I would just let the diatoms run their course, my thinking with dosing silicates was in the presence of dinos, but I don't think you have to worry about them now. Ceriths do a good job with diatoms, but those baby trochus will also eat some diatoms too. If you add GFO, then you run the risk of lowering PO4 too quickly, which will lead to other issues.
Jimbo’s CDA 250
- Thread starter Jimbo327
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Start with 1//4 or 1/2 doses of both and work your way from there. I dose iron, manganese, cobalt, chromium and iodide daily, but I have lots of corals and macro algae that uses it up. After you’ve been dosing it for a while, it may be worth sending in an icp that it’s not building up.
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Let me know how it goes with that Goni. I have 1 micro "Superman" Goni that does stellar, 1 "Alien Eye" (green) Alveopora that is out of control (budding almost weekly), and 1 Blue Eyed Goni that looked great for 2 months and now hardly opens at all.
I hope that the Blue Eye comes back but if it is gonna be that much of a challange I will just replace it with something different. Only the strong survive here. If they are too finicky or picky I don't see the point in struggling to keep them. There are too many corals out there that grow well without crazy strife to focus on just 1 or 2 that don't. I like to focus on the many not the few.
If I have 30-40 corals doing well and 1 new one doesn't like my tank or parameters he can kick rocks lol.
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I hope that the Blue Eye comes back but if it is gonna be that much of a challange I will just replace it with something different. Only the strong survive here. If they are too finicky or picky I don't see the point in struggling to keep them. There are too many corals out there that grow well without crazy strife to focus on just 1 or 2 that don't. I like to focus on the many not the few.
If I have 30-40 corals doing well and 1 new one doesn't like my tank or parameters he can kick rocks lol.
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Let's pump some iron, baby! 
https://www.psu.edu/news/research/story/corals-resilience-warming-may-depend-iron/
I dosed about 10ml of Microbe-Lift chelated iron supplement and 3ml manganese sulfate solution (0.03g mixed with 250ml RODI) into the tank. Let's see in a few days if there is any improvement in the goni. Fingers crossed.
https://www.psu.edu/news/research/story/corals-resilience-warming-may-depend-iron/
I dosed about 10ml of Microbe-Lift chelated iron supplement and 3ml manganese sulfate solution (0.03g mixed with 250ml RODI) into the tank. Let's see in a few days if there is any improvement in the goni. Fingers crossed.
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I've been buying a lot of SPS frag packs from local reefers, especially those who are getting out of the hobby or breaking down their frag tanks. It's a blessing to be close to so many reefers with awesome tanks and willingness to show me their tanks. Most were very cool to chat reef, and it reminded me of the old days of just spending time to talk with people and see how they set up their tank, and learn from each of them.
Here are some of my own tips that I want to share about SPS frags (since I've been doing a lot lately):
1) If you are mounting SPS frags onto a frag plug, your best friend is the BRS Insta-Set. It usually comes with a spray bottle, but I use a needle syringe and suck up some of the Insta-Set solution. Then I use normal superglue to mount the frag, then I quickly use the syringe to add a few drops of Insta-Set directly to the connection and it sets immediately. No mess and instant. I don't use the spray because I don't want the chemical on the SPS in case there is a reaction.
2) It doesn't matter where you get the SPS frags from, you need to dip. My dipping routine is simple. I just use Dip-X (since it was free with RS blue bucket salt) or whatever dip of your choice, and blow with a turkey baster. I usually use those red Solo plastic cups to do the dip, the inside is white so easier to see. Look to see what comes off of it. If I see flatworms or bugs, then I look for eggs...I will probably toss the frag if I find any. After the coral dip, I then mix a 30/70 solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide with saltwater, and dip the base of the frag plug (not the SPS itself) to get rid of any algae for about 1 minute. Then I put the frag into my tank.
Here are some of my own tips that I want to share about SPS frags (since I've been doing a lot lately):
1) If you are mounting SPS frags onto a frag plug, your best friend is the BRS Insta-Set. It usually comes with a spray bottle, but I use a needle syringe and suck up some of the Insta-Set solution. Then I use normal superglue to mount the frag, then I quickly use the syringe to add a few drops of Insta-Set directly to the connection and it sets immediately. No mess and instant. I don't use the spray because I don't want the chemical on the SPS in case there is a reaction.
2) It doesn't matter where you get the SPS frags from, you need to dip. My dipping routine is simple. I just use Dip-X (since it was free with RS blue bucket salt) or whatever dip of your choice, and blow with a turkey baster. I usually use those red Solo plastic cups to do the dip, the inside is white so easier to see. Look to see what comes off of it. If I see flatworms or bugs, then I look for eggs...I will probably toss the frag if I find any. After the coral dip, I then mix a 30/70 solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide with saltwater, and dip the base of the frag plug (not the SPS itself) to get rid of any algae for about 1 minute. Then I put the frag into my tank.
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For past 2 days, I’ve been rock chiseling, drilling and re-scaping, as best as I could. Trying to reduce the mountain of rock look, while adding more area where I can put corals. It is still a work in progress, but I like it more than before. I realize it will never be a NSA scape because that would mean a complete tear down, and that's okay with me because I have a lot of caves and rocks for fishes to sleep/feel safe. It's funny when the lights are dimming at night, all of the fishes know their spot and they disappear into the rockscape to get ready for bed.
I created channels for fish to swim through, And the fish loves it! They are always going through it. Side view of channel:
I also made a tunnel in the rock for fish to swim through:
I’ve kept the shelf overhang for fish to stay under and swim:
I even made some rock plugs to give more height and natural look to the flat shelf rocks. I want to use the peg system that I put holes in the shelf rocks before:
I created channels for fish to swim through, And the fish loves it! They are always going through it. Side view of channel:
I also made a tunnel in the rock for fish to swim through:
I’ve kept the shelf overhang for fish to stay under and swim:
I even made some rock plugs to give more height and natural look to the flat shelf rocks. I want to use the peg system that I put holes in the shelf rocks before:
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Nitrates 0ppm
Phosphates 0.03ppm
My attempt to keep Nitrates from bottoming out again:
1) Added more sodium nitrate solution into tank to bring it up to 2-3ppm
2) Added 1 more automated feeding at 1am (while fishes are asleep)
3) Programmed APEX to turn off my skimmer for 3 hours per night starting at 1am
If this doesn't work, I'm going to have to get more fishes and feed even heavier. I'm hoping it doesn't work.
Phosphates 0.03ppm
My attempt to keep Nitrates from bottoming out again:
1) Added more sodium nitrate solution into tank to bring it up to 2-3ppm
2) Added 1 more automated feeding at 1am (while fishes are asleep)
3) Programmed APEX to turn off my skimmer for 3 hours per night starting at 1am
If this doesn't work, I'm going to have to get more fishes and feed even heavier. I'm hoping it doesn't work.
Good Tip on the ammonium. I will need to read up more on that interesting concept. I still have a small bottle of ammonium chloride from the fishless cycle.
Speaking of fish urea, I made a deal to buy a couple more fishes from a local reefer leaving the hobby. Will have to help him catch the fishes next weekend. So that will be interesting.
Speaking of fish urea, I made a deal to buy a couple more fishes from a local reefer leaving the hobby. Will have to help him catch the fishes next weekend. So that will be interesting.
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My favorite thing to do is feeding my fishes. They just go nuts. I’m feeding a mix of pellets, spirulina flakes, yeast, frozen LRS fish frenzy, frozen PE mysis, 1/2 sheet of nori, reef blizzard and calanus. I may be feeding too heavy.
All of the fishes are fat and happy.
This guy was all thin and bones when I got him. Look at him now. LOL. His belly is so full. I’m thinking he might need to go on a diet.
All of the fishes are fat and happy.
This guy was all thin and bones when I got him. Look at him now. LOL. His belly is so full. I’m thinking he might need to go on a diet.
The diatom / brown algae on the sand bed is still there. It's not getting thicker, but it's not going away either. This is a sign that the tank is still unstable.
I think it is because my nitrates have a tendency to bottom out to zero over the course of a week or two. I had dosed nitrate last week to get it off zero. And I got it up to 4.4 ppm on Tuesday. Without dosing more nitrate, and running/feeding normally...my nitrated had dropped to 2.7 on Saturday. So that's about 0.4ppm drop per day. And if trend continue, it'll bottom out in ~7 more days.
There are few things that I want to do and how I plan to achieve it:
1) Keep nitrates from bottoming out to zero
I think it is because my nitrates have a tendency to bottom out to zero over the course of a week or two. I had dosed nitrate last week to get it off zero. And I got it up to 4.4 ppm on Tuesday. Without dosing more nitrate, and running/feeding normally...my nitrated had dropped to 2.7 on Saturday. So that's about 0.4ppm drop per day. And if trend continue, it'll bottom out in ~7 more days.
There are few things that I want to do and how I plan to achieve it:
1) Keep nitrates from bottoming out to zero
- Get a couple more fishes
- Measure and dose nitrates or ammonium
- Turn off skimmer for 3 hours per night
- Keep tank parameters & major elements stable (CA, ALK, MG)
- Get coralline algae scrapings from local reefers whenever I buy frags locally
- Grow bottled bacteria (PNS, etc.)
- Add some mud to the tank (AF Life Source)
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I may be wrong but it has been my understanding that diatomes come from silicates and that they need NO3 and PO4 to thrive. I don't think that bottoming out on N03 would be the cause. Again I could be wrong but maybe look into a silicate test kit and to really nail it down an ICP test.
I also am dealing with the Diatomes. I now know that the silicates were coming through my RODI due to making too small of RODI batches. I was basically topping up the RODI tank every time I used a gallon or 2. Eventually the TDS creep had my RODI reservoir full of N03, P04, and Silicates. Then any time I did water chanhes or topped up I was making the problem worse. I now run a 3 stage DI after my RO unit and make sure to use up all of the RODI before making more.
I have since learned that it can take up to 3 months for all of the silicates to get consumed by the system. I see it as just another step in the process of the first year cycle combined with learning how to use equipment that is new to me. The Diatomes also out compete the Dinos that can bloom everytime your nutes bottom out. With that said I guess I am ok with it for now.
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I also am dealing with the Diatomes. I now know that the silicates were coming through my RODI due to making too small of RODI batches. I was basically topping up the RODI tank every time I used a gallon or 2. Eventually the TDS creep had my RODI reservoir full of N03, P04, and Silicates. Then any time I did water chanhes or topped up I was making the problem worse. I now run a 3 stage DI after my RO unit and make sure to use up all of the RODI before making more.
I have since learned that it can take up to 3 months for all of the silicates to get consumed by the system. I see it as just another step in the process of the first year cycle combined with learning how to use equipment that is new to me. The Diatomes also out compete the Dinos that can bloom everytime your nutes bottom out. With that said I guess I am ok with it for now.
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Silicates will eventually be used up as long as you're not adding more to the system than what can be used? They will go away on their own, but it will take time in a newer system that's low on biomass (corals, sponges, etc). I would feed the tank more, small meals throughout the day always works best. I love LRS, TDO pellets, Cool Green and Cool Mysis flakes from brine shrimp direct. I like PE mysis for finicky eaters, but that stuff needs to be washed/rinsed, as it's pretty gnarly and not in a good way. You can always use a siphon into a filter sock to "clean" the sand. Whenever I have to go after bubble algae, I just use a rigid tube (cut at a 45 on the business end) attached to a vinyl tube that goes into a filter sock in my sump. I just stab the bubble algae and it gets drawn up and goes right into the sock. Then I just take the sock and dump it, done. Same thing can be done with other algae and cyano. I'm sure the diatoms will come back a little, but keep doing it and you slowly remove them from the system manually. Don't forget, we are one of the most important CUC members.
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Silicates will eventually be used up as long as you're not adding more to the system than what can be used? They will go away on their own, but it will take time in a newer system that's low on biomass (corals, sponges, etc). I would feed the tank more, small meals throughout the day always works best. I love LRS, TDO pellets, Cool Green and Cool Mysis flakes from brine shrimp direct. I like PE mysis for finicky eaters, but that stuff needs to be washed/rinsed, as it's pretty gnarly and not in a good way. You can always use a siphon into a filter sock to "clean" the sand. Whenever I have to go after bubble algae, I just use a rigid tube (cut at a 45 on the business end) attached to a vinyl tube that goes into a filter sock in my sump. I just stab the bubble algae and it gets drawn up and goes right into the sock. Then I just take the sock and dump it, done. Same thing can be done with other algae and cyano. I'm sure the diatoms will come back a little, but keep doing it and you slowly remove them from the system manually. Don't forget, we are one of the most important CUC members.
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I've found that most "mysis" frozen food needs to be rinsed, some more than others. I've never used the SF brand, so I'm not sure. I only keep mysis for any picky eaters, which I don't usually have. The only frozen food I feed is LRS, mainly because I don't have to rinse it and it's packed with everything my fish (and corals) need. The other foods I like are TDO pellets (one of the best pellets out there, NLS is great too) Cool Green and Cool Mysis flake foods (hand packed flakes). If the mysis' water looks cloudy, you'll need to rinse it until it's clear regardless of brand. Apologies Jimbo, didn't mean to hijack your thread.
I don’t mind at all. I enjoy the banter. Sometimes I feel like I’m talking to myself, so I rather talk reef with others. I'm getting excited over a speck of coralline algae over here, LOL.
But I never rinse any of my food. I just dump it in. Maybe if my N or P levels are high, then I will start rinsing it. I’ve been using the frozen LRS fish frenzy. I need to stock up more on pellets and will look at TDO.
Do you guys does aminos? I’ve actually never heard of this back in the day, but looks like it is preferred by others to feed corals? For corals, I usually use reef blizzard, live phytoplankton, and will look at reef roids/phyto feast. The way I broadcast feed my corals is use a turkey master when lights are out and slow release into the tank.
But I never rinse any of my food. I just dump it in. Maybe if my N or P levels are high, then I will start rinsing it. I’ve been using the frozen LRS fish frenzy. I need to stock up more on pellets and will look at TDO.
Do you guys does aminos? I’ve actually never heard of this back in the day, but looks like it is preferred by others to feed corals? For corals, I usually use reef blizzard, live phytoplankton, and will look at reef roids/phyto feast. The way I broadcast feed my corals is use a turkey master when lights are out and slow release into the tank.
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