me. Right now my RO/DI TDS is about 1-3. I need to change the DI :). Have not changed any filter for the last 4-5 months. My faucet TDS is 295 though not 495.

It is a pain to get the RO/DI water for me, so that is why I have not responded to any "free water" requests :)
 
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Messages
61
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
Cincinnati
#18
Yeow. There's a LOT of information in this thread that doesn't quite hit the nail on the head! Just so people don't get confused...

i just replaced all my filters on my aquaticlife Ro buddy with Di Chamber on July 8th... and all the Di has changed color which means it spent and now my TDs out is 0.01-0.02
This is one of the mini-systems. Don't expect performance like you'd see out of a properly sized system. Especially if you have chloramines. You system has next to no carbon prefiltration to start out with - even if you just had chlorine. If you have a 4:1 or 5:1 ratio of waste water to permeate, that mini carbon you have should be changed very, very often. Remember that all the water (permeate+concentrate) goes through that filter.

Pressures are the same 55-60 psi.
The system has no pressure gauge after the prefilters, so how do you know how much pressure is reaching the membrane? Your prefilters could be badly plugged and you might only be working with 20 psi. Who knows?

...and all the Di has changed color which means it spent and now my TDs out is 0.01-0.02
Check the instructions to your TDS meter - what you are reading is 1 or 2 ppm - not 0.01 or 0.02 ppm.

Do Chloramines eat up the DI faster?
We'll sort of. Given adequate contact time, carbon will break the chlorine to ammonia bond. The chlorine will be adsorbed by the carbon or removed by the membrane (chloride). The ammonia however will makes its way through the membrane and be caught by the DI. So even if you added 10 carbon blocks, you are still going to have ammonia reaching the DI. The idea of extra carbon, or using extra fast acting carbon (catalytic carbon) is to make sure your thoroughly break all the chlorine/ammonia bonds.

Carbon is carbon, imo. Either you have a working carbon stage, that will remove chlorine and chloramines, or you dont. If you don't, yes, your di will get used up faster.
Well, sort of. See above. With chloramines it is a good idea to use a special fast acting carbon - either CGAC (granular form), or a Chloraguard carbon block (CPAC in block form). Neither is what you'd call "plain ol' carbon." Chloramines require additional contact time relative to chlorine.

I change the pre-filter sediment if TDS does not go lower than 10 after 1 gallon of RO water output.
Sediment filters have next to nothing to do with removing TDS. They just keep the sediment out of the carbon block, and out of the membrane. If your sediment filter is heavily clogged and reducing pressure reaching the membrane, it will increase TDS of the permeate a bit.

Russ
 

Latest posts

Top