Jimbo’s CDA 250
- Thread starter Jimbo327
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tbh i think a nice lazy way to qt would be:
h2o2 bath, put fish in a 10g tank. dose GC/prazi. let simmer for 3 days
swap fish out into a different tank. let simmer for 2-3 days, dose GC again 24 hours prior to moving the fish. then h2o2 bath en route to your DT
this won't eliminate ich, but it should eliminate velvet and flukes. uronema and brook are possible, you could substitute formalin baths for the h2o2 baths and that'd be more likely to eliminate those. you could also dose formalin to the tanks daily. full httm would be best, but i get it, it's time consuming and all of the tanks and equipment take time to clean and what not
h2o2 bath, put fish in a 10g tank. dose GC/prazi. let simmer for 3 days
swap fish out into a different tank. let simmer for 2-3 days, dose GC again 24 hours prior to moving the fish. then h2o2 bath en route to your DT
this won't eliminate ich, but it should eliminate velvet and flukes. uronema and brook are possible, you could substitute formalin baths for the h2o2 baths and that'd be more likely to eliminate those. you could also dose formalin to the tanks daily. full httm would be best, but i get it, it's time consuming and all of the tanks and equipment take time to clean and what not
Take a look at Proto Pro. It's a very interesting product and I love the science behind it. I'm just waiting for Liveaquaria to release the saltwater version of it. I hope it is soon. I might try the freshwater version, since the active ingredient is the same, but the dosage might be different.
Yeah, I have to be honest with myself, full QT or httm just would not work for me. I barely have enough time to work on the DT now that I'm back in the office full time, there is no way I can maintain that kind of schedule for QT (and factor in multiple fishes). I will definitely screw it up and probably kill a lot of fishes.
Yeah, I have to be honest with myself, full QT or httm just would not work for me. I barely have enough time to work on the DT now that I'm back in the office full time, there is no way I can maintain that kind of schedule for QT (and factor in multiple fishes). I will definitely screw it up and probably kill a lot of fishes.
I hooked up the APEX AFS. It was so loud that I thought I got a defective motor or the previous owner sold me a lemon. But after I did some searching online, I guess that's how loud they are.
I took it apart to see if I can make it quieter, but it's a cheap piece of crap. You put any kind of load on that motor, and it is making a loud sound. Everything is loose and plastic. Very disappointing.
My solution is to just put a yellow rag over the AFS to muffle the sound, and move it to the sump.
It does dampen the sound quite a bit, but it looks super ghetto. I’m still tinkering with the PVC food chute, so the food drops only on top of the return pump.
I took it apart to see if I can make it quieter, but it's a cheap piece of crap. You put any kind of load on that motor, and it is making a loud sound. Everything is loose and plastic. Very disappointing.
My solution is to just put a yellow rag over the AFS to muffle the sound, and move it to the sump.
It does dampen the sound quite a bit, but it looks super ghetto. I’m still tinkering with the PVC food chute, so the food drops only on top of the return pump.
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I have an ATK somewhere in my pile of reef stuff. But I never set it up because I already have a Tunze ATO from my previous nano.
i usually buy my APEX gear second hand, so I can try it and if I don’t use it, I can sell it to someone else who may use it. I have a few more modules (FMM and MXM) that I have not set up yet.
i usually buy my APEX gear second hand, so I can try it and if I don’t use it, I can sell it to someone else who may use it. I have a few more modules (FMM and MXM) that I have not set up yet.
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Thanks for letting me know about the level sensor for the FMM, it is exactly what I needed! My external AA refugium/chamber scares the crap out of me because it is an overflow flood waiting to happen. I really need a high level sensor on that chamber, so I can shut off the pump before it overflows. I plan to sell the ATK as I don't have a need for it.
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If you believe you have dinos you really should join this group on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/259474048655429/?ref=share&mibextid=Qo0Uov They will help you identify what exactly you are dealing with and how to defeat it. They also explain why a black out doesn't work. Different Dinos require different treaments and if its not Dinos that you are battling then you may not beat it by using Dino fighting meathods. Uv only works to kill some types of Dinos and only if plumbed directly into the tank with its own inlet pump and returned directly to the main tank.
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I joined the group and as they have advised I have not done a black out and I am also not running UV as this will not beat my type of Dino (procentrum). I have employed their methods and I am already seeing results 2 weeks in. It is not about simply "killing" the Dinos but creating a bacterial shift in order to out compete them for turf by encouraging different bacteria to grow.
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I wont do tank transfer or anything to complicated now either. Just Saftey Stop rapid QT followed by 2 weeks copper then 2 weeks observation in a tank with a previously seeded sponge filter from my display sump. If all goes well with the QT then its 1 more Saftey Stop for good measure before going into the display. Sponge filters are cheap(3 for $12 on Amazon)so I just toss the used one rather than risk infecting my display by reuse.
I have been considering using hydroplex during my observation phase as it is milder than copper and can help the fish recover from any adverse side effects (skin or gill irritations) that the copper may have induced.
I F'ed up a tang fish doing tank transfer as the ammonia level got to high in only 2 days and resulted in HLLE.
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I have been considering using hydroplex during my observation phase as it is milder than copper and can help the fish recover from any adverse side effects (skin or gill irritations) that the copper may have induced.
I F'ed up a tang fish doing tank transfer as the ammonia level got to high in only 2 days and resulted in HLLE.
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Yes, I will also a sponge filter in my QT. I have several sponge filter cooking in my sump now.
I'm slowing building up my QT tank, and re-using all my nano gear.
I need to get out to the LFS's and find some fish. But I've been so busy with kids and work. And I have to put away all of the Halloween decorations this weekend.
I'm slowing building up my QT tank, and re-using all my nano gear.
I need to get out to the LFS's and find some fish. But I've been so busy with kids and work. And I have to put away all of the Halloween decorations this weekend.
Got a couple easy pre-QT fishes from Dooly. It was a pleasure to chat with him and check out his new business venture. Most of fishes were super skittish, and they dive into the rocks whenever I get near the tank (except the blue damsel, he's cruising the whole tank like he owns it). The royal gramma literally swam and wedged himself into the crevice between the overflow box and back of tank. Here are some photos when acclimating them. I’m also getting a re-homed mandarin goby and skunk cleaner shrimp soon. So at least there is life in the tank. But I really need some tangs.
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Mandarin Goby is one of my favorite fishes, so I put in the sand bed and have lots of pods for them to eat. I was told by the local reefer rehoming this goby that it eats flakes...I believe it because it's chunky. Also, got a huge skunk cleaner shrimp. Still need to get tangs.
I'm also trying out a new strategy on the dino. Since I don't have a lot of corals yet, I'm going to move my corals to 1 side of the tank, and only lit that part of the tank. And let the other 2/3 of the tank to be dark to starve out some of the dino. And keeping my UV on 24/7 to see if I can make a dent. Then I'm going to start dosing bacteria.
I'm also trying out a new strategy on the dino. Since I don't have a lot of corals yet, I'm going to move my corals to 1 side of the tank, and only lit that part of the tank. And let the other 2/3 of the tank to be dark to starve out some of the dino. And keeping my UV on 24/7 to see if I can make a dent. Then I'm going to start dosing bacteria.
Dinos are super efficient so it'll be interesting to see if that works. I used to swear by blackouts and they do work but only if you see something else take hold afterwards. For me it was GHA usually. But even ambient light will keep them there to a certain extent so my blackouts were contractor trash bags taped around the whole tank, display and macro lights off for 3 days. I'd always run a large amount of carbon in a reactor to combat any toxins when they die off.
The times it worked I'd usually have GHA that was probably already there and waiting for a chance to outcompete the dinos. I'll take GHA over dinos any day of the week, personally.
My UV treatment worked last time but I really oversized it like crazy and added my inlet pump into the display if I remember correctly. A few inches above the sand. So when they released to travel at night, they'd be forced through the UV filter. That did seem to work well for the strain I had. I used two of those large Jebao UV sterilizers in series. I lost some of the fittings and O-rings or I'd let you borrow them.
The times it worked I'd usually have GHA that was probably already there and waiting for a chance to outcompete the dinos. I'll take GHA over dinos any day of the week, personally.
My UV treatment worked last time but I really oversized it like crazy and added my inlet pump into the display if I remember correctly. A few inches above the sand. So when they released to travel at night, they'd be forced through the UV filter. That did seem to work well for the strain I had. I used two of those large Jebao UV sterilizers in series. I lost some of the fittings and O-rings or I'd let you borrow them.
The dino are definitely super efficient. It thrives with lights, and growing so fast that my large UV is no longer able to keep up. And the dino smell is not pleasant and just permeates the house. I talked with another experienced reefer, and he also said that the only way he was able to beat dino was lights out for multiple days while running a UV.
I definitely see way less dino on the side with the lights out. I'm still running my UV 24/7 to catch any floaters. I'm going to keep this way for another week. Then I'm going to switch sides since my corals are still on frag plugs, and I can easily move them.
With the added fish and increased feeding, I was expecting Nitrates to go higher. But I tested my nitrates today, and it has bottomed out (zero) and my alkalinity has been rising unexpectedly (seen on my trident). I ordered some sodium nitrate powder from Amazon, and I will need nitrates and phosphate much higher to get other types of algae going.
I definitely see way less dino on the side with the lights out. I'm still running my UV 24/7 to catch any floaters. I'm going to keep this way for another week. Then I'm going to switch sides since my corals are still on frag plugs, and I can easily move them.
With the added fish and increased feeding, I was expecting Nitrates to go higher. But I tested my nitrates today, and it has bottomed out (zero) and my alkalinity has been rising unexpectedly (seen on my trident). I ordered some sodium nitrate powder from Amazon, and I will need nitrates and phosphate much higher to get other types of algae going.
