The Return of the ICH!

GoBigGuy

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#1
Hello All,

I have a 90 gal Seaclear system II tank with a small blue tang, two clowns, two firefish, two purple firefish and a royal gramma. I have a couple of shrimp, hermit crabs, snails and 1/3 filled with live rock and the other 2/3 with base rock.

When we first got our blue tang everything looked great and then 12 hours later we noticed he had ich. I raised the temp, lowered the salinity, and used ick attack for a couple of weeks and we thought we had knocked it out.

When I came home from work tonight I noticed the gramma was breathing hard and a couple of the firefish were bouncing off the gravel. After closer look noticed the blue tang had a bunch of white spots :(

Now my wife is ready to kill me because she knows I'll need to spend more money or we will end up loosing fish.

Here are some things I am thinking:

A) bring my shrimp, snails, and hermit crabs to my LFS and just treat with copper and be done with the ich and just do fish only

B) buy a cheap 20gal tank and a cheap filter and moved the fish in there and treat with copper leaving the shrimp, snails and LR in the tank for a couple of months until the ich dies off

C) curl in a ball and cry

What do you think I should do?
 
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#2
Are the fish eating i have a recepi that adrock sold me i could give u some but the fish must be eating
 
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#3
It's can Deff be very frustrating. Sorry that your going though this. From what I hear adrock sells a great reef safe concoction. I'd use that and just hope your hippo and all your fish pull through. A lot of the time they do. feed well and hope for the best. In my opinion catching moving and all that can just make it worse. If you do that and they pull through wait 2-3 months and you should be good. Feel free to pm me fibrous have any questions. Of corse that's just what I would do I'm sure there are others that would go about it differently. This also is cheaper on the wallet making your wife happier:)
 

GoBigGuy

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All fish are eating except for maybe the royal gramma. Does the recipe really work? I don't plan on doing any more than fish, LR, and a CUC. Do you think it would just be easier to go fish only and just treat with copper?
 
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#7
All fish are eating except for maybe the royal gramma. Does the recipe really work? I don't plan on doing any more than fish, LR, and a CUC. Do you think it would just be easier to go fish only and just treat with copper?
Im a dirty pirate. Saw white spots on my tank a few weeks ago when I started the recipe. Theyve disappeared and havent returned. Ive added 5 or 6 different wrasses and a clown pair since without a recurrence.

Alsoif you add copper youll never be able to add any corals or inverts.

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#11
It's all depends on how healthy the fish. QT them would be your best options. And leave your DT fallow for 90days.. If you can get your fish treated ASAP Survival rate are higher. Think pets mart having a $1 a gallon. Get a 10 or 20g with hang on filter, heater, seachem ammonia badge, and air stone. Half DT water n half salt mix, a sponge or sock from your DT and a bottle of bacteria. Let it run for a day or so throw in a pinch of food and check ammonia to see if your bacteria has colonize and self supporting. Then you can move the fish over. Let them settle in for a day or so, then start medication..
 

GoBigGuy

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#12
Thinking if setting up a QT tank and moving the fish. (Brother might have an extra tank)

Will ich die off in the tank if I just leave my LR, shrimp, snails and hermit crabs in the main tank?
 
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#13
Thinking if setting up a QT tank and moving the fish. (Brother might have an extra tank)

Will ich die off in the tank if I just leave my LR, shrimp, snails and hermit crabs in the main tank?
Ich will die off. It needs a fish to host and continue its life cycle.


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jason142

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#14
I just went through all of this. Removed all of my fish and started a 120 qt tank because of the size and amount of fish that I have. I left my display fallow for a little over 14 weeks, recommended is 6 to 8 weeks but the longer you can go the better. The only issue with this as that now any livestock that you add needs to be qt'd because and little amount of water from a system that might have ich could possibly reintroduce it back into your system. After losing as many fish that I did, most of which lived in my system with ich for a few years, I will never introduce another fish or coral into my system with a strict qt process. I like most on here was a firm believer that if they are healthy enough to fight it off then why bother, well, after losing close to a grand in fish in a couple of weeks I no longer believe that. Once ich is in your system it is there, regardless if the fish are showing symptoms or not. I tried everything including the cocktail of metro, focus, and garlic but the only thing that completely rid my system of ich was the fallow period and treating my fish with cupramine in the qt tank. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

reefes pieces

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#16
Since ur on a budget go with the biggest QT tank u can fit n afford. More mechanical filtration the better but all u really need is a heater and some sort of flow. If u have floss or a sock from ur DT u can use that for bio filtration. Always have some saltwater at the ready for emergency water change.
 

seawitch1

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#18
There's a method called "tank transfer". Its not so difficult and it WILL eradicate Ich. You need to start a new tank so it can be in the process of cycling while your fish are in hospital tank and your display tank is fallow. The fallow period last a few months but its better than watching your fish suffer. For those that ALWAYS have something negative to say..."don't knock it till you've tried it"! Doesn't cost much. Just the salt and cost of a small hospital tank. My advice is to check it out.
There mayyyyyy be a sticky on it on a different site. Good luck!
 
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#19
There's a method called "tank transfer". Its not so difficult and it WILL eradicate Ich. You need to start a new tank so it can be in the process of cycling while your fish are in hospital tank and your display tank is fallow. The fallow period last a few months but its better than watching your fish suffer. For those that ALWAYS have something negative to say..."don't knock it till you've tried it"! Doesn't cost much. Just the salt and cost of a small hospital tank. My advice is to check it out.
There mayyyyyy be a sticky on it on a different site. Good luck!
Its easy. You setup QT tank1 and leave the fish there for 3 days. Then you setup QT tank 2 after 2 days. On day 3 you move the fish into QT tank 2 (say 7am)

Completely drain AND dry qT tank 1, then repeat the steps. However you must move the fish betweem tanks at the same time. Theory behind that is that the ich falls off before daylight or something to that effect. You complete the transfer for a total of 7 switches, if memory serves me correctly

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#20
I've treated ich with Hikari Ich X reefer safe quite a few times and has always worked for me. The only thing it ever killed was a mandarin, they don't tolerate it. I would definitely get a bottle, inexpensive and very effective. FYI, raising the temp in sw speeds up ich. It's opposite of fw.
 
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