Sump Problems

[orangefish]

So I bought a great used set up a couple weeks ago. The stand was trashed and I had to get a new one built and stained and transfer everything over. So I go and set everything up and it all works, no leaks. So great right? Not :hmpf: I can't get the water levels in the sump to balance themselves out. Too much in the return side and it drains the other, so I adjust a little and then there is the opposite problem... I think the valve may not just adjust enough but I can't solve the problem for the life of me. I need a magic trick!!!! I am pulling out my hair!

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Its a 60g DT and a 30g sump with an Aqua C skimmer that well could skim sea world (ok maybe not sea world but I think its rated for like up to 500g)

 

[Raskal311]

picture of the sump?

 

[orangefish]

Yeah in a few....I bought the 80 pounds of sand last night

 

[MadMax]

Sounds like either:
A) baffle height was designed poorly, or
B) you are running the sump flow direction in reverse to it's intended design.

Assuming A) is the culprit...
simply go a local fish store and purshase a few feet of plastic molding for the back of a glass tank lid (the plastic strip that allows for cutting access holes, etc, on top of the tank)

Cut that plastic to the same length as your baffles and experiment by attaching to the top of one baffle after another. In other words, the strip acts as an "extention" for your baffles.



Incidentilly, this is a handy method for people who'd like to add a few gallons extra water capacity to their sumps without doing anything permanent to their baffles. The molding simply slides on and off the top of your baffle(s)

Class dismissed

 

[orangefish]

 

[orangefish]

Sounds like either:
A) baffle height was designed poorly, or
B) you are running the sump flow direction in reverse to it's intended design.

Assuming A) is the culprit...
simply go a local fish store and purshase a few feet of plastic molding for the back of a glass tank lid (the plastic strip that allows for cutting access holes, etc, on top of the tank)

Cut that plastic to the same length as your baffles and experiment by attaching to the top of one baffle after another. In other words, the strip acts as an "extention" for your baffles.



Incidentilly, this is a handy method for people who'd like to add a few gallons extra water capacity to their sumps without doing anything permanent to their baffles. The molding simply slides on and off the top of your baffle(s)

Class dismissed

(It's running the right way) I thought that.... But it seems to be that I can't get the rate of water transfer from the skimmer back into the next chamber, I think it may be too high actually. If I increase the flow of the pump that supplies the skimmer it drains the return chamber from the tank and overfills the return-to-tank side, so I turn it down a little and I get too much water in the tank return and not enough in the return-to-tank chamber if that helps. My husband and I are going to try and change out the valve to see if we can't get a better flow adjustment into the skimmer

 

[MadMax]

I think you may be forgetting,
as you turn up the pump, you must add more water to compensate.

You have to adjust different water "volumes" to create a balance, not just pump pressure.

 

[Raskal311]

I can't really tell but does the two far right baffles go all the way to the bottom?

 

[orangefish]

Hey guys thanks for the input but I figured it out. I guess all the plumbing and sanding and staining made me delirious. Really to embarrasing to even say or admit. Everything is good and the tank looks awesome now. Few more days and everyone will be moving to their new home!