What is the best way to reduce phosphates

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#1
I need advise how to reduce phosphate ASAP without the use of a GFO. My phos is .25 n nitrites are .00. Ak is - 9 n dealing with cyano . I'm thinking phoaguard, chrmi-pure, brightwell phos e, I have reduce nitrites with Red Sea no3, po4 X but phos can't go down I've reduce feeding.


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#3
I have the exact same problem. Same .25 reading. Except i dont seem to be having a huge algea problem besides typical algea on the glass that i have to clean every 3 days and a light brown algea taking over my zoas, not sure if that is why they are shinking and dying. I was debating on doing phosban and carbon in the sump and adding cheato. Been doing a bit of research on it today and thinking it wont hurt to try.

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#5
I have the exact same problem. Same .25 reading. Except i dont seem to be having a huge algea problem besides typical algea on the glass that i have to clean every 3 days and a light brown algea taking over my zoas, not sure if that is why they are shinking and dying. I was debating on doing phosban and carbon in the sump and adding cheato. Been doing a bit of research on it today and thinking it wont hurt to try.

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Same problem here some corals won't open up all the way. Let me know what you do n what are you trying. Good luck man
 

jessesoto33

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#8
Would NPX bio plastics work?
I wouldnt chance neither, NoPoX has to be used as if you where dosing vodka, start very slow and work your way up very slowly, if you havnt used it then do your math.
The way I bring my nitrate or phosphate down is I do 3 water changes 10% to 20% every 3 days then test if still high, then wait 7 to 10 days abd repeat until stable. It works for me every time
 
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#9
I wouldnt chance neither, NoPoX has to be used as if you where dosing vodka, start very slow and work your way up very slowly, if you havnt used it then do your math.
The way I bring my nitrate or phosphate down is I do 3 water changes 10% to 20% every 3 days then test if still high, then wait 7 to 10 days abd repeat until stable. It works for me every time
I been using nopox to reduce my nitrate to 0 but phos won't budge. I been using media reactor with bio pellets. First time using media reactor so I'm a newb

I think their might be food in overflow box n gonna clean it tomorrow n do what changes.

Quick question is it better to premix water days before water change or mix water that same day?

Will high phos affect my softies not extending all the way out. Sorry for the 21 questions lol thanks for taking your time jess!
 

Fon

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#10
The cheapest way to lower your phosphate is to throw a bag of phosguard or GFO in the sump, high flow area or in an overflow box if you have one. I used women's pantyhose as filter media bag with GFO in it. It has effectively lowered my phosphate from .19 to 0.03 in 2 weeks. Remember, sudden drop in phosphate may shock your corals. So, do it slowly if possible.
 
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#11
I been using nopox to reduce my nitrate to 0 but phos won't budge. I been using media reactor with bio pellets. First time using media reactor so I'm a newb

I think their might be food in overflow box n gonna clean it tomorrow n do what changes.

Quick question is it better to premix water days before water change or mix water that same day?

Will high phos affect my softies not extending all the way out. Sorry for the 21 questions lol thanks for taking your time jess!
Help me understand. Your using nopox and bio pellets?
 
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#12
Help me understand. Your using nopox and bio pellets?
I was using bio pellets but didn't see it working with nitrates n phos so I removed it n used Red Sea NoPoX n i did see my nitrates drop to 0 from 10. Both claim to reduce No3 n Po4.

Would using reactor n NoPoX at the same work better or is it an overload?

Sorry again I'm kinda rusty been out the game for a while
 
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#13
I was using bio pellets but didn't see it working with nitrates n phos so I removed it n used Red Sea NoPoX n i did see my nitrates drop to 0 from 10. Both claim to reduce No3 n Po4.

Would using reactor n NoPoX at the same work better or is it an overload?

Sorry again I'm kinda rusty been out the game for a while
Nopox and bio pellets are carbon dosing. Either one is fine. But do not use them at the same time. I use bio pellets in my 180. I'm using 1/3 of a cup in a recirculating reactor. You don't want to completely eliminate Phosephate and nitrate. The goal is to keep them at a manageable level. The bacteria only consumes N03 and P04 at a 16 to 1 ratio. You all three present. Carbon source, No3, and P04 for the bacteria to do its job.
 
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#14
Nopox and bio pellets are carbon dosing. Either one is fine. But do not use them at the same time. I use bio pellets in my 180. I'm using 1/3 of a cup in a recirculating reactor. You don't want to completely eliminate Phosephate and nitrate. The goal is to keep them at a manageable level. The bacteria only consumes N03 and P04 at a 16 to 1 ratio. You all three present. Carbon source, No3, and P04 for the bacteria to do its job.
Agreed. Doesn't matter if you use biopellets or nopox, if you have zero nitrates, phosphate will not go down.
 

Smite

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#15
How longs the tank been set up? Is it heavily stocked? Nutrients aren't something you want to strip to quickly, you can do way more bad then good rushing it.

I'd start with frequent 10-20% water changes. Clean the sump and overflow box. Make sure the flows adequate and there are no dead spots in the display. This should bring things down nice and steady over time.

Ive never cared for GFO. Most likely a user error on my part but for me a refugium was pretty much full proof and very a consistent means of nutrient export.
 
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#16
How longs the tank been set up? Is it heavily stocked? Nutrients aren't something you want to strip to quickly, you can do way more bad then good rushing it.

I'd start with frequent 10-20% water changes. Clean the sump and overflow box. Make sure the flows adequate and there are no dead spots in the display. This should bring things down nice and steady over time.

Ive never cared for GFO. Most likely a user error on my part but for me a refugium was pretty much full proof and very a consistent means of nutrient export.
Tank is been up 15 weeks, two clowns, chromis, six line, diamond back goby. Not to stocked with a lot of corals. 1 25 head frogspawn, acro mini colony, mushrooms, some zoas n montipora. I only have one MP10 n working on getting another pump for other side of my tank.
 
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#17
Phosphate Rx is a good temporary solution, you can lower phosphates by 0.5 per day per the instructions, however if you're phosphates are high you may want to lower them over a longer period so you don't shock your system. You should keep an eye on your alk as well. I've used this product several times and haven't had any issues with it.
 
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#20
To reduce phosphates some reefers actually use carbon dosing ( i use vinegar) and they dose nitrates if the nitrates are actually limiting factor ( i think they add potassium nitrate) but if you've been in a hobby for 15 weeks id suggest going online and just buying some GFO, To save money some people recharge GFO but the process is kind of hazardous. Also there is a latnum-chloride which is a liquid phosphate its cheaper than GFO but i think you have to have a special reactor for it , otherwise it binds to your rock and has some other side effects. Basically GFO or Rowaphos is your best bet IMO.
 

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