Sump Problem!

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#1
Hi guys! So I have decided to upgrade my sumpless 55. I recently got a 20L as a sump for my 55 and the thing doesn't fit through the door. I have thought about temporarily removing the center pillar/plank in order to put my sump in, then setting the pillar back up. I'm not too sure if the pillar is there for asthetics or if it's actually required. I bought the stand from a LFS, so idk if it's a supporting pillar. I noticed that the stand is kinda underbuilt (idk), but it is held up by the walls (1 inch thick planks) and two planks in the middle, the one in the back being smaller than the front. The front pillar is about 7" and the back is about 4". The question is, is it safe to remove the center pillar?
 
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#2
Anyway to remove the side "skin" and slide it in from that direction? Maybe a side you don't see that much? I'm assuming the tank is fully stocked and running right now?
 
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#4
looks like you have room in the back, if the tank is not setup that might be the way to go. There is a stand building thread over at RC under RocketEngineer where he lays out sizes, thickness, etc based on tank size and weight. I'm thinking if you pull the center post out you might have a rough time getting it back in and having it look ok.
 
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#5
i have roughly 2 inches more room in the back height and 3 inches more width, but I dont think thatll be enough to squeeze in the 20l. problem is, it's already set up!
 
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#8
I'm sorry, but I'm a newb, so could someone please explain to me what y'all are referring to as the "skin" ? do you mean the black plastic bracing on the 20L?
 

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#9
I'm sorry, but I'm a newb, so could someone please explain to me what y'all are referring to as the "skin" ? do you mean the black plastic bracing on the 20L?
The skin means the plywood on the side of the stand. If you can see the screws u can unscrew it.
 
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#13
I'll resort to temporarily removing the center support as a last resort.. Don't want anything bad happening. Nope. Everything is sealed together with glue. Nothing is screwed together... I checked the skin and everything.. At this rate I'll prob resort to either a dual 10g sump, removing center brace, or doing remote sump...
 
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#14
Any chance you can remove the side skin and then just buy a new piece of wood and stain to match then replace? Sawing out the center brace and replacing it would look terrible if you didn't know what you were doing and the side replacement should be an easy DIY project. If it's paint just take to Home Depot to match paint (they also match stain)!
 
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#15
I doubt it... the stand has a rim that is glued over the skin, bottom and top.. So i have to break apart my entire stand to remove 1 side.
 
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#17
try this..if you were to place a 2x4 on each side next the to each door that should be enough support for you to be able to remove the center support. make sure your tank will fit through the opening with the supports on both ends before considering that route. hopefully that makes sense.
 
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#18
Do yourself a big favor and go somewhere cheap like Fujimoto Aquariums and have them make you a class sump that will fit in there without taking anything apart. It should only run you about $50 for something that size. In the long term getting something you can take out of there without trouble is worth the $50 I promise. I would suggest making a mockup out of a cardboard box to make sure what you are ordering fits in there before you order it. Good luck.
 
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#20
Looks like a solid pine stand. So its not underbuilt. I wouldn't remove the front but woukd the back. The back is usually made so you can remove it. Look for some angled toe screws. The front is probably stuck solid. That piece will help prevent the stand from falling sideways like a domino. And if you're going to put a sump I'd put a Thin piece of wood or panel back there as well to prevent water splashing on your wall. The bubbles rising and popping will cause a mess over time.
 
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