Which Pellets?

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#22
Thanks Bean, yeah the outtake from the reactor will be right at the skimmer intake.

I've heard of people using kalk in their topoff before, how exactly does that work?
Oh its really complicated haha you add 1 to 2 teaspoons of kalk to per 1 gallon of RODI. You have to be careful though if you have periods of increased evaporation... I sort of adjust that accordingly. Helps to maintain cal and alk but not really raise it to a great extent.

It is messy and does cloud the tank for a bit so it has its disadvantages as well. I try to clean out the kalk sludge in the resevoire here and there as it tends to concentrate even if circulating with a powerhead.
 
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#23
All of them but I was also running a 120w LED over a relatively small tank so that may have been the bigger shock to the system than the increased water clarity.

Most of the polyps and a couple chalices survived, the SPS not so much.
 
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#24
Hmm I run my fuge light 24/7 and have chaeto. It grows, but has definitely slowed the last few months but I've been running the light this way for a while now. I attributed the lack of growth to low phosphates and nitrates in my aquarium. I also use kalk in my top off and have heard that works great at precipatating phosphates allowing them to be skimmed and removed.

I would recommend from experience if you are going to try to WM pellets is to go slow and add a little at a time. I got a crazy bloom in my tank for a week or so, than the tank was suuuuuuuper clear and bleached out all my corals.

Make sure the output is directed above the intake to your skimmer.

I'm not using the pellets on this tank.

Good luck.
I only recently started running chaeto but my research told me chaeto needs a dark period to respire in the light. Caulerpa is recommended 24/7 to prevent it from going "sexual".



http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-10/rhf/index.php#13

"Interestingly, three marine microalgae, Skeletonema costatum, Phaeocystis globosa and Emiliania huxleyi,24 were studied for their rates of photosynthesis and carbon uptake mechanisms in continuous light vs. those same species in light/dark cycles (12 h on/12 h off and 16 h on/8 h off). The rates of photosynthesis were nearly twice as high with light/dark cycles as with continuous lighting. In two of the species (S. costatum and E. huxleyi), but not the third, the contribution of bicarbonate to the total carbon uptake increased dramatically in light/dark cycles compared to continuous light.

How this result might relate to growth and nutrient uptake in lit refugia where macroalgae are often grown to export nutrients is not known. However, it is a sign that perhaps continuous light is not optimal, in addition to being more expensive."
 
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#25
I only recently started running chaeto but my research told me chaeto needs a dark period to respire in the light. Caulerpa is recommended 24/7 to prevent it from going "sexual".



http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-10/rhf/index.php#13

"Interestingly, three marine microalgae, Skeletonema costatum, Phaeocystis globosa and Emiliania huxleyi,24 were studied for their rates of photosynthesis and carbon uptake mechanisms in continuous light vs. those same species in light/dark cycles (12 h on/12 h off and 16 h on/8 h off). The rates of photosynthesis were nearly twice as high with light/dark cycles as with continuous lighting. In two of the species (S. costatum and E. huxleyi), but not the third, the contribution of bicarbonate to the total carbon uptake increased dramatically in light/dark cycles compared to continuous light.

How this result might relate to growth and nutrient uptake in lit refugia where macroalgae are often grown to export nutrients is not known. However, it is a sign that perhaps continuous light is not optimal, in addition to being more expensive."
Than I have a slight predicament... I have both chaeto and caulerpa.... hmmmmmmmmmmmmm :fencing:
 
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#26
Oh its really complicated haha you add 1 to 2 teaspoons of kalk to per 1 gallon of RODI. You have to be careful though if you have periods of increased evaporation... I sort of adjust that accordingly. Helps to maintain cal and alk but not really raise it to a great extent.

It is messy and does cloud the tank for a bit so it has its disadvantages as well. I try to clean out the kalk sludge in the resevoire here and there as it tends to concentrate even if circulating with a powerhead.
Don't worry about cleaning out the kalkwasser at the bottom. The ro/di will saturate itself with as much kalkwasser as it can and the rest will settle at the bottom. After I refill my resevior again i turn on the powerhead to mix it up and the rest which settled at the bottom is now saturated into the new refilled water. The "impurities" that settle at the bottom are nothing to worry about also, they'll settle again at the bottom after its been mixed up. I clean out my resevior once every 3 months.
 
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#28
Oh its really complicated haha you add 1 to 2 teaspoons of kalk to per 1 gallon of RODI. You have to be careful though if you have periods of increased evaporation... I sort of adjust that accordingly. Helps to maintain cal and alk but not really raise it to a great extent.

It is messy and does cloud the tank for a bit so it has its disadvantages as well. I try to clean out the kalk sludge in the resevoire here and there as it tends to concentrate even if circulating with a powerhead.
1 to 1 teaspoons for 1 gallon of ro/di, really? Ok, another thing to pick up at Tom's tomorrow. Good thing you flaked today Ramzy or I would have had to make 2 trips... LOL JK
 
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#29
Don't worry about cleaning out the kalkwasser at the bottom. The ro/di will saturate itself with as much kalkwasser as it can and the rest will settle at the bottom. After I refill my resevior again i turn on the powerhead to mix it up and the rest which settled at the bottom is now saturated into the new refilled water. The "impurities" that settle at the bottom are nothing to worry about also, they'll settle again at the bottom after its been mixed up. I clean out my resevior once every 3 months.
Sometimes I'll get little white floaters in the display if it gets down to low... so whats up with that? Anything to worry about?
 
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#30
1 to 1 teaspoons for 1 gallon of ro/di, really? Ok, another thing to pick up at Tom's tomorrow. Good thing you flaked today Ramzy or I would have had to make 2 trips... LOL JK
You can use Mrs. Wages Pickling Lime if you want as well.

Calcium Hydroxide is what it is. I use the BRS stuff. Its like 20 bucks for a small bucket that will last you FOOOOOOORRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEVVVVVVVVEEEEEER.
 
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#31
Oh its really complicated haha you add 1 to 2 teaspoons of kalk to per 1 gallon of RODI. You have to be careful though if you have periods of increased evaporation... I sort of adjust that accordingly. Helps to maintain cal and alk but not really raise it to a great extent.

It is messy and does cloud the tank for a bit so it has its disadvantages as well. I try to clean out the kalk sludge in the resevoire here and there as it tends to concentrate even if circulating with a powerhead.
Forgot to mention but don't continue to mix the kalkwasser in the ro/di. Mix it for 15 minutes after adding the powder to the ro/di then leave it alone. If you continue having it mixed you'll be adding an unabsorbed kalk slurry to the tank and then you'll get that white cloud in the tank. Ive experienced this the hard way lol.


Another negative of keeping it mixing or mixing it too long is that the kalkwasser water will actually lower its own pH. As it is exposed to air it will absorb co2 and lower its overal pH. I learned this from Randy H. Farley, I'm not trying to sound smart, just regurgitating information LOL



Sorry Dave for taking your thread off topic. :laugh:
 
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#33
You can use Mrs. Wages Pickling Lime if you want as well.

Calcium Hydroxide is what it is. I use the BRS stuff. Its like 20 bucks for a small bucket that will last you FOOOOOOORRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEVVVVVVVVEEEEEER.
Yeah Tom has that...

Forgot to mention but don't continue to mix the kalkwasser in the ro/di. Mix it for 15 minutes after adding the powder to the ro/di then leave it alone. If you continue having it mixed you'll be adding an unabsorbed kalk slurry to the tank and then you'll get that white cloud in the tank. Ive experienced this the hard way lol.


Another negative of keeping it mixing or mixing it too long is that the kalkwasser water will actually lower its own pH. As it is exposed to air it will absorb co2 and lower its overal pH. I learned this from Randy H. Farley, I'm not trying to sound smart, just regurgitating information LOL



Sorry Dave for taking your thread off topic. :laugh:
Thanks for that info as I would have.

And I'm used to it... HAHAHA
 
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#34
Forgot to mention but don't continue to mix the kalkwasser in the ro/di. Mix it for 15 minutes after adding the powder to the ro/di then leave it alone. If you continue having it mixed you'll be adding an unabsorbed kalk slurry to the tank and then you'll get that white cloud in the tank. Ive experienced this the hard way lol.


Another negative of keeping it mixing or mixing it too long is that the kalkwasser water will actually lower its own pH. As it is exposed to air it will absorb co2 and lower its overal pH. I learned this from Randy H. Farley, I'm not trying to sound smart, just regurgitating information LOL



Sorry Dave for taking your thread off topic. :laugh:
What happens when this occurs? I will take the powerhead out of the resevoire immediately.

Yeah sorry Dave haha
 
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#35
Ok, here is my plan. I have a 40 gallon topoff reservior that I refill when needed with 5 gallon buckets. So if I mix the kalk in the 5 gallon buckets til dissolved, will I need to re mix at some point in the 40 gallon reservoir? If so how often?

And what are the benefits I should expect from this? Thanks Dave

And I am the king of OT, so derail all you like... HAHA
 
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