Jesse's LeeMar Rimless 100g build
- Thread starter Tangwich
- Start date
Next shout out goes to my boy Jeffrey Lam, aka JeffreyLam here on SCR. lol. Gave me some good info and a great visual on building my manifold that I will use off my return pump to feed reactors and whatever else I may need in the future.
The Mock up
Glued, looking all nice and pretty like the dirty little whore that she is...oh wait,....sorry, got a little carried away.
Lastly, my return plumbing was a PIA to get all figured out and then to glue, but the key trick really is using as many true unions as possible for modulariririty. I can break down the plumbing easily to be able to do maintenance on any part of the overflow AND return as well as my return pump.
Here's how that turned out. I'm pretty pleased with how it all finally came together.
Baby's Got Back
Finally..........FULL FRONTAL NUDITY
The Mock up
Glued, looking all nice and pretty like the dirty little whore that she is...oh wait,....sorry, got a little carried away.
Lastly, my return plumbing was a PIA to get all figured out and then to glue, but the key trick really is using as many true unions as possible for modulariririty. I can break down the plumbing easily to be able to do maintenance on any part of the overflow AND return as well as my return pump.
Here's how that turned out. I'm pretty pleased with how it all finally came together.
Baby's Got Back
Finally..........FULL FRONTAL NUDITY
Jesse, I also notice that you have your check valve after the manifold. With this design, your check valve is not going to stop the water from draining from your display because it's going to drain from the manifold. Just make sure your sump can hold all the water that's going to be drain from your display tank when you lose power.
thanks josef and jeffrey. i actually supported the manifold with a piece of strap bracing but that was after i took the picture.
also, i put a lot of planning into this system and wanted a few fail safes in place with regards to back syphoning water if power goes out or even after i shut off the return pump for maintenance. i went with a george fisher wye check valve http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/george-fisher-wye-check-valve-1.html and even if for some reason it were to fail as many people say all check valves fail at some point, my sump can hold all water that drains until the syphon breaks once air gets into my return locline. so my placement of parts is return pump followed by a true union and on top of that is the check valve. you can barely see it sticking out in the pic bottom right hand of my sump. wow, write a lot (punching self in face)
also, i put a lot of planning into this system and wanted a few fail safes in place with regards to back syphoning water if power goes out or even after i shut off the return pump for maintenance. i went with a george fisher wye check valve http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/george-fisher-wye-check-valve-1.html and even if for some reason it were to fail as many people say all check valves fail at some point, my sump can hold all water that drains until the syphon breaks once air gets into my return locline. so my placement of parts is return pump followed by a true union and on top of that is the check valve. you can barely see it sticking out in the pic bottom right hand of my sump. wow, write a lot (punching self in face)
ah yes, now i understand what jeffrey was trying to explain and you're both right. that was a dummy oversight on my part but that's why when texting with jose casas, aka the profe aka the maestro, yesterday i told him that even though a build thread is a lot of maintenance but i really like the fact that not only lurkers learn from them, but even the person documenting the thread can get different perspectives on things and this is definitely an oversight on my part. good call nick. i really don't want to redo my return plumbing since i'm quite pleased with how it is now. the good thing about my tank is that leemar made my overflow and return bulkhead approx 2 inches from the top and i'll just point the locline nozzle at an angle so that as soon as the pump shuts off, the nozzle will pull air and break the syphon.
and the road blocks continue. while running my leak test. i noticed that the water level is uneven in my tank. then i looked down at my sump and same thing. uneven water level. that leads me to believe that my floor is uneven. water level is approx half an inch higher on left side than it is on the right side. how will that affect the tank? and any ideas on leveling?
Thanks alot for putting me on blast ahahhaahahhahahahah Here is one to redeem my self.....To level the tank simply just use the wooden shims they sell at Lowes on the side/s that need leveling. They are made out of soft wood and break off very easily. Btw you are right about the build thread it does help!
Tonight, i did work son.
Big thanks to Esteban aka Wickedfish. He recommended these Sylvannia Mosaic Led linkable lights and WOW, not only are they really bright but I have the option of changing between 16 colors.
even the brightness is controllable
lastly, good call senor profe. wood shims FTMW on a tank that sits on an uneven floor...now all is level ; )
Big thanks to Esteban aka Wickedfish. He recommended these Sylvannia Mosaic Led linkable lights and WOW, not only are they really bright but I have the option of changing between 16 colors.
even the brightness is controllable
lastly, good call senor profe. wood shims FTMW on a tank that sits on an uneven floor...now all is level ; )
To help break siphon... If you get a spray bar piece of loc line and put an air line from it in to the sump or over flow and have it just below water level so there is no noise right when the tip of the tubing is in the air and not submerged it will also break siphon. Then you can aim nozzle anywhere you would like.
thanks robert. from the beginning i had intended to keep the locline and return nozzle just barely submerged as i like the rippling surface water for oxygenation and to move the film that builds on top towards the overflow. below that, water movement will be taken care of by 2 vortechs. but what you suggested is exactly what aaron does in his tanks at sps coral store so i know that method works flawlessly.
yeah, i have vacation coming up in a couple of weeks, i'll have to redo that part of my plumbing as there's no point to having a check valve just sitting there doing nothing. thanks.
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