Steel Stand Build

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#1
Well I am completely fed up with my stupid @$$ wood stand that is impossible to do anything in because the doors are too small, and the stand is too short!!!

SOOOO I have prepared plans to build a steel stand. A friend of a friend will help me weld this thing together and the material will come from a cheap local metal dealer that will cut the metal to what I want.

Specs
- All framing will be square 1-1/2" steal piping
- will have 1" flat steal on bottom to support sump pan
- Sump pan will be made of wood, that is glue and nailed together, and painted and epoxied

After stand is built, it will be sanded, primed, and painted black.


Here at the plans, what do you guys think?!?!?! I welcome all suggestions, comments, and criticisms! :marchmellow:

 
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#2
trying to fill in the measurements between for the inside of the framing became very difficult and "Preview" on my Mac started to delete somethings so I gave up...
 
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#3
I forgot to explain...

The small brown squares on the front and sides of the frame are for the wood doors that will be put inside of it. The squares will be small flat pieces of metal that will be welded on the inside of the stand. I will then attach magnets to the wood doors (3 in front, 2 on the sides) so that they can easily pop off when I need to get into the sump with PLENTY of room to move around!
 
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#5
Good luck with the stand. I did my stat at 44 inches tall. I am starting on my facia tomorrow. I will do the skeleton tomorrow out of 2x4's for the front and sides. I plan on using rolling casters on the bottom so i pull it out if need too. but will have 3 doors on front.
 

NVTE

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#7
nice plan Bobby.
You might consider powder coat your stand.
 
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#8
That looks like a good amount of material, my only suggestion would be to consider some diagonal bracing or corner gussets. If you are planning to get a sump that will barely fit you might also want to think about attaching one or two supports with mechanical (removable) fasteners.

I'd also be careful of a cheap supplier of steel, you may get some very thin wall tubing if you are not careful.
 
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#11
nice plan Bobby.
You might consider powder coat your stand.
Hey Daniel, I was actually really thinking about powder coating it, but after looking into the $$ on all the different ways to paint the stand, I am probably going to have to go with some 3M rubberized paint as it is the most economical way.

I wish I could powder coat it but with what I am already dropping to build the stand, sump, and well whole underside it just is not plausible right now.
 
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#12
That looks like a good amount of material, my only suggestion would be to consider some diagonal bracing or corner gussets. If you are planning to get a sump that will barely fit you might also want to think about attaching one or two supports with mechanical (removable) fasteners.

I'd also be careful of a cheap supplier of steel, you may get some very thin wall tubing if you are not careful.
I have been looking around for some places that will cut some diagonal bracings but they have quoted me a HUGE $$ price for them! I have been looking a lot of other stand builds and I think that because this is only for a 150g that that is already more than enough support.

For the material, it is 1/4" walled steal so I am positive this will do fine with the weight.

The sump will be 48"x18"x20" and is already built by John at Advanced Acrylics. I think that it will fit perfectly with the sump pan design and have plenty of room above the sump to fit what I need in it. With the removable doors on the side, it will allow me to take the entire sump apart, and out of the stand if needed.


*as a problem I didnt see early, my tank is only 60" Long, not 72" so I guess I will be saving some $ on the steel bars! *
 

NVTE

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#13
Hey Daniel, I was actually really thinking about powder coating it, but after looking into the $$ on all the different ways to paint the stand, I am probably going to have to go with some 3M rubberized paint as it is the most economical way.

I wish I could powder coat it but with what I am already dropping to build the stand, sump, and well whole underside it just is not plausible right now.
I don't know about 3M Rubberized Paint. With all the money you drop for the stand, I think powder coating give you more rust resistance.
Post the picture of finished stand when you are ready.
 
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#14
Bobby, did you call me the other day? I deleted your message and don't have your number.

Forget powder coating, Linex!!! Also, IMO you don't need bracing, my 225 sits on a 40" stand that I could have parked a truck on without it collapsing.
 
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#18
Ya, I looked into the gussets but honestly with it only being a 150g with the cross beems I already have I think I will be FINE with out them! I will have small gussets on to magnet clip the doors but that will not be for strength.
 
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#19
1/4 tubing... This thing is going to be a brick. Make sure you chamfer the edges so the weld gets good penetration.

The reason I was saying the diagonal bracing and gussets were a good idea is because they support the welds, and help prevent a catastrophic failure if something does happen. Your tank is exerting A LOT of vertical force and the tubing will take that weight and send it straight to the floor no problem as long as it is at 90 degrees. The reason for the gussets is for prevent a lateral force from bending something or breaking a weld and turning your stand into a folded box.

As shown by pnguy3n it doesn't require much material. Your welder friend probably has something laying around you can use, if not question his welding skills/equipment.

I'm not saying that your stand won't work as-is but why take the chance.
 
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#20
I appreciate all the help! The friend builds roll cages for sports/racing cars so I hope he may have some gussets around. I understand the use of them and ideally wanted to have them put on but found that the steel manufacturer wanted WAY to much for them.

I should be starting the build either next week or the week after! Depends on how much time I have.
 

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