?'s reguarding new build

[ih8needles]

so im getting some of my parts accumulated for my new tank build just waiting on getting a new stand built. I wanted to ask a couple questions....
What ball/gate valves should i get?
Is it ok to use 3/4" pvc from my return pump and go to 1/2" vinyl in my overflow box for my return?
im using a dc3000 pump for return. im thinking of adding a 3/4" union just above the pump for maintenance purposes.
Should I put ball/gate valves on my drain? im not going to be feeding anything (reactors) off of my dc3000 so I don't think I need one there. im thinking of running a TLF reactor hung on the side of my sump for gfo and possibly 1 more for biopellets if need be.
The stand I want built will be 30x30x40, is my dc3000 pump going to be enough for a 50 cube?

as for my sump its a seaside re100 sump/fuge and im going to use my pls150 skimmer. I will start a build thread when I actually start the build, as of right now im just gathering everything so when the time comes I can spend a full day building and what not.

 

[Speaker73]

The DC3000 is not going to be enough for your build. I use a 6000 on my 50 gallon and it's not enough. Of course I run my biopellets and gfo/carbon reactor off a manifold. I would go for a 6000 at the least but would probably look into a Fluval SP4.

I would probably i use flex tubing from the pump to a union to give more clearance and flexibility with your return pump. I hard plumbed my pump in and now an stuck with what I have or else I have to replumb everything again. Fwiw

 

[ih8needles]

The DC3000 is not going to be enough for your build. I use a 6000 on my 50 gallon and it's not enough. Of course I run my biopellets and gfo/carbon reactor off a manifold. I would go for a 6000 at the least but would probably look into a Fluval SP4.

I would probably i use flex tubing from the pump to a union to give more clearance and flexibility with your return pump. I hard plumbed my pump in and now an stuck with what I have or else I have to replumb everything again. Fwiw

dc-3000 wont be enough for just a return? I'm not running my reactor or anything of the return feed line. I will feed my reactor with a rio 600 from the return area from my sump and it will drain into my skimmer area.

 

[joseserrano]

You can go from a 3/4 to half inch, that is fine. Regarding the drain, the only reason you may want that is to regulate noise, by putting a ball valve you can regulate the amount of water that is coming out, which will be directly related to the amount of water you pump is pumping back into the display. Regarding Unions, just put them in places you may need to do maintenance on, or by equipment that may need to be replaced/also need maintenance....

 

[planbtypea]

Flex line as much of your return as you can, you will thank us later. I run a combo hard/flex but that's because I run a manifold with my return, less pumps=less electricity and heat. From my experience, gate valves>ball valves. More adjustability and you can completely take them apart to clean and/or "rebuild". SP4 might be overkill but can be dialed back with a valve. Better to have too much flow and dial it back then not enough flow...

 

[ih8needles]

You can go from a 3/4 to half inch, that is fine. Regarding the drain, the only reason you may want that is to regulate noise, by putting a ball valve you can regulate the amount of water that is coming out, which will be directly related to the amount of water you pump is pumping back into the display. Regarding Unions, just put them in places you may need to do maintenance on, or by equipment that may need to be replaced/also need maintenance....

so my only place I would need to install a union would be my return pump correct? but installing the air line into the cap of the durso will help quiet down the drain wouldn't it? or is it best to have both an airline in the cap of the durso and also a gate or ball valve on the drain?

Flex line as much of your return as you can, you will thank us later. I run a combo hard/flex but that's because I run a manifold with my return, less pumps=less electricity and heat. From my experience, gate valves>ball valves. More adjustability and you can completely take them apart to clean and/or "rebuild". SP4 might be overkill but can be dialed back with a valve. Better to have too much flow and dial it back then not enough flow...

I was thinking the gate valves from MD. flex line? im thinking of running my plumbing as tight to the frame of the stand as possible. I will be using 45* elbows instead of 90* elbows to help with restriction same with the return plumbing. I am trying to take my time with this build as I want it simple yet functional and not an "eye sore" looking into the stand. I will be also using a dj power strip to be able to shut things off when need be and hiding as much of the wiring as possible.

I am also thinking of having my buddy who does custom airbrush/pinstriping do something on my stand after I find someone who could help me build one.

 

[joseserrano]

What i was talking about is the water crashing down into your sump, not it draining form the overflow box. But yes, the more redundancy you have, the quieter it will be.

 

[Smite]

Are you trying to eliminate additional powerheads in the display? If not I don't think you need to go overkill on the return. Fluval site says @ 4.5 feet you'll be getting about 1350 gph. @ 5'9" a little over 1200. That's 24-27 x turnover depending on the height of your tank. Seems like a lot. Didn't see a chart for the dc3000

 

[Smite]

I've also read mixed reviews on whether tuning back the pump with a valve effects the life of the pump or not. It'll will run hotter tuned back.

 

[ih8needles]

What i was talking about is the water crashing down into your sump, not it draining form the overflow box. But yes, the more redundancy you have, the quieter it will be.

so I should put one on the drain just incase?

Are you trying to eliminate additional powerheads in the display? If not I don't think you need to go overkill on the return. Fluval site says @ 4.5 feet you'll be getting about 1350 gph. @ 5'9" a little over 1200. That's 24-27 x turnover depending on the height of your tank. Seems like a lot. Didn't see a chart for the dc3000

I will have a wp-25 for flow inside the tank. my tank is 24x24x20 and im looking at having a stand build at 30x30x40T. max gph on my pump is around 800 and 2.7m head max. So do you think I should keep my pump or upsize a bit?


should i look into the union style valves that MD have on their site or keep the union and ball valve separate?

 

[Smite]

Yeah its a tough call on the dc 3000. Most pumps give you a break down on the drop of gph per foot or 2. If 0' is 800gph and 9' is 0 gph then you'd figure your 4.5' head height would give you around 400 gph. But I'm not sure if it really breaks down equally like that.

You want decent flow through your sump refugium but your skimmer will be more effective if waters not flying by. I think most people shoot for 10-15x turnover an hour. So that dc might be a little short depending on how the gph actually breaks down.