UNS 90L

ricecry

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#25
redid the scape to get rid of the deadspots, put the CSB back in and tested for the first time in 2 weeks, mag and calcium a little low for me, but not too sure about the ideal parameters for mixed reef
image_2025-03-11_004504411.png
 

ricecry

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#26
also picked up a malaysian sungod torch at OC coral show yesterday and some unnamed zoas
CSB is doing stuff
ran into a problem yesterday: ran out of glue, thats why some stuff is on the sandbed like the torch and some others
 

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drexel

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#29
redid the scape to get rid of the deadspots, put the CSB back in and tested for the first time in 2 weeks, mag and calcium a little low for me, but not too sure about the ideal parameters for mixed reef View attachment 123940
Nutrients are a little high, but everything seems within range. What are you doing for nutrient export?
 

drexel

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#31
No skimmer? Maybe you can dose live phytoplakton to help feed the tank and reduce some nutrients in the process.
 

ricecry

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#32
No skimmer? Maybe you can dose live phytoplakton to help feed the tank and reduce some nutrients in the process.
no skimmer i was thinking about it but i saw the price tag and the tank was doing alright already haha, i dose phyto sometimes i forgot those help oops
 

ricecry

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#36
I knew one of my ai primes had a burnt UV, but when I was testing it today it also had a burnt out violet. I was using uv, violet, royal, and blue in my schedule, so half my tank was only getting royal and blue.

At the OC coral show, I was talking to volcano corals and djrice69 about lighting and I learned that UV was really important for coloration.

So I had another prime that I was keeping for parts since some parts didn't work (like the fan), but this puck didn't have working royals leds.
There was one royal bulb that blew, making it so that the other royals werent working, so I replaced the puck in my prime with that one.

I grinded down the burnt one a little with a screwdriver. I used what materials I had on hand and put some aluminum foil on it, used some tweezers and a chopstick to compress it until it completed the circuit, and I held it in place with superglue.
It's working so far (about 30 minutes), but im not sure how long it'll last or if this is even safe. Testing it right now with just the royals on, doing fine so far. Gonna look into getting a new light if this doesn't work

this is really scuffed, landlord special
 

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dansyr

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#37
I knew one of my ai primes had a burnt UV, but when I was testing it today it also had a burnt out violet. I was using uv, violet, royal, and blue in my schedule, so half my tank was only getting royal and blue.

At the OC coral show, I was talking to volcano corals and djrice69 about lighting and I learned that UV was really important for coloration.

So I had another prime that I was keeping for parts since some parts didn't work (like the fan), but this puck didn't have working royals leds.
There was one royal bulb that blew, making it so that the other royals werent working, so I replaced the puck in my prime with that one.

I grinded down the burnt one a little with a screwdriver. I used what materials I had on hand and put some aluminum foil on it, used some tweezers and a chopstick to compress it until it completed the circuit, and I held it in place with superglue.
It's working so far (about 30 minutes), but im not sure how long it'll last or if this is even safe. Testing it right now with just the royals on, doing fine so far. Gonna look into getting a new light if this doesn't work

this is really scuffed, landlord special
Love the DIY!

Be careful though, you should confirm the type of driver used (i know nothing about primes, full disclaimer). It's probably fine because most drivers are meant to balance this kind of issue - leds prefer a constant current (amps), and all in that circuit see the same current, regardless of adding / removing LEDs.

However there are other drivers that are constant voltage that also work (and sometimes cheaper), but these REALLY care about the number of LEDs on the string because let's say you had 12V / 4 LEDs = 3 V per LED. Easy. But if you have -1 LED but driver is putting out the same voltage, each LED will be running a higher share of the voltage, 4V in this case, which translates to more heat. Ideally they just blow and break the circuit if they fail, but now you have more heat so you have possibility of heat-related issues before failing. Not saying it's a fire hazard, but....fire possibility?

Don't get me wrong I've DIYd LEDs and done janky stuff and love hacks, but just make sure that driver's safe with the type of jank its subjected to :)
 

ricecry

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#38
D
Love the DIY!

Be careful though, you should confirm the type of driver used (i know nothing about primes, full disclaimer). It's probably fine because most drivers are meant to balance this kind of issue - leds prefer a constant current (amps), and all in that circuit see the same current, regardless of adding / removing LEDs.

However there are other drivers that are constant voltage that also work (and sometimes cheaper), but these REALLY care about the number of LEDs on the string because let's say you had 12V / 4 LEDs = 3 V per LED. Easy. But if you have -1 LED but driver is putting out the same voltage, each LED will be running a higher share of the voltage, 4V in this case, which translates to more heat. Ideally they just blow and break the circuit if they fail, but now you have more heat so you have possibility of heat-related issues before failing. Not saying it's a fire hazard, but....fire possibility?

Don't get me wrong I've DIYd LEDs and done janky stuff and love hacks, but just make sure that driver's safe with the type of jank its subjected to :)
For sure, I'll make sure to check, don't want my house going up in flames haha
Thank you
 

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