Weigh in on my plumbing options ?

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#3
Option 3: herbie drain
1.5 main drain
1 emergency drain
1 return, reduce to 3/4 inside overflow, split with hose barb "Y" to your nozzle.
 
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#4
Why an emergency drain? In case something clogs the Maggie muffler on top of drain pipe?
Think I'll want to minimize the replumbing where I can and stuck with dual returns tho. This project is getting a life of its own already lol


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xmas_one

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#5
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#6
If I do the split drain, should I stay with the 1.5" or reduce it at the T to maybe 1 or 1.25 because it's being split? Or will having the ball valve on the fuge side make that a mute point?


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Spinner

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#7
I always like to have 12" +- of straight pipe coming out of pump before entering a manifold giving the pump time to balance its output. If you run your return as a single run then split at top back of tank using sweeps then size down at DT inlet's you then have created a kind of accelerator effect without putting a lot of back pressure on your pump. Too returning some flow from DT drain to refugium also will give water moment and nutrient feeding as a option using valve/valve's:)
 
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#9
I'm playing around with both.. Here is option 1

( using the old drain bulkhead for mockup , and of course will lengthen the drop pipe in the left side into the sump)
Used a union after the bulkhead, and another in one side of the split to make removal easier. Just in case..


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#10
Will have more than a foot of drop tube from the Y into the return pump :)


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#11
I like option #2. If you want to have the fuge as in option #1, I think you need to somehow reduce the splash/water drop pressure to the fuge. I use a sock and cut a hole on the side for my case
 
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#15
I have it offset from the center only because id rather have clearer access to the center return section and there is a wide center brace in the middle of the tank stand face ( between the doors)
Will that cause me any issue with noise etc.. Having the longer stretch go to skimmer and shorter side to the fuge ( dialed back with the ball valve)?

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